Hey Creed,

Does your truck ever toggle between off line and online with the SMT-6? The only reason I went straight to the battery is it was simple to do, and as far as the continuous power to it, I'm not sure if that would cause a problem or not. I don't think I'll have trouble with it running the battery down or anything along those lines.

I sure wish I could figure out this O2 sensor tuning though.

Chris

 

i have all sorts of problems with the Windows software. for instance, if i try changing any of the scale settings of the monitor windows (on the left) i get an "overflow error 10." if i run the software for too long, yes, the unit seems to lose the signal and i get a disconnected signal and it goes to Off Line. i also randomly get "runtime errors" and the software crashes. i haven't updated the version in a few months, so maybe there are some new patches that are out, but i did update in June so i have the major new release. i also have the patch installed that Louie sent for the no-tune problem.

so instead of trying to work out the bugs by playing around with the hardware address or protocols and whatnot, i just quit using the windows software, and i exclusively use the Dos software which works absolutely flawlessly. by the way, this is on a native PC laptop, not a Mac with Virtual PC (which i use for the BR-3 and which works great).

oh, another problem that i have been trying to work out with Louie is that i can't get the Engine Temp column to read correctly. for those who don't know, there is a multiplier column on the left that is used for refining the maps. on the Fuel map, it's the Engine Temp that is the variable, whereas on the Ignition map it's the Absolute Manifold Pressure. the EngT input is a 0-5 volt scale, like the AMP scale on the Ignition map, so basically, and this is also according to the manual, they both can and should read any 0-5 volt input. i tried hooking up the AMP signal to the EngT input, which is a 0-5 V signal, but it just reads in the lowest cell, whereas the signal works fine in the AMP column on the ignition map.

now there is a Dos command that lets you change the scale settings, and i think the solution lies there. i also tried changing the scale in the windows software, but like a said, i have problems with that software. anyhow, the command for setting the low end of the scale is: "TL p dis (cnt)." i think "cnt" means percent, so if the low end of the scale is 9% of 5V, you would type in "TL p dis 9." this doesn't do anything, so i'm wondering if maybe "cnt" means something else.

anyhow, that's the extent of my problems . . . any suggestions?


creed

 

I've got a couple of runtime errors too, but I've found that in the scale settings for instance it's sounds stupid, but make sure when you select the field, such as minimum, make sure the entire field is highlighted before you make the change. The same holds true for the deflection settings, which I found couldn't just enter the number in front of the percent sign. I had to highlight the entire cell, enter the number without the percent sign, and hit enter. This way would not cause the division by zero error and the one you mention too. Sounds really stupid, but this thing seems to be pretty touchy, to say the least.I had the same problem this time around on my 1997. This again might sounds like a stupid thing to do, but this is what I did to determine if it was in the ground connection or the power connection. I took another wire pulled apart some of the wire I used for the power wire connection, wrapped the additional wire around it (splice sort of), and take it to the power lead on the battery. I then checked the computer, and it didn't work any better. Then I did the same thing using the ground wire without the power wire connected that way to determine if it was a ground problem, and I found out it changed nothing. Then I did both of that way at the same time, and to my surprise it steadied right out, no toggle between online and off-line, and I was happy. So instead of dealing with another potentially unstable power and ground source, I went right to the battery. What was funny is on my 1998, I used the power and ground location that didn't work on my 1997. Isn't it wierd how everything is different between models? If it's working, that's great! If you want to try what I said, I know it sounds funny, but I got the same results you did on those items, which I was able to fix. Got lucky maybe! I haven't been able to figure this one out either. All I get is a Engine Temp reading of 115-117. I've tried the multiplier, which is on the right on the windows software, and it changes nothing on the engine temp. I don't have a clue.Yeah, I've change the multiplier from zero up to 1, which is the range it has, and nothing changes on the windows software either. What has Louie said about this?

Chris

 

Alright.....my truck is magicla some how because it is running even better with the setup i got now....im goign to go out wiht truck in a bit to check the br3 readings cause before reading FROM THE o2 sensor it ran at 19.5 in lt and st ft but thats when it ran the best!.....the egt aggreed with me in that it was at a steady 1450 or lower with the occsional probelms which made it shoot to 1600 in which i thnk i figured out (ESC1 activating and deactivating cause of leak) now im about to completly dissconnect the o2 sensor wire as why does the smt6 need it when its really modifing the maf? does it change its direction depending on fuel trim? Ticks me off that i finally cleaned up the wiring as it hought i was done...now have to rip it apart once again to see the difference ....i think its the ECU i got is much more easy going then the newer ones...even more so then toyota thought.....bah back to testing again...if br3 gives me good readings im sticking withwhat i got....oh by the way...the smt does not read 14.7 when in boost it actualy goes to 13.8 at wot and lower during each shift in deflection while still in "Open Loop" so if what your saying is true why is the ratio changing?

