CV Boot help
#1
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CV Boot help
I need to replace the driver side CV boot on my 94 4runner. Is it easier to just replace the boot or the entire axle? How hard is this to do?
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It has been my experience that the boot replacement kits don't work that great. They fall apart quickly. I would replace the whole axle. If it's your first time it will take a couple to a few hours. It's not too bad. Taking apart the 4wd hub is one of the trickiest parts. There are write-ups on it. Just have to search the forum.
#3
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Are the 2nd gen CV boots more difficult to replace than 3rd gens?
I just replaced my inner CV boot the other day, and it was pretty easy. I didnt have to replace the axle. I dont understand why you would replace the axle if its just a torn CV boot.
The kits are just a CV boots and new clamps and grease.
You just have to pull the spindle off the axle, which is only hard becasue the parts are alittle rusted together. once thats off, you can literally pull out the axle from the diff.
I just replaced my inner CV boot the other day, and it was pretty easy. I didnt have to replace the axle. I dont understand why you would replace the axle if its just a torn CV boot.
The kits are just a CV boots and new clamps and grease.
You just have to pull the spindle off the axle, which is only hard becasue the parts are alittle rusted together. once thats off, you can literally pull out the axle from the diff.
#4
The first time you take the CV's out of a 1st gen IFS truck (1st gen IFS being 86-95) you should press out the studs on the drive-flanges and replace them with hardened bolts. That way you can remove CV's without disassembling anything else. I really like how the older trucks have a sealed front diff even without CV's.
I'd just take your CV's to the local auto parts store and get refurbs for about $100 ea after core. That's what I usually do.
I'd just take your CV's to the local auto parts store and get refurbs for about $100 ea after core. That's what I usually do.
#5
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Hmm interesting, I didnt know that.
Thats why my first gen never had any CV problems even after being lifted....except for the CRANK CRREEEKKK CRUNCH noise. hehe
Thats why my first gen never had any CV problems even after being lifted....except for the CRANK CRREEEKKK CRUNCH noise. hehe
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so you knocked out the studs on the flange and used new bolts that u slid thru in the opposite direction - thats it?
That must make the job much easier. Any details on the new bolts?
That must make the job much easier. Any details on the new bolts?
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Originally Posted by SEAN_at_TLT
The first time you take the CV's out of a 1st gen IFS truck (1st gen IFS being 86-95) you should press out the studs on the drive-flanges and replace them with hardened bolts. That way you can remove CV's without disassembling anything else. I really like how the older trucks have a sealed front diff even without CV's.
I'd just take your CV's to the local auto parts store and get refurbs for about $100 ea after core. That's what I usually do.
I'd just take your CV's to the local auto parts store and get refurbs for about $100 ea after core. That's what I usually do.
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#8
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I just replaced a torn cv boot on my '95runner this summer and simply because it was the first time, it was a bitch. But absolutely do not replace the whole axle if the boot's just torn. A new boot cost me $15 at Napa. Like K-bomb said, the 4wd hub was the toughest part. but basically once you unbolt the axle from the diff., you've gotta angle it out where the bolts don't catch and then disconnect the hub on the outside of the axle. If you wanna PM me i'll be glad to go into more detail about how exactly i did it. Plus i've got a few pictures i believe.
#9
Originally Posted by Steveh29
That's what I did on my truck when putting a Tru-Track in the front axle. I used some stubby grade 8 bolts and had to use a drill to shave off the flutes that held the old studs in the axle flange. This let the bolts slide in easily. Furthermore on the short side of the axle, it's very hard to slide the bolts in without hitting the diff casting. I belive there's only one position where a bolt can slide in, so you have to rotate the axle flange to insert all the bolts on that side. I used rebuilt axle shafts that I got at BAP/GEON auto parts store.
Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town.
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Thanks all!
Originally Posted by SEAN_at_TLT
Bingo!
Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town.
Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town.
Thanks all! I replaced the axle without too much head ache! Should be good for another ten years!!!
#11
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Originally Posted by SEAN_at_TLT
I'd just take your CV's to the local auto parts store and get refurbs for about $100 ea after core. That's what I usually do.
#12
I'm not positive but typically the term refurbished implies factory parts rebuilt to factory specs. Basically as good as new...
Even if they only lasted half as long, it's still cheap and easy to replace them when you source them this way and once you have modified the diff. flanges to accept bolts not studs as described above.
Even if they only lasted half as long, it's still cheap and easy to replace them when you source them this way and once you have modified the diff. flanges to accept bolts not studs as described above.
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I purchased some aftermarket axles and installed them both in about 2 1/2 hours. My first run with them both inner boots shredded. I then replaced them with OEM boots-that took about 3 hours. I think the boots that come on reman axles are inferior, and if you have the time, just go to the dealer, get a boot kit, and replace them.
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Originally Posted by Marc P
I purchased some aftermarket axles and installed them both in about 2 1/2 hours. My first run with them both inner boots shredded. I then replaced them with OEM boots-that took about 3 hours. I think the boots that come on reman axles are inferior, and if you have the time, just go to the dealer, get a boot kit, and replace them.
That was exactly what I was worried about. I'm just going to get some OEM boots since the axle is fine.
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