Speedy

After driving the truck around for a while I noticed the transmission would hunt a bit for the right gear and the performance felt quite diminished, even with the truck being supercharged, after the larger wheels tires and lift were installed.

I decided to hit the ECT button and see if it helped and bingo. The truck is more peppy than it was with the stock tires. I'm probably the last person to figure that out as I never had cause to use it before, but I wanted to throw it out there just in case.

My MPGs have gone down by 2 since doing all this as well. I was getting 18-20MPG and I now get 15 - 18.

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of PM'ing you to see if you noticed a change, as I have as well. The increased ethanol content in our fuels is reducing mileage and it also wears out O2 sensors quicker. Because my mileage is down and my O2 sensor was original, I decided to replace it last week. I found OEM Denso O2 sensors available from Amazon for $57. I changed it out a few days ago but won't know if anything changed until a 200 mile drive I will be doing this weekend. I went from 20.5-21 MPG on the highway this summer to 17.5 now. I hadn't done any long trips with the new tires, so I'm pretty much just now figuring out my reduction in highway mileage.

Speedy

Yeah, my O2 sensor went out about a year ago so mine's pretty new.

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you lost 2 MPG with 1) a tire and wheel change, 2) a brake upgrade (which adds 5 lbs of unsprung weight on each front wheel) and 3) a 2" lift. Meanwhile, I took a 3.5 MPG hit from just wheels and tires (1/2" wider and 1/2" taller).

By comparison, back in 2006 when I did my 2.5" lift and upgraded from stock tires to 265/75R16 BFGs, I lost 1/2 of a MPG (or less). The supercharger upgrade in 2011 made no difference to the economy and actually increased it in high elevation driving. I am a bit surprised by this last economy hit from just a tire upgrade.

Gamefreakgc

You guys might find these reads interesting:

http://itisscience.wordpress.com/201...-a-difference/

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-e...ummer-fuel.htm

The short of it is:
"...basically, winter blend gasoline has a larger percentage of butane [simple molecules with high carbon content] in it... Your vehicle miles per gallon typically will drop 2-8% when you start filling up with winter blend."

My own data reflects this, I have a drop starting in fall when they switch the blends in Cali which then goes up in May/June, depending on our gasoline supply that year. If you keep up on the news, they will often tell you when the refineries do the switch. All this with a brand new O2 sensor so that's a non-issue for me.

My MPG's this summer were a consistant 17.5 -18.0 with the 3.0L, which have now dropped to 16.5-17.0 since they made the switch in blends.

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

Assuming a 5% drop in economy (the stated range is 2%-8%), that's a little over 1 MPG drop, which is roughly consistent with what my fuel economy checks have revealed.

Gamefreakgc

Yeah, that sounds about right. Some might even experience some atypical results outside of that range when you mod an engine with a S/C. Depending on factors such as where you live and what they mix in the fuel for the winter those results might be higher (or less).

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

The O2 sensor replacement seemed to have worked. I did my 2-mile (each way) commute to work 5-days last week (been recovering from a cold and not wanting to ride my bike) and did a 225 mile trip on the same tank of fuel. Before the O2 sensor replacement I could not have done that on one tank.

86bedlesstoy

http://www.gaugepods.com/toyota.html

Speedy

Added 2.1 pulley and Water Methanol Injection. LOTS of power added!

Texas_Ace

Very nice, still watching the video but glanced at the pictures on the website, looks like almost a carbon copy of my install .

What size nozzle are you running? I see you bought a bunch of HEET, just FYI in most areas you can get pure methanol WAY cheaper from a race track/store. Circle tracks for example. I get mine locally for around $3 a gallon now days.

Don't forget the advantage of the wet compression in the supercharger. The liquid creates a film that improves the seal on the rotors and will improve the efficiency. This means you should see a bit higher boost even though the cooler air charge should cause you to normally loose boost (cooler air takes up less space).

P.S. I noticed that I missed a PM from you awhile back, I never log in here anymore so I missed that lol.

Speedy

Where I'm at racing methanol is $$. I found a shop about 1.5 hours away that had it. $37 for 5 gallons makes it about $7 a gallon or 5 cents a fluid oz. Heet is $1.46 for 12 fluid oz or 12 cents a fluid oz.

So yes, cheaper, but by the time I drive to get it, measure it out for mixing, etc, it's really a wash. If I could get it right down the street it's the way I'd go though.