I can see what your saying if i had the o2 intercepted for lambda tuning but i dont see its affect on maf tuning...but hey i could be wrong as well....but im here to learn...thanks for your guys input and i will do everything that is recommended....to see what works best. :alien:
anyway im out to check on BR3...ohh i got another CE light ugh....

 

Ok im back from my run and discovered something fairly interesting......i hooked up br3 and discoverd im running in open loop almost all the time.....here is a br3 file.....its wierd i was rading my too rich idle so i can fix it and noticed when i hit gas a bit at tidle it goes between open and closed loop .....im completly confused right now....i may have to try it again with rewire....the CE light was too rich at start up as it was reading to rich at like 550rpm...ill fix that later this is my focus.....you can see in the file my current BASE ROUGH anagloe map (i fixed leak temporarly) i had it in 4 wheel (wet road) and went up a hill full throttle then pulled back the throttle to away from wot and it was still in open loop....i can see much more power potentional if i figure out this thing and get truck running right...i mean i cant complain the power is amazing and owuld love to try 1/4 but cant as it is wet outside....hwo many of you can peel out in hi 4? its crazy =] (tacoma btw)...im gonna play some games to sooth my mind before trying to tackle this....

 

What did you change?No, don't disconnect the O2 sensor from the SMT-6. Leave it tee'd into the O2 sensor before the ESC1 gets a hold of the signal. This way you can see what your true AFR's are within the SMT-6 software. It's not that you can adjust the O2 sensor, but knowing what the AFR is, you know what to do in the fuel map. What?If what is true?You're not listening to what we say, because you still haven't fixed the leak. That will cause all kinds of intermittent problems, which is all that sounds like you're having! Relax, take a breath, and fix the damn leak!

Chris

 

This is the ESC1 properly functioning. When it hits slight boost, it's going to trigger the ECU into open loop. That's its job!Fix the damn thing permanently!It's not just full throttle that is goes into open loop. It's different on every vehicle, but it could be as low as 60% throttle, because I'm pretty sure it's based on engine load too.Please fix the leak permanently, and then this tuning process will be so much easier. I'm beginning to think you never took out recommendation to do your baseline tuning to begin with, because it sure would make your life a lot easier right now, and ours!

Chris

 

imr eading proper readings from the gauge now 7psi at wot....
i cannot find the proper fitting for the size tubign i got....i am special ordering one so its gonna be a bit......but what i mean by DIRECTION is that will the smt6 change any of its settings if the afr is 9:1 or if its 14.8:1.....i thought it just reads whatt he o2 senors is at it doesnt change anything else based of it...or is that wrong?


the smt6 records a rtio of 13.8:1 at WOT and around 14:1 jsut below wot, 14.5:1 at around 2-3psi and at some points in between it goes higher or lower but htastbecuase i still need to tweak settings =]...anyway if the esc1 told the ecu 14.1:8 (or whatever) then wouldnt the smt6 read it that way any time the esc1 was activated? THats why i thnk it workingbetter this way except for that confusion witht he br3....anyway gonna wait for some inpout on that one .....

 

Cool about the fitting! As far as the SMT-6 changing it's settings based on the O2 sensor reading, it does NOT do that! It only changes what we tell it to.That doesn't sound bad, and it's functioning correctly, but I would try adding some more fuel in the last two columns in the upper rows for WOT, because it should really be around 12-12.5:1 at WOT for maximum power.[quote]...anyway if the esc1 told the ecu 14.1:8 (or whatever) then wouldnt the smt6 read it that way any time the esc1 was activated?[quote]That depends on if you have the SMT-6 reading before or after the ESC1 conditions the signal. As far as the BR-3 reading it always being in open loop, if your ESC1 is working correctly, then yes it's going to read that way, because the ESC1 is doing it's job. In addition, the fuel trims shoul be zero while you're in open loop, whether at 2 psi or 7 psi. Is it? If you're running the mixtures you mentioned, now all you have to do is add more fuel in the upper rows and columns to maximize your power until you see you AFR on the SMT-6 going closer to 12:1 at WOT.

