Looking into a new mod, need some PhotoCHOPING ASSISTANCE?
#21
Originally Posted by bamachem
if you don't have the money to do it right the first time, then why not leave it alone until you DO have the money? 
right now, they're only scratched. if you botch it, then you'll have to go thru the fun task of stripping it all off w/o harming your paint on the remaining sheetmetal, then spending the cash to put line-x on it anyway.
my vote is to save your milk money (ok, beer money) and line-x it the first go-around, if that is what you really want.
also, if you want to do something NOW, then you can always mask everything off and paint it with some flavor of rustoleum. at least that way, when you get scratched, you can touch it up yourself...

right now, they're only scratched. if you botch it, then you'll have to go thru the fun task of stripping it all off w/o harming your paint on the remaining sheetmetal, then spending the cash to put line-x on it anyway.
my vote is to save your milk money (ok, beer money) and line-x it the first go-around, if that is what you really want.
also, if you want to do something NOW, then you can always mask everything off and paint it with some flavor of rustoleum. at least that way, when you get scratched, you can touch it up yourself...
#22
ok well if you want some more to think about, chew on this:
i put herculiner on my rocker panels, sliders, and rear bumper over 4 months ago. none of it has peeled off. i went to uwharrie yesterday, and slid a little on my sliders and got a few nicks and random scratches; none came off. i spent less than 45 bucks on the whole project. prep time was maybe 20-30 minutes. sanding, taping, and then stirring it up. really not tough/long at all.
touching it up is probably one of the easiest things in the world. no need to tape it off. just stir it up and roll it on. and youd say, well why would you touch it up? i touched up the area where my fender flares was about a month ago because the first time i put it on, i only did one layer because i had to go somewhere.
i suggest you reading through my thread, and christian's thread. the places you plan on putting it (besides the fender flares, because THAT WILL PEEL OFF IN ABOUT 3 WEEKS) will work just fine. i took off my flares and put the herculiner in its place for 2 reasons: a) i hated my flares b)it looked naked without something there, and i had flare lines i couldnt buff out.
i agree with people on "do it right the first time". ive learned my lesson on that more than enough times. but the herculiner, i did it right the first time and dont have any regrets, and even though i have the money right now, i have no desire what so ever to get it redone with line-x. the herculiner does the job.
any questions feel free to ask, but i felt you needed to hear a first hand experience story of someone who has actually had herculiner on their truck for an extended amount of time.
edit:
links to threads:
mine:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/herculined-bumper-rocker-panels-sliders-81582/
christians:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=herculined
i put herculiner on my rocker panels, sliders, and rear bumper over 4 months ago. none of it has peeled off. i went to uwharrie yesterday, and slid a little on my sliders and got a few nicks and random scratches; none came off. i spent less than 45 bucks on the whole project. prep time was maybe 20-30 minutes. sanding, taping, and then stirring it up. really not tough/long at all.
touching it up is probably one of the easiest things in the world. no need to tape it off. just stir it up and roll it on. and youd say, well why would you touch it up? i touched up the area where my fender flares was about a month ago because the first time i put it on, i only did one layer because i had to go somewhere.
i suggest you reading through my thread, and christian's thread. the places you plan on putting it (besides the fender flares, because THAT WILL PEEL OFF IN ABOUT 3 WEEKS) will work just fine. i took off my flares and put the herculiner in its place for 2 reasons: a) i hated my flares b)it looked naked without something there, and i had flare lines i couldnt buff out.
i agree with people on "do it right the first time". ive learned my lesson on that more than enough times. but the herculiner, i did it right the first time and dont have any regrets, and even though i have the money right now, i have no desire what so ever to get it redone with line-x. the herculiner does the job.
any questions feel free to ask, but i felt you needed to hear a first hand experience story of someone who has actually had herculiner on their truck for an extended amount of time.
edit:
links to threads:
mine:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/herculined-bumper-rocker-panels-sliders-81582/
christians:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=herculined
Last edited by northfacer581; Aug 1, 2006 at 02:02 PM.
#23
Awesome, I really appreciate that man. But I do plan on keeping my flares, I like the LTd flares although they do get in the way, it's a nice look and lets face it most of us 3rd gen guys still care a bit about the looks of our trucks. If this stuff peels off the flares so easily then I might just stick with painting them w/ Rustoleum to make for easy touch ups. I need something that is gonna last and it seems like the Herculiner will stick fine to metal but has issues with the hard plastice body material.
#24
yea itll come right off the flares, dont let anyone tell you otherwise.
i personally didnt put it on mine, but i helped put it on my friends jeep's bushwackers, we sanded the crap out of them and put about 4 layers on them, and within 3 weeks, 85 percent of it was just gone.
i personally didnt put it on mine, but i helped put it on my friends jeep's bushwackers, we sanded the crap out of them and put about 4 layers on them, and within 3 weeks, 85 percent of it was just gone.
#26
Originally Posted by KyleT
use the krylon plastic paint, that is more flexible than the rustoleum. unless they also offer a plastic paint.
#30
get the herculine 1 gal can with the roller its like 60$, but it puts out a lot more than the 8$ cans, make sure u rough the hell out of what ur putting it on. u can always do cans of flat black, never go wrong with that
Last edited by hamstrungtaco; Aug 2, 2006 at 04:48 PM.
#32
Isn't the LineX kinda "soft" and the Herculiner very hard to the touch?
That may be part of it. As you go down the road and hit bumps, the body flexes and vibrates. The plastic flares are soft and move/flex with the body. Something very rigid on them will try to resist that flex and more than likely won't last. Also, there's probably a prep-coat applied before the LineX to get them to chemically bond to the substrate - kinda like a good etching primer before you put paint on bare metal.
As far as the spraypaint goes - trail gouges will happen if you wheel it like you want to. That's a fact of life. The thing about it, since it's plastic, you can sand off the high areas, fill the gouges with bondo or something similar, sand to a smooth finish and then cover with the same spraypaint as the surrounding area and then you're good as new. Oh, and the krylon probably is a better choice. It probably has an adhesion promoter (like Bulldog - you can get that at wal-mart in the automotive touch-up section) and rubberizer that helps the paint bond to the plastic and keep it pliable.
That may be part of it. As you go down the road and hit bumps, the body flexes and vibrates. The plastic flares are soft and move/flex with the body. Something very rigid on them will try to resist that flex and more than likely won't last. Also, there's probably a prep-coat applied before the LineX to get them to chemically bond to the substrate - kinda like a good etching primer before you put paint on bare metal.
As far as the spraypaint goes - trail gouges will happen if you wheel it like you want to. That's a fact of life. The thing about it, since it's plastic, you can sand off the high areas, fill the gouges with bondo or something similar, sand to a smooth finish and then cover with the same spraypaint as the surrounding area and then you're good as new. Oh, and the krylon probably is a better choice. It probably has an adhesion promoter (like Bulldog - you can get that at wal-mart in the automotive touch-up section) and rubberizer that helps the paint bond to the plastic and keep it pliable.
Last edited by bamachem; Aug 3, 2006 at 04:07 AM.
#33
Are you aware of anything that could be added to Herculiner to help it bond with the plastic? Or is it just the simple fact that it does dry hard. I know Rhino Liner dries hard and plenty of people have had the sprayted on thier cladding and flares.
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Solid Axle Swaps, All Years
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Feb 15, 2020 06:55 AM



So many conflicting points of view. 
