toy$$locost-

What program did you use to design that box?

 

toylocost, winisd looks good. 7.65" port length is too short. you would need at least 10" port length. winisd doesn't add displacement of the subwoofer or port. i would suggest you to build the subs and port firing toward to the taillight. It's your choice. I will post pics, if you don't like it or want to change anything let me know. I will be glad to help. i am assuming that you can fit 43" wide in the back of your 4runner... is 23" depth too big? that is a nice subwoofer program... what kind of program is that?

what do you think?

here are the pics...







does it make any sense?? LOL

 

dang i quit following this thread for a little and this is crazy but yea looking at that box that was posted i think the port is going to need to be even longer than 10" if its truly going to be 8.5 cubic feet. And damn thats going to beet because i only got one 15 and ive been pulled over for it 3 time's. Take a look i designed it on my computer and built it so i could hide it under my cover but still managed to get it 3.5 cubic feet I originally wanted it to be 5 cubic feet but I am happy with what i got.

 

Ok. Well i know this is a noob question but how do you get the door panels off to install some aftermarket speakers in the doors?

Tutorial anyone?
-Mark

 

1. find the pressure pens. they are around the door that is hidden when its closed. u push the sinter piece in and the pull them out. 2. on the back doors you have to use a flat head to pull off the arm rest thing just stick it under it and push up. 3. get the screw out from behind the door handle and put it out of the door. 4. use something to get the pressure pens out from inside the door.

This is on my 97 idk what year yours is but give me a little bit and ill go do it and take pictures and put them on here. Yea I am 17 and just got the swine so i am bored and its really not as bad as every one had made it out to be lol.

 

here are the pressure pens and door.

 

getting the arm rest off

 

to get the pressure pens from behind the panel just use a flat head and pop them off. Once all of them have released slide the door up. once its off tilt the panel to get it out of the way of the handle that will be in your way. then you have to unplug the wire that controls the window.

 

the red things are the pressure pens inside the panel. There is my door speaker I got from kicker. The last picture is that wire that plugs into the window control that you have to pull out, and don't forget to put it back in before you put it together or else your window wont work. I forgot once and couldn't figure out why my window didn't work then i realized what i forgot.

I hope this helps and if you are ordering door speakers make sure u get the attachments because the new speakers are going to be a different size and wont fit in the original bracket.

 

Nope, no room for that. Its only 18.5 inches to the back of the wheel wells. And 36 inches between the wheel wells. And If I put the subs and port facing the back I'd have to push it off the back wall 4 more inches which would put it way into the wheel wells.

Now I'm thinking just make it 36 inches wide, 16 inches tall (top of the seats), and 34 inches deep (leave 4 inches for the subs to breathe).

This is what it gives me on 12volt...


Renderings...




Dont know how long the port needs to be but max vertical and horizontal I can go is 14.5 x 4. If thats not enough I can alter the box to fit what I need but this thing is filling up the whole back already.

And my renderings are done using Google SketchUp. Its a free simple CAD program from Google. There are tutorials for EVERYTHING and lots of files availible to import. I could actually import some subs into the model but I dont have time right now.

 

Hey Tjacob, Thanks man. I got a 99 and it is almost exactly the same but I figured it out. Thanks dude. That helped alot.

 

i like your new design box a lot. the port is to small for 8.5 cuft. 14.5x4 is only 54 square inches. it will not breathe very well. the rule of thumb is 10-14 square inches per cubic feet. at least 80 square inches would be good.

i know it can be frustrating when designing a ported box. but it's worth it in the end. i never look back to sealed box again.

edit: on the second thought, i'm gonna steal your idea on that new design box. I like that better than port on the side.

 

 

I'm glad you like my design. I like it too. And I really like the size and shape of it so I dont want to modify it. Can you tell me if I keep that same port on the front what size should I make a second one on the back of the box? WinISD is pretty confusing for me on the ports.

 

Or maybe 3 ports? Something like this?

 

i don't think that is even possible because you will probably mess up tuning frequency. and maybe its gonna sound like crap.

 

Ok I did some research and yes it is possible to have two ports. No, I cant explain and I'm not going to build a box with two ports... yet.

But in the last couple of days I have finalized my design.
Its going to be...
8.5 cubic feet (after subtracting the displacement of the subs and port)
90 square inches of port 12 inches long
tuned to 38hz
I'll let the pics do the talking now...

 

ah, yes. the infamous crx style box. subs up, port back. it works the best in the CRX but works well in the suv. go for it don't forget to bracing it

 

Aight, finally started cutting. Not much to show but I took pics anyways for all the pics whores.

10 pieces cut. 6 for the box. 4 for the port. Might cut another to make the subs sit "flush" in the box, and for a little extra strength.


I over-calculated and bought too much wood. I used 1.2 of the 3 sheets I bought. Oh well at least it wasn't the other way around.

 

Worked on the port a little tonight to try to get back in the groove. I've got alot more work on just the port.

It is amazingly frustrating how much wood I've cut in my life and I still cant get straight lines and square pieces.