!!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!!
Jun 7, 2007 | 07:56 AM
#401
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From: Vancouver, Canada
^ Agree timing is a big factor in the pinging...i usually pull 1 or 2 degrees and its perfect.
I have a couple smt7's on order which i hope to try out on my tacoma to get the wideband closed loop setup working. I will let everyone know how that goes.
I have a couple smt7's on order which i hope to try out on my tacoma to get the wideband closed loop setup working. I will let everyone know how that goes.
Jun 7, 2007 | 08:45 AM
#403
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
In Steve's case, the pinging is being caused by running too lean. We measured the afrs with the wideband and watched 14.7:1-18:1 ratios while in boost and closed loop.
I agree with Greddy that there is something going on with the "e" function that is causing the o2 to go haywire.
I hope the issues with unit are resolved sooner then later, as its a very expensive unit ($500) to own if competitors have similar units to do timing and WOT afrs for much less
I agree with Greddy that there is something going on with the "e" function that is causing the o2 to go haywire.
I hope the issues with unit are resolved sooner then later, as its a very expensive unit ($500) to own if competitors have similar units to do timing and WOT afrs for much less
Last edited by blink; Jun 7, 2007 at 08:50 AM.
Jun 8, 2007 | 05:41 AM
#404
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Hey Speedy sorry for high jacking your thread man, i know its got your name in it but people seem to read this more than anything else.
UPDATE:
Well I yanked out the ftc last night, Sending it back to URD for the bench test. Well see if its any good or not. Theres nothing else that can cause the sudden problem like that though. So wish me luck guys. No truck to drive again
I may have a solution to getting it back sooner though. Im supposed to be going to cali next week wenesday until sunday. So i hope the ftc gets there by atleast tuesday so maybe i can pick it up from urd on friday or saturday. If they send it out right away to be bench tested right away anyways.
UPDATE:
Well I yanked out the ftc last night, Sending it back to URD for the bench test. Well see if its any good or not. Theres nothing else that can cause the sudden problem like that though. So wish me luck guys. No truck to drive again
I may have a solution to getting it back sooner though. Im supposed to be going to cali next week wenesday until sunday. So i hope the ftc gets there by atleast tuesday so maybe i can pick it up from urd on friday or saturday. If they send it out right away to be bench tested right away anyways.
Jun 8, 2007 | 05:46 AM
#405
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From: Oklahoma State
I may have a solution to getting it back sooner though. Im supposed to be going to cali next week wenesday until sunday. So i hope the ftc gets there by atleast tuesday so maybe i can pick it up from urd on friday or saturday. If they send it out right away to be bench tested right away anyways.
Hey Mark, how long did that SS bench test take?
Jun 8, 2007 | 06:22 AM
#406
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From: Seattleish, WA
Brian won't/can't bench anything himself, it'll go to Mark and Company at SS. I think it was about 3 weeks before I got a replacement for the ESC1 (which is still hosed). Granted, SS is busy, and I think they're as small as URD is (maybe 33% larger),
{rant}
but I kinda' have an issue with _URD_ in that they didn't just send me a new box, they put the ball in SS's hands to test it first. That "customer service" thing must have a different definition to them.
I think this is even more of an issue with something like the FTC1e where if you pull it out of the rig, your rig is _down_; you could at least run without an ESC1. On the upside, Steve did offer to send me "the one out of his own truck" when the 2nd one proved to be as flaky as the first. But that's kinda' late in the game for me to give a thumbs-up to.
{/rant}
but I kinda' have an issue with _URD_ in that they didn't just send me a new box, they put the ball in SS's hands to test it first. That "customer service" thing must have a different definition to them.
I think this is even more of an issue with something like the FTC1e where if you pull it out of the rig, your rig is _down_; you could at least run without an ESC1. On the upside, Steve did offer to send me "the one out of his own truck" when the 2nd one proved to be as flaky as the first. But that's kinda' late in the game for me to give a thumbs-up to.
{/rant}
{insert plug here}http://sea2skytuning.com/index.php?o...ask=view&id=36{/plug}
Last edited by midiwall; Jun 8, 2007 at 06:24 AM.
Jun 8, 2007 | 06:28 AM
#407
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From: Nashville, TN
Hey Speedy sorry for high jacking your thread man, i know its got your name in it but people seem to read this more than anything else.
UPDATE:
Well I yanked out the ftc last night, Sending it back to URD for the bench test. Well see if its any good or not. Theres nothing else that can cause the sudden problem like that though. So wish me luck guys. No truck to drive again
I may have a solution to getting it back sooner though. Im supposed to be going to cali next week wenesday until sunday. So i hope the ftc gets there by atleast tuesday so maybe i can pick it up from urd on friday or saturday. If they send it out right away to be bench tested right away anyways.
