creed, when he said that i thnk he was talking to me =]
i was running a bit rich and he was jsut informing me of a solution to it =]

little mis understanding

 

I'm sorry Creed! I was talking to Weasy2k this time around. Yeah, I think by sending that patch to Brad he could be happily tuning like the rest of us.

Chris

 

Okay, this is critical information that everyone should understand about the BR-3/SMT-6 combination in reference to tuning. Most that have the units already know, so this is for everyone else wanting to know how it works. Ok, lets take for example your situation. You got a check engine light, you check the code in the BR-3 and it says you are running too rich. So, knowing that lowerin the numbers in the SMT-6 software decreases fuel, you go to the analog map and lower the numbers as you specified you were going to do. Now, when making more slight adjustments is when you need to know how the BR-3 works in relation to the SMT-6. So, here's an easy couple examples:

1) BR-3 Short term fuel trim says -10, so you should decrease the numbers in the analog fuel map in the SMT-6, because the BR-3 is telling you that the stock ECU is having to take out fuel to keep it at 14.7:1.

2) BR-3 short term fuel trim says +10, so you should do just the opposite and add fuel in the analog fuel map, which will bring the short term fuel trim back to normal.

That's how it works, and this is critical to properly tuning our trucks. Each single digit change can make a rather large difference in the BR-3 reading, and my recommendation is only do 1-2 number difference changes at a time and test to see the result. You won't see the LTFT change until you reset the computer. If you aren't pinging right now, don't mess with it. You have a fuel issue right now you have to fix.

What I would do is change the first two columns to 2's, the 3-5 columns to 3's, the 5-7 columns to 4's, and whatever columns are left to 5's. I think this would be a good baseline fuel map for you to test it futher. Whatcha think?

Chris

 

thats exscactly what i got =] and that is how i tune as well...but i also check the whole range with the br3 (this is in neutral) from 750rpm up to 5000rpm then i take the info insdie and analyze the readings and make changes to smt software at whichpoint i then upload the map to truck and continue.....i ussualy reset the ecu once i see that the st is where i want it usualy wehen i reset the number that was in the stft is now in the ltft (the average number) im not that far off maybe +/- 2...thats how i do it basicly same thing as what you said but in a column based way =] need a second laptop to change at same time as my current one only has 1 serial port =]

 

Well good deal! Did your reduction change the idle and startup CEL?

Chris

 

havent tried yet im wiaitng for tonight when all people are off road to do some more high speed testing boy is it fun =]
im gonna try and see i f i can ge that road dyno thing working cause it doesnt seem to work with me.....im gonna get 0-100mph speed tests as w ell with gtech (road dyno if it works)

people on ttora are saying they getting 14-15 1/4 mile times with pritty much same setup....i think the gtech is gaying out somewhere or they are lying or something thats crazy

 

Gadget posted a 15 flat in his 4runner, and that's pretty much the ideal. i wouldn't trust anyone much faster than that unless then have a shot of Nos. i definitely wouldn't trust any of those kids on customtacos.

creed

 

I think I might have gotten hold of a s/c ... just waiting for the guy to give the final confirmation

 

Awesome! How'd you find it? How much? Details?

Chris

 

used for 8 months on a tacoma (so he claims). I found it on TTORA board thanks to a posting here. $1500 plus shipping. According to him it should still be under warranty ... although I seriously doubt its transferable.

Anything I should ask about? I was kinda hesitant to buy used, but I can't find a new one for less then $2100 anywhere, I called sterling and I was quoted $2450.

I hope I don't get scewed with this

 

Yeah, buying used is never fun, except for the money savings. I would have him make sure the nose assembly is is good shape with no movement in and out. Other than that, just make he's got everything that normally comes with it so you don't have to go and spend some more money. Make sure he's the got tensioner too.

