What psi's are you going to try after your water injection system is installed?

Chris

 

i've got the pulleyboys 2.2" and 2.1" pulleys . . . should give around 9 and 10psi each. maybe a touch more.

creed

 

he has the 11psi elprototypes pulley, the guy i know that i got the pulley from is a tool and die maker so he machined a pulley to make 13-14psi he was only gettng arounf 10 with the el prototypes pulley.

Jason

 

well if you consider Winston-Salem North Carolina high altitude then yes.



Jason

 

Man, I would really like to talk to this guys further. Could you recruit to this forum, because I don't anyone successfully making that kind of psi without hurting something.

Chris

 

Yea no kiddingesspecialy with 305's...that enough fuel to get that kind of power going...

I cant wait to see what creed unleshes.....

 

Well, the SMT-6 install went very smoothly with only one challenge. I couldn't use the same ground and power location as I did on the 1998 for some crazy reason. So, instead, I just hooked it up directly to the battery for a constant full power source, and it works great! I might even say this is probably the best way to do it for startup. This way there's no chance for power during the crucial time of starting it up.

Ok, now for the updates on the the throttle position sensor SMT-6 wire to the MAF signal, and the O2 sensor tuning(closed loop) versus the MAF sensor tuning(open loop).

Well, connecting the Throttle Position Sensor SMT-6 wire to the MAF signal proved to work just fine. I had to adjust the deflection, but other than that it's working just fine. Whether it's better than the throttle position sensor is yet to be determined with countless hours of tuning.

As far as the O2 sensor tuning, this was a different story. Connecting it up was easy. I connected the brown/black and blue wires to the wire coming from the O2 sensor, and then connected the violet wire going back into the ECU. The connections were simple, but the tuning was a different story. I can't get it to change anything yet. It doesn't seem to make any difference what I put in the analog map, which should affect the fuel delivery, and when drastic numbers were put in there, I was expecting the check engine light to trigger to come on, but nothing happened. I tried it with the Lambda check on and off, and the unlinear lambda on and off and nothing changed. The truck runs great, with not trouble, so now I'm on a quest to see how I can get this lambda tuning to work.

I also can't seem to get the engine temperature to rear anything other than 115-117 degrees. This same thing happened on my 1998, and it didn't cause any trouble, but now that I'm tuning the O2 sensor signal, it's supposed to matter according to the SMT-6 literature. Anybody else have this problem?

So, here's some pics of the install:

Here's the two screws you have to remove to get the glovebox off:


Here's the hole I drilled in the right side of the glovebox so the SMT-6 software cable could be easily accessed:


Here's the left bolt you need to remove to get the cover above the glovebox out:


Here's the center bolt:


Here's the right bolt:


Here's the wire loom clip you have to slide forward to get off:


Here's the ECU just about to be put back in and the screw locations:


Here's the ECU hanging out testing out a connection to make sure it worked:


Here's the firewall location where the wire loom comes out for you to make the connections:


Here's the pics of the old power source I used on my 1998 that wouldn't work this time around:



And, finally, here's the software cable installed and fed through the hole in the glovebox:


That's it for the SMT-6 install. I've got to figure out the settings for the O2 sensor tuning, and if anyone knows how, please let me know. I'm also going to talk with Louie Ott.

Chris

 

Oh, I forgot to include what I used for the installation procedure.

 

man I am so frustrated .. I have looked everywhere for a supercharger, and I can't get one for around $1700-1800. I even tried looking for a used one, and the cheapest one I could fine was $1550, I offered up to $1400, but I haven't heard back from him. well the search continues ... in the mean time I can start getting these other parts together, and learn from your write ups

:cry:

 

Did you try Sterling McCall Toyota? That's where I got mine, but I don't know if they still have them. I can't remember the guys name, but he was very helpful. If you ever have any questions about any of the writeups, please let me know. I'm glad I can help others on here like everyone has been so kind to help me.

Chris

 

yip yip....truck 80-85% tunned and completed
NE+ hooked up and working great if not even better!