Chris

 

if you looked at br3 file....its a open loop when i barly hit gas peddle in neutral.....not even close to 2psi more like -9 or -10

thats what is getting me worried....

 

Chris,

Yeah that would be me. I installed new wires, the ESC-1 and a BAP recently and took the truck back to Bob for some tuning. It was a mad hot day - 95 degrees in the dyno shop - but I was still pulling consistant 230hp runs. My problems come from trying to do too many things at once, but I was under the gun and had an appt with IDA. Anyway, what I figured from that little trip was that both the ESC-1 and the BAP installs were needless - just throwing away money. I have plenty of fuel goin into the system and never run lean with the additional injector. Also, the ESC-1 can evidently do the same thing that the ESC-1 does, if you use one of your remaining ports on the SMT-6 for this function. For more on this, I would check with Bob at IDA.
Anyway, my idle is no longer smooth for some reason (I think this has to do with the new wires not being installed correctly by me) and I'm having weird lapses in power - but I can't maintain any sort of consistancy with these (sometimes there's a lag and somtimes it just pulls like the dickens). I'm wondering if my belts are loosening, as I do get a bit of squeal if I take it to red-line. It's just frustrating, cause I can't seem to find any time to work on these problems as my life is real hectic these days and I'm not home all that much. Well, if you have any ideas, I'm all ears......

Brad

 

What's the fuel trim doing in that situation? I don't have the BR-3 software on this computer.

Chris

 

Really, that's too bad! Yeah, I've heard this is possible. I need to call him, and see what's involved, although I've already purchased the ESC1.I don't know what to tell you! I'm sorry, but I'm fresh out of ideas other than what you've already mentioned.

Chris

Brad [/B][/QUOTE]

 

I wish I could help ya man, but I'm not too familiar with the SMT-6 install. Unfortunately, I didn't opt for the development package (I'm kickin myself now of course) so I can't even tune this thing without going back to Bob in NJ - pain in the ass and $$$.

If it will help, you can ask me questions about how mine is set up and I will go look for the answers on my rig. However I have no first hand experience here, so I'd be hunting in the dark basically. Damn, I wish one of you guys lived moderately close to CT - it would be so much easier that way. Well, let me know if I can be of any assistance.....

Brad

 

basicly it goes open loop ont he settings and 0 in st and somethign like 7 LT...

here is a pic of one part...notice the fuel trim and the open loop...
notice the differences in throttle position % and the open/closed loop plus the trims....confusing hell outta me...must goto job session (new princess auto store...first one in area applying for job =]) let me knwo what you think

 

Ok, the first thing I would do is reduce your entire first column numbers by 1 in each cell. If you have different numbers in each one, then just reduce the number of each cell by one.

It looks like something is screwy with it showing no consistensy for switching back and forth to and from open loop. I would reset the ECU, and see what the long term Fuel trim is doing then, now that you've reduced the fuel a tad in the idle column. You've got it running a tad rich there.

In that bottom one, it should be in open loop if the ESC1 was functioning properly, but it's showing you're running rich, which is fine because it should be open loop which allows for you to input more fuel the way it should. Weird!

Chris

 

i don't think he can adjust the fuel, only look at it!

creed

 

Why do you say that Creed! He's adjusting the MAF signal, just the like everybody else. I'm not clear!

Chris

 

chris, i agree....it is too wierd maybe gadget will see this and chim in...being the esc1 king as he is.....as far as too rich..damn right it is....i got a CE light saying it is =] and another one just now (sitll gotta change it) im going to drop it a bit as it goes
4,4,3,2,4,1,1,1,1......(starting at 500rpm)ill change it to
2,3,2,1,3,0.......mayeb a bit more then that as well

but again my truck is running really well...i knwo it has more power in it that i havent fixed up yet....esspecialy in the timing change....what you recommend? how do i knwo when to bring it up or down....let me know =]

 

you're talking about Brad, right? he said he doesn't have the developers kit - i think he has the no tune option permanently enabled. he can see the maps but can't make any changes.

which makes me think about somthing: Brad - maybe if i sent you the no-tune disabling file Louie sent me you can make changes yourself? want to try?

creed