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Old 07-27-2004, 01:49 AM
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Auto tranny questions

Okay, so I've done a little searching and I'm ready to change out my auto tranny fluid with Amsoil and maybe put on an auto cooler (Hayden) while I'm at it. Here are my questions:

Is a job specific machine the easiest way I can get all 16 qts. of fluid out? Or is there another way I can do it at home that doesn't require me going to like Jiffy Lube or something?

With a switch to synthetic - will I have to do some kind of flush? Or can it be a simple drain and refill?

Is the tranny dipstick tube really the only good place to pour in?

With the auto tranny cooler - will I need to put in more fluid?

Sorry if any of these seem redundant. I did a little searching and I either didn't find the information I was looking for or I want to get a confirmation on what I've already read.

Thanks everyone!
Old 07-27-2004, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude

Is a job specific machine the easiest way I can get all 16 qts. of fluid out?
Yes, its the easyest way. http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
Or is there another way I can do it at home that doesn't require me going to like Jiffy Lube or something?
Yes there is a harder way too, it involves disconecting your oil cooler line and using your ATF oil pump to drain the ATF out while you pour in more. I've never done it, but it sounds very messy and of course you can't pour in the fluid even close to as fast as it will come out, so to avoid running the pump dry you must stop and restart a lot.

Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
With a switch to synthetic - will I have to do some kind of flush? Or can it be a simple drain and refill?
Since most synthetics are compatable with reg ATF you don't have to flush, but if you just drain and refill you'll only be replacing about 1/3 of the old ATF.

Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
Is the tranny dipstick tube really the only good place to pour in?
It was on my truck. Go slow too because if it backs up into the tube it may leak out of the joint in the tube and you'll have a mess to clean up (ask me how I know).

Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
With the auto tranny cooler - will I need to put in more fluid?
Yes you will need more because the new cooler will hold some volume of fluid.

Last edited by mt_goat; 07-27-2004 at 04:30 AM.
Old 07-27-2004, 05:52 AM
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I was able to find a quicky lube place that let me bring in my own oil and they gave me a break on the price. Don't expect a big discount though, they only pay about $1 a quart for the ATF they buy in 55 gal drums. Maybe about $15 worth for a flush.
Old 07-27-2004, 06:08 AM
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Is the tranny cooler ok to use, even if you don't have any other performance mods? Will it benefit me, or just a waste of money?
Old 07-27-2004, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by havic
Is the tranny cooler ok to use, even if you don't have any other performance mods? Will it benefit me, or just a waste of money?
Yes. I would recommend it to anyone with an auto. It doesn't hurt to add the cooler, and is extra insurance against it overheating.
Old 07-27-2004, 12:08 PM
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mt_goat:

Thanks for the info. I'll probably go change to Amsoil ATF and put in a cooler afterwards. Oy, time to go spend more money at the Amsoil site... :pat:
Old 07-28-2004, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
mt_goat:

Thanks for the info. I'll probably go change to Amsoil ATF and put in a cooler afterwards. Oy, time to go spend more money at the Amsoil site... :pat:
Not sure if this will work BUT wouldn't a simple way to change out all the fluid be to use the ATF oil pump as mentioned above. Disconnect the cooler, Put the "drain" line in a empty bucket, put the "return" line in a bucket filled with the new fluid. If it has a 16 qt capacity i would probably buy 18-19 quarts. As the pump works the old fluid should fill the empty bucket and the new fluid should go to the tranny.

When you are done you hook up the new tranny cooler cause you already have the lines off anyway. This way you don't have to go to a shop, you get all new fluid and the tranny cooler get installed too.
Old 07-28-2004, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Tacoma Dude
mt_goat:

Thanks for the info. I'll probably go change to Amsoil ATF and put in a cooler afterwards. Oy, time to go spend more money at the Amsoil site... :pat:
Yeah, your going to drop some cash to flush with Amsoil. I wish I could afford that. :cry:

Last edited by mt_goat; 07-28-2004 at 04:19 AM.
Old 07-28-2004, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bikeguy18974
Not sure if this will work BUT wouldn't a simple way to change out all the fluid be to use the ATF oil pump as mentioned above. Disconnect the cooler, Put the "drain" line in a empty bucket, put the "return" line in a bucket filled with the new fluid. If it has a 16 qt capacity i would probably buy 18-19 quarts. As the pump works the old fluid should fill the empty bucket and the new fluid should go to the tranny.

When you are done you hook up the new tranny cooler cause you already have the lines off anyway. This way you don't have to go to a shop, you get all new fluid and the tranny cooler get installed too.
This idea assumes there is a lot of suction at the return line. I don't think there is much suction there. Maybe if you were able to somehow seal off all the air leaks and create a closed, air-tight tranny case. The big air source would be the fill/dip stick tube. If you are thinking of trying this beware of something unexpected, like possible seal damage from turning your tranny into a vacuum canister.

