City?

 

I love it, we have got to move beyond one word sentence if we are ever going to get anything done, LOL.

 

Not too sure (3)

 

breezey-

actually the air flow will be very easy...it's all in my head, we just have to fab the components...very similar to the SS/LS1 ram air setup, where it dumps straight into the front end of the motor...if the scoop was about 12" further forward on the hood, it would be a piece of cake...just gimme a little time, and the pics will speak for themselves.

Billy

 

I would like to see more on this

 

 

It might not look as cool but the scoop would be far more functional if it were placed on the passenger side of the vehicle down towards the airbox. The idea of the setup is to build a small amount of pressure inside the intake plenum (ie you're pushing more air at the engine than it can take in). If you have all kinds of hoses and bends in the tubes then losses occur as the air moves down the tube and effectively gain you nothing. If you really want it functional then the distance between the scoop and the MAF sensor needs to be VERY short.

.....in the old days of carbs it was easy since the carb was smack on top of the engine.
Fuel injection makes that a bit more difficult.

I think the best idea I have seen was to take out the bodywork right under the light on the pass side and channel the air straight back into the airbox. Without some major fabbing work this seems like the most practical way to do it.

 

Lemme see... Dealer RETAIL on the parts is over $450. Assuming that the dealer makes 40% on parts, then his COST is about $275. If he makes 60%, then his cost is about $185.

I bought a good, upper-middle grade paint and clear coat for my hood. It was Akzo-Nobel Sikkens and cost me about $275 for a quart of 0.70 reduced base and a quart of clear with hardener and activator. I ended up with about 5 or so coats of base and about 4 coats of clear. I used about 1/3 of the base and about 1/4 of the clear. Assuming the base was $100 and the Clear + Activator + Hardener was $175, then I spent about $77 on supplies. Add about $10 for sandpaper and polishing wax, and I'm in the $90 range.

If the dealer has to pay $185 for the hood, and it takes $90 for a decent paint job, then the minimum the hood could be sold for AT COST is $275 - and that doesn't include the 10 or so hours of labor it took to spray and sand the coats OR SHIPPING.

Sorry, but no way that you can get a NEW OEM TOYOTA hood with scoop PAINTED (decently with a clear coat) for $230.

Guys, when it comes to body and paint work YOU ALWAYS GET EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR. If you don't believe me, ask Breezy about his Maaco paint job...

 

OOOFFFF!.......poor guy! :pat:
I can only imagine what happened......heard a few horror stories.

 

The hood is part number 53301-35170 and is only the metal part of the hood. It lists for $294. I got mine for $280 locally.

Here's the other stuff that you need (if you want to do it right - but you don't HAVE to get all the parts). You only "need" the nuts, cushions, rivets, bulge, guide, and plate.

Part number 53111-35390-D0 (the last one on the list) is for the color matched grill (sunfire red).