Chris

 

that's a pretty good price - i wouldn't really worry about getting screwed - if he's been on the boards and he has a lot of posts, i'm sure he's legit. try and pay with a CC also, so if something does go wrong, you have a recourse.

as far as the s/c goes, you want to make sure the nose cone isn't weeping oil lots of oil. if you buy it, and it is, then worse-case scenario is that you need to rebuild the nosecone at a cost of $350. not a huge loss - not like you hav eto throw away the s/c or anything. but that is unlikely if the s/c is new like he claims.

also, you want to make sure it includes ALL the hoses and components, and even then, you should plan on heading to NAPA and buying some extra vacuum line just in case.

if it includes the dynamic tensioner, then that is good too.

i've bought two used s/c's and haven't had any problems.

creed

 

ok thanks .. that puts me somewhat at ease. I e-mailed him about the oil, and tensioner.

I wish he would take credit card, but he doesn't want to pay the paypal fees for credit cards. so well see what happens .. thats where the hold up is right now. I even offered an extra $20 to help offset paypal fees. .. but well see

thanks for the input chris, and creed

 

Aren't you guys worried about 13.8:1 A/F ratios at WOT? That seems very lean for a forced induction motor.

My goal on the dyno is around 11.8:1 at WOT for a good safety factor and low EGTs. 12.5:1 seems to provide the most power. Just curious what your thoughts are.

 

yeah, 13.8 is bad. that's just too hot, and i hope no one is running too long with that ratio. 12.0 to 12.5 is ideal. richer than that, you risk post-detonation of unburned fuel in the exhaust manifold, which is no good either.

creed

 

I second that!

Chris

 

well NOW that i know that i have more tuning to go....im running 13.6 right now and temps seem perfect though 1400since my little wire tweaks i havent gone over 1400 on my egt...but ill see how truck likes 11.....i heard gadget mention something like 13.1 or something like that its eairlier in the other smt thread...chris posted what gadget said, but ill see...but agian if you put it at that the br3 would start reading like -20 then the computer contineus to cut back...

 

The computer won't cut back when you're in open loop. This is the beauty of tuning the open loop MAF signal in conjunction with using the ESC1. You need to be aroudn 12-12.5:1 at WOT. Gadget's email detailed out exactly what we should be shooting for. It's kind of weird that your EGT's are looking good when you're running a tad lean in high boost. The only time the ECU will cut fuel is when you are in closed loop, but anytime you're in boost (if the ESC1 is working), you won't have any fuel trim.

Chris

 

yea my truck is really kicking ass....i want to see the gtech results today im sure i recelty shed around at least .5 seconds off 1/4 mile.....i susaly think of ti as if i FELT more power then before there must be a fiar diffference....im tryign to get my truck to run on the dyno like the (as of yet) most power form a tacoma is out of a 95.5 taco with 274rwhp stock around 170 (if like mine)...personnaly it hkni ts the older ecu....people say things about it being older but personally with all problems of everyone else im happy ot have my truck. After all the mods i have lost 20km to the tank which the main reason is because of my heavy foot =] from when i was stock....now that is awsome...tonight i will try some different settings aimed for complete power....im gonna get going in about 2 hours and continue running for aobut 2-4 hours of steady tunning as i see no rain right now. Hopefully i can get dyno in soon enough!

i just wish someone could tell me settings for the road dyno (see my Road Dyno thread =] ) as that looks much better of a program then the gtech...i want to sell the gtech as well to get some cash back (around 200 bucks cdn at least)

 

when i was running the 1/8th mile in my srunner i was running 9.6@76+mph i know i could have improved with a lsd and a set of stickies but on the street i was hangin with lightnings from a stop i would either get them by a foot or they got me by a foot. from a 20 roll i was killin the lightnings up to around 95 and i was kickin Stang GT's from a 20 roll also. form what i ran against the lightnings from a stop i would have to say i was in the mid-high 13's in the 1/4. with only the S/C no fuel mods. BUT consider the fact that a prerunner is about 150 lbs heavier than an SRunner and a 4x4 is about 300-350lbs heavier. every 100 pounds is approx. 1/10th in the 1/4 mile.

take a 3900 lb truck running a 15 flat drop 500 pounds and your now running a 14.5. i plan on geting another SRunner in mid 2004 since toyota cant decide if tey wasnt to make them or not and they announced they were going to continue production for 2004.


Jason

btw i ran a gtech in my truck and my buddies car(83 GT runing 11.02 in 1/4) it said i was running a 15.03 and said he was running a 12.9 in the 1/4 so the gtech isnt very accurate. i.e miss a shift and your run is completely screwed.