yea that is pretty darn cool thats how the smt7 does things Only thing that really sucks is you cant view where you are as far as AFR goes on the smt7...they prob did that on purpose so you would have to buy there wideband control unit.

 

Hmmm... so, digging through the links from Innovate and Dobeck, you finally get to here:

http://www.powercardtuning.com/produ...pro/index.aspx

and here (for NA engines):
http://www.powercardtuning.com/produ...eIndexID=53133


If you keep digging around, you find that you CAN buy the _Powercard_ today:
http://www.supercharger.com/Shop/Vie...eIndexID=52253

but it looks like Innovate is waiting on the Powercard Pro.

One HUGE thing to note, not that it'll come as a surprise...

Now, taking a stand back from all this, given ALL the time and money that we've spent on piggybacks, you guys all realize that we could have had a nice stand-alone engine management system. Right? AEM, Motec, heck... we could have applied the headache stress to getting a cheap GoTech loaded up!

Interesting that this "is coming", but I'm closer than ever to ditching all this piggyback black magic and going stand-alone.

 

Okay all... Get out your spark plug sockets and pull your plugs.

SCRAP the concept of running a .040-044" gap, you'll find MUCH better response and MORE power running a 1/100 of an inch SMALLER. Greedy and I have been playing a bit behind your backs, and after this weekend we're both walking around with HUGE smiles running IK22's gapped to .030-.032".

Why? It's the chemistry of what's happening in the cylinder as you boost the air flow. You're increasing the amount of nitrogen in the air/fuel mixture which is doing all it can to STOP the spark from happening. That means that _with a stock ignition system_ you'll want to run a smaller gap in order to get that mixture to reliably ignite.


On top of it, Gregg's reporting a 3mpg INCREASE in gas mileage after a long trip, AND less soot in his tailpipe. Gregg's move was also from dual electrode plugs to IK22's, so that may have something to do with the mileage. I don't have a lot of runtime on mine yet to comment, but I smell a lot less fuel in the exhaust.


Oh, and there's potentially another radical change (in terms of what's commonly thought)... But I'll need a few more days to gather data. {tease!}

 

nice nice good find guys...i will have to check that out for sure...i gapped mine to .036" last time.

 

I would suggest that even .036" is too much. I'm really floored by the difference in 1/100th of an inch. I would never have thunk it.

 

For what its wourth - I was going over the install instructions for the TRD 7th injector and they say to gap the plugs (IK20's) to 0.032"

Mark - saw you taking off from a light down by QFC - i was a ways away, but your rig sounded pretty badass taking off!

 

Interesting... I don't think I ever bothered to look. Mr. URD (and others) has always touted .04x...


heh... I wish it ran as well as it sounded.

One of these days you gotta stop me so I know who you are. I'm a bit nervous.

 

This is interesting, I wonder what Gadget's reasoning was for that. So the smaller .032 gap works better? Any draw backs, like pinging or something?

 

Yeup. WORLDS of difference.


Not that Gregg or I have noticed yet. He's got about 10 hours of driving on the new gap, I've got about 3. Time will tell, but the difference is IMMEDIATE as you pull away from the house after doing it.

 

No detontation that I have noticed yet - and I was pulling long, pretty steep grades on the north cascades highway this weekend. Also, I am able to run 12 lbs on a gap of .034 without blowing out the spark.

 

ugh i just looked at mine....time for new spark plugs!


dang i cant wait to get my s/c back on there!

 

Hmm, I'm going to have to pull my plugs... I think I'm running stock right now (.043 IIRC).

Any help in smoothing out the idle?

 

What's the first sign you have of that happening?

 

Stumbiling, "soft" sounding misfires. Only happened at WOT above 8 lbs - But I am sure that even below those boost pressures, there was a negative impact on the plugs ability to light the mixture quickly and evenly. I have alot more "snappy" part throttle response now.

 

Yeup... what he said.

I had a weird drop-out around 3500rpm under moderate load, like a gentle passing on the highway after the tranny drops a gear. The RPMs would come up, then the engine would just sag like it flooded. This happened on a dyno 2 weeks ago as well.

That's gone... Now, this has been "gone" before, but it's feeling different this time. I'll know for sure in 100 miles or so.



YES. Something else; I said above that you'd feel the difference as you pull away from your house - UPDATE! I noticed this morning that it happens even earlier. I thought it was a coincidence, but my truck is DEFINITELY starting easier.

 

[short hijack][/short hijack]

 

Awesome results for just narrowing the spark gap... I'm definitely going to have to do this now

 

Bob from TRD told me to run .032 as well on the plugs. He also said to use a 30% Glycol 70% water mix with Water Wetter as well as a 160 degree thermostat.

 

I've been reading up on the SMT7 and found this info:

LAMBDA TUNING
If your engine is closed loop controlled by a narrow band lambda sensor, then you can tune it. Changing the ECU target to a more economical or to a more powerful setting does this. You can also tune WIDE BAND closed loop, but you can?t see the AFR directly. However, you will feel the effect!

From here: http://www.perfectpower.com/products/smt7.asp

What does it mean by "you can't see teh AFR directly?" That's a concern as I'd think you'd want to be able to see the AFR, unless they're saying the SMT7 doesn't have an AFR gauge, and you'll need one as an add-on?

 

Yea the smt7 is good for that

You cant read means it will target the afr you select but you cant read what afr you are at....I personally think they did this because they want you to buy the wideband kit as well Annoying...but if you have a bi-polar cam trigger you cant run the smt7 i think 00+ have them...