UPDATE:
Well I yanked out the ftc last night, Sending it back to URD for the bench test. Well see if its any good or not. Theres nothing else that can cause the sudden problem like that though. So wish me luck guys. No truck to drive again
I may have a solution to getting it back sooner though. Im supposed to be going to cali next week wenesday until sunday. So i hope the ftc gets there by atleast tuesday so maybe i can pick it up from urd on friday or saturday. If they send it out right away to be bench tested right away anyways.
I put my order in with URD last night for the 7th injector kit, AFR Calibrator, and 2.2" pulley. I'm getting close.
Jun 8, 2007 | 06:36 AM
#408
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Not the kind of moral support i was looking for Well atleast mt_goat said good luck. Im gonna need all i can get since i have none at all.
Hey midiwall, did you first unit test out good? or bad? if bad waht was the problem on it?
Well atleast mt_goat said good luck. Im gonna need all i can get since i have none at all.Hey midiwall, did you first unit test out good? or bad? if bad waht was the problem on it?
Jun 8, 2007 | 06:53 AM
#409
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From: Seattleish, WA
The first ESC1 tested bad - the first channel was always "on". The 2nd channel seemed flaky as to when it engaged.
The 2nd ESC1 is weird in that it doesn't want to stay "on", it's not an issue with the boost feed. That one's never been back to Steve or SS.
"Good Luck".
The 2nd ESC1 is weird in that it doesn't want to stay "on", it's not an issue with the boost feed. That one's never been back to Steve or SS.
"Good Luck".
Jun 8, 2007 | 07:02 AM
#410
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From: Nashville, TN
I'll bet if you call Brian and explain your dilemma he'll work with you on this.
Jun 8, 2007 | 07:04 AM
#411
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Yeah, im calling him in just a moment. To tell him about whats going on, and I still need to have the 2.1 swapped out for the 2.2. and verify the address to send this stuff to. just so i know it goes to the right place.
Jun 8, 2007 | 09:08 AM
#412
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Well, its sent out
I talked to Brian though, he said he would get it to ss as soon as possible, and would meet up with me in cali if it gets done before saturday and give the unit back. So well see what happens
I talked to Brian though, he said he would get it to ss as soon as possible, and would meet up with me in cali if it gets done before saturday and give the unit back. So well see what happens
Jun 8, 2007 | 09:16 AM
#413
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From: Nashville, TN
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:04 AM
#414
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They dont do it that way... Its not the greatest idea IMO. But either way ill need to resolder the wires back on, and if mine tests good I personally dont feel like ripping out another unit and having to resolder a third time. These solders were professionally done and i couldnt get them to sparate using a soldering gun. I litereally had to snip the wires to get the unit free.
And by being professionally done i mean by an electrical engineer (my buddies g/f)
And by being professionally done i mean by an electrical engineer
(my buddies g/f)
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:22 AM
#415
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From: Nashville, TN
They dont do it that way... Its not the greatest idea IMO. But either way ill need to resolder the wires back on, and if mine tests good I personally dont feel like ripping out another unit and having to resolder a third time. These solders were professionally done and i couldnt get them to sparate using a soldering gun. I litereally had to snip the wires to get the unit free.
And by being professionally done i mean by an electrical engineer (my buddies g/f)
And by being professionally done i mean by an electrical engineer
(my buddies g/f)I've been practicing my soldering the past few nights getting ready to do my stuff. It's been a while, but I've gotten the hang of it again.
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:35 AM
#416
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I see. I may solder in some extra wire when I do mine just in case. That way if I run into problems, I'm not cutting on the stock stuff.
I've been practicing my soldering the past few nights getting ready to do my stuff. It's been a while, but I've gotten the hang of it again.
I've been practicing my soldering the past few nights getting ready to do my stuff. It's been a while, but I've gotten the hang of it again.
The way my buddies g/f did it is the 2 wires being soldered together, make them have like hooks so they can connect together then solder them together if you understand what i mean. i guess a better explanation is curl your 2 index fingers then connect them together to one another so they hook into eachother is how the wiring was soldered together.
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:50 AM
#417
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From: Seattleish, WA
I do something similar with all my connections... I prefer maximizing the contact between the copper wire (copper's a better conductor than tin), so I braid the ends together, then solder. This also has the side effect of not causing a huge bulge at the connection which makes it easier to slide the right sized heatshrink over it. You guys _are_ using heatshrink and not just taping, right?
