Texas_Ace

What he said^

J2F42C

You don't even need new ones, just pull the old ones out with Vise Grips, clean off, reseal with the grey RTV, and then move on to more pressing issues. Also clean off the head with mineral spirits or acetone before putting on the new VC gasket.

Yota_Stomper

sorry guys... these things are metal


EDIT: added pic

Yota_Stomper

I'm sure you are correct... but sounds easier for me to go buy a closed end wrench.

EDIT: don't really think I need a new gasket... just need to make sure the bolts are more than finger tight

EDIT 2: This was correct and is what I did before the job was done... used grey colored "the right stuff" to put it back together

Texas_Ace

If you use an extension you might be able to get to it without removing it.

Yota_Stomper

tried that already no luck.

I'm going head to the shop and grab some tools... think they may still be open

Yota_Stomper

OK... back from store... removed the timing gear... left the metal semi-circular plugs alone.

Now, I think I already know the answer... but here goes... Am I supposed to remove the intake and exhaust camshafts myself?

or

Do I just leave those alone and remove the head and take it to the machine shop?
(still need to find a machine shop out here)

Texas_Ace

It depends on weather you can get at the headbolts with the cams in place. Some heads you can. some can't. You don't have to remove them to take the head off if you can get to the headbolts.

Yota_Stomper

Thanks... seems so obvious... you can tell I haven't done this before

sadly... I have to remove them... worse than that the damn things are
star bolts... or some screwy bolt that I don't have a socket for...

wait... acutally I think a regular 12 point socket would work (the same as a closed end wrench has)... but wouldn't ya know it... I have regular 6 sided sockets.... geez! looks like I have to go back to the store again for 12 point sockets

Texas_Ace

Yes, it is a 12 point socket.

Just be sure to remove the bolts in the correct method/order. Same and even more important for the head bolts.

Yota_Stomper

yeah... got it. thanks... just really frustrated right now...

starting to understand now why you kept suggesting replace the whole engine... pfft... by the time I'm done taking the head off it really isn't that much more work to just remove the the lower end and slap a new one in there.

thanks again for all the help

Texas_Ace

Yep, and you don't have to deal with all the detail work when swapping a whole engine. Just bolt out, bolt in. All the engine work is a lot easier out of the truck as well.

This is a good learning experience though and I am sure you will feel better prepared for any future car work.

Yota_Stomper

OK... removed the camshafts...

was careful to do them in order, remove them horiztal, etc.

now am I supposed to mark and remove each of the 16 lifters/shims ?
or can I just focus on removing the head at this point?

also, I'd need to go get a magnet to remove them cuz I don't have the tool to remove them.

Texas_Ace

You can focus on removing the head, better to leave the drivetrain as much intact as possible when giving it to the machine shop. In fact reinstalling the cams (still in the correct order ect) is a good idea to keep it all together when moving it around.

Yota_Stomper

Well I finally got the head off.

It was a horrible experience and the haynes manual left a lot to be desired for completing the task. I broke several thing's in the process and never cursed so much in my life. My neighbors are convinced I have tourette's.

The problem is quite obvious.


Realized that my exhaust header is cracked in the process... awesome.


So.. machine shops out here are quoting around $400-500... but I'm not sure I'm comparing apples to apples though. What exactly needs to the be done at the machine shop?

At this point I know I don't want a new engine... my muffler is shot, my header is cracked, I broke several of the electronic plastic plugs that attach to the engine, the bushings are destroyed on linkage to my stabilizer bar on the front suspension and my rear axle is leaking. A new engine just wouldn't make sense.

So I don't want to dump more money than I have to in this... but I really don't I want to put this nightmare back together... I talked to mechanic my friend suggested and he said about $500 for the machining and $600 for labor to put it back together.... I'm thinking I'll probably go that route.

It was hard enough getting the damn thing off... putting it back together... correctly without screwing it up... even if I could do it.. not sure I want to invest that much time.... $600 labor sounds like a good option

Yota_Stomper

posting of couple of pics of the engine compartment

Texas_Ace

Congrats on your first head removal. The first time is always the hardest but also a very good learning experience if you take it properly. I will point out that you made things harder on yourself by trying to leave everything in the engine bay and connected. Common first time mistake.

Better off taking everything out and properly sorting it in bags/boxes and storing them out of the way until it goes back together. Also take lots of pictures along the way, you will be surprised how useful they can be.

That all said you now see why I said that doing the whole engine is easier IMO. You simply take everything out at once and put it all back in at once. Half the number of bolts to play with.

Personally I think I would have pulled the engine either way, it is way easier to work on it out of the truck.

Far as where to go from here, if you can get a written quote for $1100 for someone to put it back together with a warranty, I would go that way. You cut the price in half by taking it apart yourself so congrats there.

nctom

Doing great, bud! Hang in there, you will be so happy when it's running again and you understand so much more about it.

B-Fake

Good job man, the first time getting in to the guts of an engine is the hardest for sure. Re-assembly is much easier than disassembly i my opinion. Now you don't have to worry about breaking stuff or stubborn bolts. As long as you get everything put where it belongs, torque everything right, and get the timing set right you're golden. I would try to tough it out, you're MORE than half way there. I agree with TA that taking everything out instead of just pulling it out of the way is the way to go. It seems like more work initially, but it saves you some headaches in the long run. Either way you go, you'll like having that lost power back.

Yota_Stomper

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

Yes... properly disconnecting the air plenium, EFI system, intake, and the whole gigantic fuster cluck of wires and hoses would have made it a lot easier I'm sure. Specifically the back bottom 2 bolts to remove the air intake would have come off one hell of a lot easier.

But here is the thing. All that for just 2 mother F'in bolts!!!

Literally, hours of work just so you can get at 2 bolts to remove them... it just seems like a poor design to me.

The way the stupid thing is made is that it requires a MAJOR dissassembly (not removal, but disassembly) of throttle, Air intake, EFI, plenium, sensors, etc. just so that you can disconnect the damn manifold from the cylinder head. That process looked more intricate and time consuming that the rest of the entire opertation.

However, my opinion of the design is irrelevant at this point... it is what it is.


My concern is... if I try to put it back together... can I connect the intake manifold to the head BEFORE I bolt the head back on??

I'm asking because it seems like a delicate process... the head has to sit just right and have the bolts torqued in a specific sequence, to the correct tightness and what not....

so would connecting the intake manifold first (just the first part.. not the whole fuster cluck with the plenium, etc) cause the head to not seat correctly?



Also... can someone tell me the correct torquing specs for these bolts? (EDIT: these are listed in the Haynes manual on the engine specifications page)
All of the links that I could find to the online FSM's were taken down thanks to Toyota's legal team.

Oh... last question... my friend suggested I just put some JB weld on the crack on the exhaust header? or is that not a good idea?