Last edited by mt_goat; 07-28-2004 at 04:17 AM.
Old 07-28-2004, 05:06 AM
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As complex as an automatic transmission is, I'd be wary of using the pressure and return lines to flush it without some more research. Though i'd almost bet money that this is how the transmission shops do it. But I think they actually use a machine to force the fluid though without the engine/transmission running.

As for getting the fluid out, I pulled the pan and replaced the filter. Actually it's a screen and can be cleaned, but I just replaced it. I was amazed at how much fluid was trapped in the valve body until I took the filter off.

I don't know about the newer models, but my '94 doesn't have a pan gasket. It uses a sealant in place of the gasket. I would recommend the OEM Toyota sealant, but I'm sure aftermarket has suitable products. If you buy an aftermarket filter, you will probably get a gasket with it. Use it, don't use it, it doesn't really matter. If you do use it, reduce the torque on the pan bolts by about 10% as the they don't need to be as tight when using a gasket. Too much torque and you could warp the flange and have a leak.

Servicing the fluid in the transmission is an easy job. A messy one, but easy. If you don't need it power flushed, you can save bucks by doing it yourself. The synthetic fluids are all compatible with their dino equivalents so it's not required to flush out every bit of the old fluid. Mostly you just want get the dirty fluid out.
Old 07-28-2004, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 98 Joes
As complex as an automatic transmission is, I'd be wary of using the pressure and return lines to flush it without some more research. Though i'd almost bet money that this is how the transmission shops do it. But I think they actually use a machine to force the fluid though without the engine/transmission running.

As for getting the fluid out, I pulled the pan and replaced the filter. Actually it's a screen and can be cleaned, but I just replaced it. I was amazed at how much fluid was trapped in the valve body until I took the filter off.

I don't know about the newer models, but my '94 doesn't have a pan gasket. It uses a sealant in place of the gasket. I would recommend the OEM Toyota sealant, but I'm sure aftermarket has suitable products. If you buy an aftermarket filter, you will probably get a gasket with it. Use it, don't use it, it doesn't really matter. If you do use it, reduce the torque on the pan bolts by about 10% as the they don't need to be as tight when using a gasket. Too much torque and you could warp the flange and have a leak.

Servicing the fluid in the transmission is an easy job. A messy one, but easy. If you don't need it power flushed, you can save bucks by doing it yourself. The synthetic fluids are all compatible with their dino equivalents so it's not required to flush out every bit of the old fluid. Mostly you just want get the dirty fluid out.
Most of the flush machines around here use the vehicle's own oil pump to push the ATF out and into the flush machine through the oil cooler lines. The machine has two chambers seperated by a bladder. One chamber is filled with new ATF and one chamber is empty, The vehicle's engine is started and as the used ATF fills the empty side, the bladder moves and forces the new fluid into the vehicle. There is no other source of power for the machine ofter than the vehicle's own oil pump. Ideally, when the old ATF side is mostly full, the new ATF side will be mostly empty and the flush is over.

Here is a better explaination: http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlu...ush%20machine:

Last edited by mt_goat; 07-28-2004 at 01:22 PM.
Old 07-28-2004, 12:41 PM
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I've flushed mine using the method above- draining into a bucket while trying to pour in new. It was quite messy to say the least, but I think it worked. I drained the system the normal way (pulled plug). Refilled the system with new, put line in bucket, started engine, which shot out ATF damn fast, and tried to put new ATF as quickly as possible.
Old 07-28-2004, 08:21 PM
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So are you guys saying that I will need 15 quarts of amsoil TF for this job? Thats going to cost some big dough. What would happen if you used half amsoil,and half normal TF fluid?
Old 07-28-2004, 09:53 PM
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Where is the best place to have a flush done? I really don't want to go to any Jiffy Lube places because all those guys are idiots. I guess I'm looking at about $100 for this job.

Old 07-29-2004, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KC Slim
So are you guys saying that I will need 15 quarts of amsoil TF for this job? Thats going to cost some big dough. What would happen if you used half amsoil,and half normal TF fluid?
I took 17 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF to the lube place I used. I think it took 16 to do it. I was supervising every step, at one point I handed the guy a clean rag I had brought and ask him to wipe off the dirty fitting he was getting ready to attach to my baby.

I wouldn't mix the ATF brands on purpose for the flush. What I would consider is flushing with cheap ATF and then after driving for a while drain and refill with Amsoil ATF. A week before I did my flush I dropped the pan and changed the filter (not very dirty) and cleaned up the magnets and oil pan (very dirty) then refilled to the proper level with new ATF. I didn't want to be putting $80-$90 worth of clean ATF through a dirty filter and sludge filled oil pan.
Old 07-30-2004, 11:12 AM
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Thanks goat,well I might end up having to use plain atf I would love to use amsoil,but the funds dont allow it right now.
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