4x4Lamm

I have a 92 4runners sr5 4x4, I would like just a bit more clearance but a body lift is out of the question due to my brush gaurd. I've seen tons of rear coil spacers from 1/2'' on up to 3'' but none for the front. Does anybody know where I can get like a 1'' front coil spacer set?

AbramHart

I would go ahead and spend the extra $90 and get a 1.5 taller coil. With a spacer you still have the weak suspension in the rear. If you upgrade to a new coil you get a firmer ride and better towing capability. good luck

CTB

You don't have front coil springs...you have torsion bars. You "crank" them for more lift. Try a search on the topic...

AbramHart

Man I am a tard I did not realize that you wanted a front coil spacer. I was talking about a rear! Either way that is correct you have torsion bars. Crank them up but do not crank them unless you have manual or ADD hubs. Standard would be 14.5 to 15 from top of wheel to bottom of fender. Stay around that and you should be safe.

CTB

Actually, you really only want to crank them if you have manual hubs. ADD hubs are what come on the rig originally. You want to keep your CV angles as level as possible with ADD hubs.

AbramHart

Actually there are 3 types of system.. ADD, Manual, and automatic locking. Automatic you do not want to turn those up as they have muliple mechanical parts in them and lock in when they are needed automaticly. ADD hubs are just like a manual the only difference is the Manual you can lock and unlock the Add stays locked all the time. Add has a device built into the 3rd member that locks it in and out. The actuall hub is a steel cap with splines cut in it so yes you can turn these up without worring to much about them.

CTB

But your CV's are always turning with the ADD setup...that is why a lot of us to switch to manual hubs.

Robinhood150

Not quite. The reason you don't want to crank up the tbars too much is because at increased angles the CV boots tend to wear faster and thus tear easier. Since the ADD system makes the CVs turn all the time the boots will wear faster. With manual and automatic hubs the CVs do not turn when in 2wd (unless the manual hubs are locked).

Cranking the tbars has nothing to do with the hub strength. Most people do want to get rid of the auto hubs though because they are complicated, weaker, and unlock momentarily when reversing.

Flygtenstein

ADD is not a hub.

The drive flanges that would be standard on a 92 that did not have manual hubs have zero moving parts. They are literally flanges, nothing more.

Without manual hubs, when the wheels spin, the CV's spin.

For what it's worth, I have toasted more CV boots after my manual hub install than before.

Robinhood150

Why is that?

CTB

I knew that. I just said that for simplicity sake, as that is what he referred to earlier. Thanks for the correction anyway.

Flygtenstein

Sure thing CTB, just striving for clarity.

Steve, if I knew why I was going through more boots, I would fix it for sure. The next one is getting a non-steel clamp since that is where they are going on me. Perhaps not spinning is actually hurting that part of it? If you find out, let me know.

4x4Lamm

I didn't evenrealize I was trying to buy something that didn,t exist! Seening all those cheap spacers for 3rd gen 4Runners must have blinded me with envy. I did buy and put on Performance Products 25mm Torsion Bars and rear lift coils but the 33s still bite a little in a sharp breaking turn. Is there any other way to get an inch or so. A serious lift kit is a fourth of what I paid for the rig.