Denk

Anybody have their igniter fail on them out on the trail, or even in the driveway? My truck has been sittin in the driveway for about a week while I was doin some work on it, including the ISR mod. When I get averything pieced back together I go to start it to hear the new sound of the motor and it won't fire up. It turns over just fine, but no spark. i proceed to check the lead from the coil to the distributor and hold it a half inch away from ground and turn it over to see if there is a spark....and there is nothing. i get some electrically inclined friends over to help and we check everything. it appears to be the igniter, cause we get all the proper resistence and ohms from the coil. But i'll be damned if i have to pay $400 to the stealer to get a new one.

To the point, does anyone know where to get more info or good deals on this part for a 90 runner V6 3.0L? I did a search on yotatech already and it did not really come up with anything. Any and all help is appreciated.

rimpainter.com

I am sure Todd can help you.

AgRunner06

I have found that 1st Toyota Parts has the best prices compared to other discount Toyota parts places. I have yet to order anything from them though.

Good Luck

metal22lica

You might also try toyota parts dude.

TOR

$299.71 shipped to the front door, part normally retails for $349.99.

Todd

Memphis4X4

Denk: Let me know if a new ignitor fixes your problem. I too experieced the symptoms that you described when I did the ISR mod on my '91 Runner. Since my ISR partially blocks my dip sticks, I reached under the ISR and over the Coil wire to check my oil level this weekend. I thought that I had knocked loose the Coil Wire from the Distributor and thought that was my problem....my truck cranked but didn't fire. I checked that both ends were plugged in and then the truck seemed to start fine. Until this morning. When I tried starting it then, it went into an extended-crank, extended-fire condition. It acted like it was straining to start.....where it turned over and seemed to speed up at the end as the motor caught fully. I don't know if an ignitor can act interminently....working sometimes and failing sometimes and sometimes only half working. I guess anything is possible.

Let me know how yours works out.

David

Denk

David, it's funny that you should mention that...not only have I experienced that same thing, but I also read another guy's tale of the same story. I was out on the trail one weekend, and when coming back down the mountain I threw it out of 4WD and the engine cut out on me all together. WhenI tried to restart, it would start fine but then struggle to stay on. Sounded like it wasn't getting any fuel. I thought it could have been a pinched fuel line er somethin like that. I took it to the shop, and they told me the MAF connection had come loose. That didn't make any sense to me. Now this other guy said he was on the trail and had his engine go out, then on, then out, until it died completely. He assumed it was the igniter and replaced the thing and had no problems since. But it sounded a lot like yer problem.

Tonite, i will be testing out the distributor and also comparing meter readings of my igniter with that of another toy that uses the same one. By the way, for 2nd gens, 88-91 V6 EFI all use the same igniter. Once I determine if it is the igniter, I found one for $125 at the salvage yard in the area and will also be replacing the coil, which is not so expensive. Because if the coil were affected also, then it will blow the new igniter you just paid $125 for as well.

Off-road.com's toy tech section had some good stuuf about this and also using diagnostic function for the computer. Hope that helps. And I will keep you posted..

Memphis4X4

Denk: Yeah, again let me know how it sorts out. A friend of mines '91 Honda Accord died on the side of the road. When I went to help her, I called a friend who is a Honda-wrench about it. Over the cell phone, he walked me through the same "side-of-the-road" diagnotics your friends did for you......disconnect the coil cable and see if it sparks to ground upon cranking. When I didn't get a spark, he said that aging Honda's are bad about having their ignitors go out as well as the distributor/coil. Sounds strikingly similar to what you said above. We replaced both and the car runs perfect. I hope that the Toyota V6 isn't prone to have these go out like the Honda's have reputation for.

David

Denk

So last nite, I got to it with my friends and we once again started by checking the igniter and the coil. And a word to the wise, when working on electrical, if you don't have a volt meter, GET ONE, they are highly indespensable when doing this kind of work. Anywho, after comparing the readings we got from mine compared to those of a 93 toy pickup, we decided that the coil and igniter were good. Then it occurs to me, if the distributor is faulty in any way, you will not find any fault in the coil. Meaning, if you think the coil/igniter is bad, check the distributor first, cause if you have bad pick-ups in the distributor, then there will be no signal going to the coil/igniter in the first place. So when you go to do the spark test with the coil, it won't work. So we checked the specs on the distributor and found that one of the pick-ups was bad by testing the resistence through the wires on the harness. we found that one was way out of spec. So, I believe we found the problem.

Now its a quick trip to the store get get some new ones and a new distributor cap and rotor. WOW, when I opened up that cap, the posts were all but gone. I would recommend anyone doing regular maintainence to check the distributor for signs of burning, cracking and overall major wear.

Also, offraod.com has a good write-up on using the diagnostic port in the toy tech section, complete with code listings. lemme know if this helps. I have more info on testing the distributor if you want. Good Luck.

Memphis4X4

Nice piece of troubleshooting work Denk!! I've never taken a look at my distributor. I ,for some reason, have always thought that the distributor was a sealed-electronic unit and didn't have the traditional cap & rotor set-up. I thought someone had told me that......and I believed them!

I'll have to take a look at how worn my cap & rotor are after 165K miles.

Thanks for the good info!!
David

TOR

Memphis, $24.27 for cap and rotor with shipping if you need them give me a holla!

Todd

rimpainter.com

You have got to be kidding! Just buy the new cap and rotor. I will be very surprised if everything hasn't turned to powder in there. 165K miles!

Memphis4X4

Behold the Power of Toyota!!

Powder or not, the truck still runs strong! And that is 165k on the Odometer with oversized tires.....add 10% (for the 31x10.5's vs the original, wimp-package 225's ) and were really talking 180K. I'm going to go ahead and get a new cap & rotor

_________________________________________________


TOR: I may give you a call.

Thanks,
David

TOR

Sure man, 972-238-4465, I will be awaiting your call sir.

Todd

Denk

I was quoted at the dealer for cap and rotor, $15.83 and $6.74 respectively.

Glenn

There is supposedly a domestic igniter which works that costs a whole lot less than a Toyota one. I'll do some more checking if anyone is interested.

Memphis4X4

Glenn: That might be a good idea if you can find it easily. Since the original post was regarding a suspected ignitor problem, someone that runs a search in the future might find it beneficial. That's the beauty of this forum.....we have a store-house full of Posts to use as references to help us fix problems.

David

Blue Steel

ok ok ook ok DENK HELP A BROTHER OUT. i think we got the same problem now here it is. motor turns but wont start. now. what i did: (im still learning so dont make fun of me) simply took the coil wire and grounded it, there was no spark. now according to what u said up there that WONT check the condition of the spark at all?? now. my truck died LITTERALLY 3 miles away from the place that i was at when i replaced my cap. I did NOT replace the rotor. go figure. could this be my problem? i have replaced my coil, ignitor, and the efi relay. your thoughts?? i was driving one second and the next the motor just died and hasn't started since, this was just a few hours after replacing my cap. THANK YOU GUYS!!!

trx125

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...a-owner-55276/
Try this one!

Blue Steel

FIXED IT THANK YOU CHECK IT HERE https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-come-190314/