I tunned the supra maf even more and wow i think i may hit upper 15's in 1/4 now =] im hoping aorudn 15.99 =] that would be awsome....but i moved the afm and the o2 sensor wire for the smt to the wire coming OUT of the esc1...insetad of just reading the O2 sensor wire...WOT runs os much smoother as the smt6 understands that it is in WOT and seems to pull so much harder then before....13.8 afr at wot and 14 afr from like 4-5psi 14.6 2-3psi and 14.8 non boost......

there is still some tweaks here and there that would help things out....i found out that some of my wires were loose and causing problems along with the transfer to direct ot batter power instead of radio wire.....man a hill that i couldnt go higher then 130km/h i can now hit 140+ keeps going but i stop it sometimes ot check the afr =].....i will go out again either tonight or tommorw night depending on how i feel....
Now i need some help tunning the ignition...where to go advance and where to go retard....(i know the retard should be around 1500-2100rpm....anyway im happy and so is my truck =]

Hows your truck runin?

 

Wait... You were running the ESC1 *AND* the SMT-6, with both tapped into the O2 sensor, and the SMT-6 was reading the "before" value of the O2 sensor instead of the modified version out of the ESC1?

Ummm... "oh".

Dood... that's not good. You had the SMT-6 basically fighting the ESC1 - actually, it's probably more correct to say that you had the ESC1 fighting the SMT-6.

 

well now its reading the modified one.....also noticed the ESC1 trying to kick in but i got htat leak in boost tube which is causing it to fall out of 2psi+ range.....in the tube...i see my afm go to a locked position (open loop) the fall back to closed loop again (bounce back and forth)....but htings working better now....as for the esc1 fighting.....the ESC1 has intercepted the o2 sensor wire while the SMT6 is just t'ed so its just getting a reading form the o2 not really modding it so it wouldnt relally been a problem.

anyway came back form another run...would have saved my analog map but smt6 is messsed up again...stupid run time errors everytime i try saving....bah....oh yea start up is much much much better actualy...perfect...no more doubel start problems i was having eailier....

now i just gotta learn how to tune the ingition....like where ot advance and where to retard....i already retarded the area around 1800-2300rpm at 14-25% by -2 or so....anway is there actualy a place i can advance the timing at all? if htere is let me know.

Thanks

 

Glad to hear that it's running somewhat better, but before you do all the ignition tuning and final fuel tuning, you need to fix the leaking tubes that you have. This will affect your tuning procedure, and I don't feel like doing this three times: twice for you and once for me. Fix the leaks first!

Chris

 

"Fighting" was a bad choice of words on my part. The real issue is that the ESC1 was dynamically changing the O2 signal, but the SMT-6 was making choices based on the unmodified signal which is wrong.

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

 

Actually, it doesn't matter for the SMT-6 to be before or after the modified ESC1 signal, because when you are tuning the MAF signal (open loop), you aren't doing anything with the O2 signal other than monitoring it. Now, if you had been tuning the Lambda O2 sensor with the SMT-6, it would be a different story.

So, that's definitely not what's causing any trouble for ya. The choice is just whether you want to monitor the modified signal or the actual signal.

Chris

 

sounds to be like you had it right the first time Wes. if you are monitoring the A/F signal, and tuning based on that, you want to see the "unmodifed" signal, because that is a real representation of the engine status. having the SMT connected to the conditioned signal just means you are monitoring the status of the ESC, which is dangerous because it will be reading 14.7 any time you're under boost! whether your modifying the A/F signal or just monitoring it, you want to see it before the ESC.

creed

 

creed,

That's the way I had figured it as well - SMT monitoring the unmodified O2 sensor signal. I have that set-up right now and Bob at IDA Automotive agreed with me there......but I have other issues which r drivin me nuts and I don't know what the deal is (too many variables), but that's another story...... It would be nice to confirm this for sure though.

Brad

 

Brad, are you the guy that got IDA to install the 7th injector for your additional fuel needs?

What are your other problems with your setup? I'd love to hear!

Chris

 

hey Brad -

email me and maybe we can put our heads together on our problems. i still cannot get the truck to run right with the NE+ signal going through the SMT. i tried it again this weekend. the truck starts and runs great with the NE+ signal teed, but when the signal is routed through the unit, it still takes a few tries to start, and then idles rough.

this weekend i tried it all over again: with the pullup on the ECU side (NE+ out on SMT) alone, the pullup+220K resistor, and the pullup+resistor+R-C filter, and no change. i also tried the pullup on the crank signal side (NE+ in) and that didn't matter.

i have the voltage running through the ignition fuse, and the ground through the E- common on the ECU. i guess one thing to test would be the SMT hooked directly to the battery like chris has done, but i really don't see how that would affect any change . . . the ignition fuse is a pretty good source (plus the SMT would be ON all the time which is not necessarily good).

creed