What is a BGB manual?

 

The big green book. It is the toyota factory service manual (FSM). It is what the dealers follow when servicing your car along with most mechanics.

 

know where I could get a free copy??

Tried to download the FSM from ttora...
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
but the links are dead... Toyota had them removed so that you have to buy them from them.

Also, everyone keeps saying the whole engine isn't that much... where can I look for a used engine? maybe I could just frieght ship it out here. In that case I'll just run this till it blows (which may be a while.. it is a yota) then replace the engine.

 

Do some searching for the FSM, there used to be some posted a few places. I only have the 5vz 4runner downloaded personally.

If you want to look up engine prices this is the best place besides local junk yards/craigslist/calling around.

http://www.car-part.com/

 

OK.. thanks for the lead.. cart-parts.com says there is one here on the island... right by where I live... 130K miles for $1850. I was kinda excited until I saw this.

http://www.toyotacarpart.com/default...FWlxQgodnysA4A

These guys have one brand spankin new $145 buck more... plus 350 shipped to hawaii.
I can get a brand new 0 mile engine shipped to me for only $2345!!!

Are these guys as good as they sound? The guy told me these don't come from toyota but are called OE equivalent. He said toyota buys some engines from the same factory they get theirs from and they just stamp the toyota symbol on them.

are these really the same motors? are they as good?
for a 3 year unlimited mile warranty I figure it's probably better than a used one with 130K miles on it.
what do you guys think?

 

Prices are higher out there. Here the same engine goes for about ~$1000.

Far as that other engine, I would do some googling. See what others say about it, never heard of them myself.

I know I would rather either of those new engine options then trying to fix your old one. If you have another car to drive doing it yourself, it is really not all that hard. Plus you could sell your old engine for a few hundred bucks I bet.

An engine lift, complete tool kit, and preferably some air tools although optional is all you really need.

Basically just take a lot of pictures, disconnect everything, swap over the external engine parts from your old engine to the new one, then put everything back the way you found it.

If you pull the transmission and engine together (harder to get in/out but sometimes worth the extra effort vs doing it in car), then there should not be anything that terribly hard. You might need a pair of helping hands for when you actually pull the engine and put it back in but otherwise it can be a 1 man job pretty easy.

Just make sure you plan out the engine lift so you can get it over the front of the truck.

Up to you though, you could try pulling the head first and see if the problem is obvious and easy to fix. If so then you could just fix your engine. If not then you could move onto a replacement. This would mean your truck is down for a little while but you would not be out any money to pull the head first.

Or you could just keep driving it until it stops running if you are set on a replacement engine. It might last awhile.

 

great write up on someone replacing burnt valves on this engine
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...xhaust-valves/

definitely looks like a job that is above my pay grade... took this guy 12 hours over 4 days and he had done one before... not sure if I'm ready to tackle a job like this.

what do think would be an easier job? replacing valves or just swaping out an engine?

 

What is easier for you depends on your skill set. Got to remember you would not be doing the head work yourself, that would be done by a machine shop. You would just be removing the head and reinstalling it.

If the truck can sit for awhile while you fix it then you can pull the head yourself to start and see what the issue is. From there you can make a much better educated decision on what to do about it.

You could also just drive it as is until it blows, which could take awhile or be next week.

Either job will be about the same difficulty, just a different kind of difficult.

Personally I would put a new motor in it but then I can get them for $1000 so it is an easier decision. For over $2k it is not such a simple choice.

 

really? I wouldn't be replacing, and gapping the valves with shims and all that or installing new springs checking the clearance, etc... I just take it off, give it to the machine shop, then put it back on? sorry for all the noobie questions.. but i've never done it b4.

 

Yep, pretty much. IF the problem ends up being in the head. I would say it is a 60/40 shot.

 

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Found one for ~$1800

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

 

I'm surprised nobody has offered to come to Hawaii and help for the price of a plane ticket!

 

@Robb235: that link won't take me directly there as the link doesn't have the search info in it.... but I believe that's the same engine I found.. it's in kapolei and has 130K miles on it. It's an option.. but I think for a little more I'd rather get a brand new one with a 5 year warranty. from APR Auto in colorado.

@nctom: lol... I know right. if anyone wants to come out here and show me how to do this I'll but a plane ticket... that's cheaper than the labor cost these mechanics are charging.

 

Well... after reading up in the haynes manual (and going through fits of anger and depression) I decided to give it a go and at least start by taking off the valve cover.

so while I was taking off the intake I tore the rubber boot that connects to the intake manifold in half and if that wasn't expensive enough I found that I have a hair line crack in exhaust header. OH... and my muffler is rusted through.

but here's the kicker.

as I started to take off my valve cover (the one's that leaking oil), I find out that 3 out of the 4 front bolts are only finger tight!!!

5 of the 10 bolts were finger tight and the other 5 were just barely a lil more than finger tight!

Do you guys think may be that's why I've lost compression in cylinder 1? or maybe that played a part in screwing up my front valve.

will post more later once i've pulled it apart more...

 

Valve cover bolts being loose is why it was leaking oil. Shouldn't have anything to do with compression loss.

 

What he said. Also the intake elbow you should be able to get a universal replacement for a few bucks depending on how it is setup.

 

thx guys... yeah...; that's clearly the reason it was leaking oil... lol.

good to know a universal replacement for the intake elbow won't be much.

but I can't seem to the the semi-circular plugs out to remove the timing sprocket.

PB blaster and mallet? it says nothing in the haynes manual about how to remove them.
the illustrations just all of a sudden show it removed. pfft... any suggestions?

just to be clear i would leave the camshafts in place when I take the cylinder head to be machined?

 

Picture of said plugs? if they are what I think they are, they don't have to be removed.

 

here is a pic


haynes shows it removed... I can't get my socket on it without removing it... If i had a large 3/4 closed wrench I could leave it in... may be time to go buy some tools

 

The semi circular plugs are just rubber- glued in place with rtv. They will come out with a putty knife. New ones will be in the $15 felpro valve cover gasket kit.