I ended up with a 7GPH nozzle. Not sure where those online calcs get 3GPH for these setup, it wasn't near enough. A 5GPH might do it, but I like the extra overhead of the 7GPH and since my controller is progressive, I can adjust when max flow is to get to that sweet spot.

Next I'm considering Katskinz leather seats and adding heat to them, and maybe a paint job to Toyota Inferno Orange

Texas_Ace

Wow, meth is pricey up there, guess I am lucky since most of the US supply of methanol comes through Texas. It is easy to find and cheap around here. I used to buy it by the 55 gallon drum.

7GPH is a good base nozzle, you have also discovered that those calculators are useless. Never have been able to figure out why they are setup like they are myself. Heck some places even go so far as to say that water will make more power then methanol, which is flat out wrong.

If you really want to gain some big power run 100% methanol and up the nozzle size to around 14-20gph. I forget now what I ended up with in my setup when I was still supercharged, I know I had 2 nozzles, pretty sure I was running a 14gph and a 7gph. I wanted more then I had I know that. The more I added while keeping AFR's in check the more power it made.

The only issue with larger nozzles is the amount of water you inject. If you inject too much water it can cause you to bog and loose power. Methanol does not have this issue.

Speedy

Cool, it's pretty peppy at this point and cheap to run. One washer res lasts me 2 tanks of fuel with my normal driving and I'm at about $3 a gallon of mix at this point. We always want more so I've started eyeballing a turbo setup but I figure I'll do up the interior and paint first I'm topping out at 11psi with the 2.1 pulley.

Texas_Ace

Turbo is where the fun is, I have been doing some armchair brainstorming for my next build and think I have narrowed it down to a PTE 7675 turbo to start things off with. Just not sure what engine to use, the 5vz is strong but also very old and inefficient. A 1GR would be a nice upgrade but not sure how strong they are. The 1UZ is ok but I would just drop in an LS motor if I was going V8.

The real challenge will be the transmission and drivetrain. Gonna need a 4L80E for sure along with better diffs.

With a 5VZ with a bolt on build I would use the CXracing turbo manifold with my own turbo selection (the 5858 should work pretty good, or an S256 or an EFR if money is no opject). Then I would have a replenumed intake manifold made to get rid of those long runners.

I would then use something like the AEF FIC piggyback for tuning. At this point I would have to pick between using a second fuel system with methanol / E85 or using a normal meth kit with larger injectors. Personally I would use a second fuel system but I also would not want to rip up the front of my truck with an intercooler. Not to mention that using a second set of injectors vastly improves the drivability since the stock ECU runs everything like normal until boost kicks in and the extra injectors start firing.

Of course everyone has their own opinions on what is best. I might use the 5VZ not because it is best but simply to see what it can do.

Speedy

Some kind of Chevy v8 swap is where it's at. If I were going to do it I would look at something that would give me about 400 horsepower at the tires. It's definitely something on the radar however several folks seem to get close to that with just a turbo setup.

Texas_Ace

A stock 5VZ should be able to reach 400whp, with new rods and pistons it could do far far more then that. I figure with rods and pistons it should be good for at least 800-1000hp. Not sure when the valve springs would become an issue and it would need a higher redline for sure.

A 1UZ V8 swap would be interesting but a bit too easy to make the power. I think I will most likely see what a 5VZ can handle to start out with, get the drivetrain sorted out and then go for something better. I think I should be able to max out the 7675 with a built 5VZ easy enough anyways, just laggier then needed compared with a 1gr with VVT-I. A 3UZ VVT-I is a nice motor as well but a bit more costly to build and it is a V8, which everyone expects to be fast. No one ever expects a V6 to be fast.

Speedy

Meh, if I were to do a V8 swap, I'd want a Chevy LS3 or better yet LT1. The trans/xfer would be the big issues I'm thinking.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, these are the easy way out, although the truck engines are where it is at now days. They have made upwards of 900+ WHP on stock components and are cheap.

I just have a real hard time going back to pushrods myself. I like to build sleepers and when you tell someone it has a turbo small block, well sleeper goes out the window. Tell them it is a turbo V6 and no one thinks it is fast unless it is a GTR.

The drivetrain will have to be upgraded to a 4L80E (in order to keep the drivetrain shock to a minimum vs a manual) and a ford 9" read end most likely. The front diff would be more interesting, maybe a cobra IFS diff.