Newbee Needs Advice and Criticism
#1
Newbee Needs Advice and Criticism
Hi I am new to this forum and would like some advice or criticism on my future mods. First off I bought a 1998 4runner, 5spd, V6, and obviously 4x4. I know that some would say to take it out offroad before starting suspension mods. My only problem is that this 4runner came with 20in rims and street tires. I got stuck just trying to back up a trailer at the dump. So taking it off road right now is not an option. I will be ordering a sonoran steel lift and a 4crawler body lift. I am a little torn on a 1.5 or 2 in body lift. Will I have any more issues with one versus the other? I would like to fit 35's and from what I have read this lift should suffice. Opinions would be greatly appreciated. I know I will need to re-gear at some point but am hoping to be able to try it out for a good period of time before having to shell out more money for gears and lockers. I will also be purchasing some rock rails shortly but am torn on brands and what I should be looking for. I can not weld so would prefer to get a set of bolt on style. Should I look for ones with kick outs or are these not needed? I appreciate any insight into these mods since I am new to this. I am very excited and look forward to getting back into the offroad arena. Thank you in advance!h
#2
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ss#1 kit and the 2" bl will net the least amount of trimming, you will also need 16x8 wheels with 4" backspacing as well as shaved upper a-arms and a power steering fluid cooler. CBI makes bolt on sliders (with sleeves through the frame), they look really really nice. kickouts go both ways, they keep stuff off of the body, but also can get hung up when non kickouts might clear.
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http://www.sonoransteel.com/thirtyfive.html
yeah he says at the bottom that the ats arms are needed with the 4,5 bs rims.
yeah he says at the bottom that the ats arms are needed with the 4,5 bs rims.
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really jim? i didnt think 4inchers were still enough.
i found you can get by on 315's without shaved/aftermarket arms IF and only IF you've got the clearance via either
a) 3.5" or LESS backspaced wheels
b) 1.5" spacers on a 4.5" or 1" spacer on a 4" BS wheel.
OR get some swamper TSL's in a 35X10.5X16. 2 inches narrower so should be doable on stock arms sans spacers. those tires will be my next setup.
im running 1.5" spacers on 4.5" bs wheels up front...essentially making them a 3" bs wheel. i've got about an inch clearance from the control arm to the tire sidewall. I get minor rub on the drivers side when i back up and wheel is cranked 3/4 drivers. i've also got a 1.5" BL and have my coilovers cranked to about 3" up front. i could probably use a bit more on the drivers side as i dont think they're even.
you probably have 4.10's in your truck, a bit taller than my 4.30's with A/T. it'll be a dog, but since you have a manual tranny, might not be that bad. you dont need to regear, but its recommended that you do to put your power band back in check. with my 35's and stock gears, im on a 3.7ish:1 equivalent ratio. a bit slow, but doable. i'll be regearing + front locker in the next couple weeks.
my honest opinion:
ditch the 20's n get a nice set of 33's (with your SS lift system) to get your feet wet & some experience under your belt. definitely get some sliders before you head out (if you plan on being anywhere near rocks). wheel whatcha got as is 'til youre ready for lockers & regear. when that time comes think about going 4.88's with at least a rear locker. with a 1.5 or 2" BL, you should be set for running 35's.
you mentioned a trailer, so you've got a hitch for your rear recovery point. you should also have a front tow hook attached to the bottom of the frame rail. make sure you've got your recovery points covered and get yourself a tug strap.
i'd opt for the weld on sliders. trailgears are cheap at 135-145 shipped. shouldnt cost you more than 100 to get em welded on....
i found you can get by on 315's without shaved/aftermarket arms IF and only IF you've got the clearance via either
a) 3.5" or LESS backspaced wheels
b) 1.5" spacers on a 4.5" or 1" spacer on a 4" BS wheel.
OR get some swamper TSL's in a 35X10.5X16. 2 inches narrower so should be doable on stock arms sans spacers. those tires will be my next setup.
im running 1.5" spacers on 4.5" bs wheels up front...essentially making them a 3" bs wheel. i've got about an inch clearance from the control arm to the tire sidewall. I get minor rub on the drivers side when i back up and wheel is cranked 3/4 drivers. i've also got a 1.5" BL and have my coilovers cranked to about 3" up front. i could probably use a bit more on the drivers side as i dont think they're even.
you probably have 4.10's in your truck, a bit taller than my 4.30's with A/T. it'll be a dog, but since you have a manual tranny, might not be that bad. you dont need to regear, but its recommended that you do to put your power band back in check. with my 35's and stock gears, im on a 3.7ish:1 equivalent ratio. a bit slow, but doable. i'll be regearing + front locker in the next couple weeks.
my honest opinion:
ditch the 20's n get a nice set of 33's (with your SS lift system) to get your feet wet & some experience under your belt. definitely get some sliders before you head out (if you plan on being anywhere near rocks). wheel whatcha got as is 'til youre ready for lockers & regear. when that time comes think about going 4.88's with at least a rear locker. with a 1.5 or 2" BL, you should be set for running 35's.
you mentioned a trailer, so you've got a hitch for your rear recovery point. you should also have a front tow hook attached to the bottom of the frame rail. make sure you've got your recovery points covered and get yourself a tug strap.
i'd opt for the weld on sliders. trailgears are cheap at 135-145 shipped. shouldnt cost you more than 100 to get em welded on....
#9
I was planning on selling the 20's to hopefully recoup some of the cost of the lift and new tires and rims. I really wish I would have read more before buying this rig so I could have purchased one with the elocker. However, it seems to be really well taken care of mechanically. How much more torque will I be putting on the cv's offroad with 35's versus 33's? Thank you for all the replies. I also have begun to realize all the talk about the abuse on ones wallet with a 4runner. I have been reading a lot and have found a ton of things I want to do to my rig. However, I am not made of money so some will have to wait.
#10
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