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:58 AM
#418
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Yeup, making a connection "mechanically secure" is the general idea.
I do something similar with all my connections... I prefer maximizing the contact between the copper wire (copper's a better conductor than tin), so I braid the ends together, then solder. This also has the side effect of not causing a huge bulge at the connection which makes it easier to slide the right sized heatshrink over it. You guys _are_ using heatshrink and not just taping, right?
I do something similar with all my connections... I prefer maximizing the contact between the copper wire (copper's a better conductor than tin), so I braid the ends together, then solder. This also has the side effect of not causing a huge bulge at the connection which makes it easier to slide the right sized heatshrink over it. You guys _are_ using heatshrink and not just taping, right?
ofcoarse the heatshrink was put on.She works at Luke Air Force base out here, making/fixing the Flight simulators and all he wires are inspected and if not properly done inspectors make them redo it. Shes the only one there that has never failed an inspection out of everyone. Was definetly some awsome work done!
Jun 8, 2007 | 11:13 AM
#419
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From: Nashville, TN
Yeup, making a connection "mechanically secure" is the general idea.
I do something similar with all my connections... I prefer maximizing the contact between the copper wire (copper's a better conductor than tin), so I braid the ends together, then solder. This also has the side effect of not causing a huge bulge at the connection which makes it easier to slide the right sized heatshrink over it. You guys _are_ using heatshrink and not just taping, right?
I do something similar with all my connections... I prefer maximizing the contact between the copper wire (copper's a better conductor than tin), so I braid the ends together, then solder. This also has the side effect of not causing a huge bulge at the connection which makes it easier to slide the right sized heatshrink over it. You guys _are_ using heatshrink and not just taping, right?
When soldering, touch the iron to the wire for a couple seconds, then apply the solder to the wire right where the iron is touching keeping the iron on the wire. Using rosin core solder, you'll see the solder flow into the wire. Once it flows, remove the iron and let it cool before moving the wires. Be careful not to leave the iron on the wire too long so as not to damage sensitive parts.
I didn't like the red LED that came with the LC-1 for the free air calibration function, so I changed it to green. I think I have a picture of that solder connection I can post later.
Last edited by Speedy; Jun 8, 2007 at 11:16 AM.
Jun 18, 2007 | 08:07 AM
#420
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From: Tulsa
Okay all... Get out your spark plug sockets and pull your plugs.
SCRAP the concept of running a .040-044" gap, you'll find MUCH better response and MORE power running a 1/100 of an inch SMALLER. Greedy and I have been playing a bit behind your backs, and after this weekend we're both walking around with HUGE smiles running IK22's gapped to .030-.032".
Why? It's the chemistry of what's happening in the cylinder as you boost the air flow. You're increasing the amount of nitrogen in the air/fuel mixture which is doing all it can to STOP the spark from happening. That means that _with a stock ignition system_ you'll want to run a smaller gap in order to get that mixture to reliably ignite.
On top of it, Gregg's reporting a 3mpg INCREASE in gas mileage after a long trip, AND less soot in his tailpipe. Gregg's move was also from dual electrode plugs to IK22's, so that may have something to do with the mileage. I don't have a lot of runtime on mine yet to comment, but I smell a lot less fuel in the exhaust.
Oh, and there's potentially another radical change (in terms of what's commonly thought)... But I'll need a few more days to gather data. {tease!}
SCRAP the concept of running a .040-044" gap, you'll find MUCH better response and MORE power running a 1/100 of an inch SMALLER. Greedy and I have been playing a bit behind your backs, and after this weekend we're both walking around with HUGE smiles running IK22's gapped to .030-.032".
Why? It's the chemistry of what's happening in the cylinder as you boost the air flow. You're increasing the amount of nitrogen in the air/fuel mixture which is doing all it can to STOP the spark from happening. That means that _with a stock ignition system_ you'll want to run a smaller gap in order to get that mixture to reliably ignite.
On top of it, Gregg's reporting a 3mpg INCREASE in gas mileage after a long trip, AND less soot in his tailpipe. Gregg's move was also from dual electrode plugs to IK22's, so that may have something to do with the mileage. I don't have a lot of runtime on mine yet to comment, but I smell a lot less fuel in the exhaust.
Oh, and there's potentially another radical change (in terms of what's commonly thought)... But I'll need a few more days to gather data.
{tease!}
Pulled all my plugs and changed the gap to .032" this weekend from ~.044" previously set.
WOW
Big improvement! Feels much quicker and far less hesitation for me in open loop at around 3500 rmp. (running too rich and have yet to tune it out).
