Add Mod
#1
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#2
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im in the process of removing two sets of manual hubs from my donor vehicles, rebuilding them and doing this mod. i was hoping someone would have some input also. i guess we will have to check back every now and then.
lee
lee
#4
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I did this when I swapped in 5.29's. I had a separate pig set up with the gears. This housing had the non-add shafts attached, so we just installed them with the pig and plugged the vacuum lines.
The benefit? Simpler, so less parts to break.
The benefit? Simpler, so less parts to break.
#6
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keep the add or remove it?
Originally Posted by Cebby
I did this when I swapped in 5.29's. I had a separate pig set up with the gears. This housing had the non-add shafts attached, so we just installed them with the pig and plugged the vacuum lines.
The benefit? Simpler, so less parts to break.
The benefit? Simpler, so less parts to break.
what would be the benefit of removing the add system altogether? would it operate like my old 86 runner? it was a 4 banger 5 spd with manual hubs. what would i gain by keeping the add system? if all it is is shift on the fly capability, then ill dump it. i usually shift the tc when im stopped, using it on the trails i would just lock the hubs before hand and unlock when im done. same thing for winter driving, lock the hubs and shift the tc when needed. hope this is making some sense, thanks for any input.
lee
#7
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Someone correct or validate me on this. Here's my take...
ADD diff tubes (with actuator) and drive plates = Standard diff tubes (no actuator) and manual hubs.
The shift on the fly is a function of the T-case. The "convenience" of ADD is that you never have get out to lock your hubs. The penalty for this is CV wear since they are always turning with the ADD setup (not under load though until you shift into 4WD)
Adding manual hubs to reduce CV wear makes having ADD a redundancy. Basically you have two disconnection points from the driveline with ADD and manual hubs. You only need one.
ADD diff tubes (with actuator) and drive plates = Standard diff tubes (no actuator) and manual hubs.
The shift on the fly is a function of the T-case. The "convenience" of ADD is that you never have get out to lock your hubs. The penalty for this is CV wear since they are always turning with the ADD setup (not under load though until you shift into 4WD)
Adding manual hubs to reduce CV wear makes having ADD a redundancy. Basically you have two disconnection points from the driveline with ADD and manual hubs. You only need one.
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#8
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im liking this!
Originally Posted by Cebby
Someone correct or validate me on this. Here's my take...
ADD diff tubes (with actuator) and drive plates = Standard diff tubes (no actuator) and manual hubs.
The shift on the fly is a function of the T-case. The "convenience" of ADD is that you never have get out to lock your hubs. The penalty for this is CV wear since they are always turning with the ADD setup (not under load though until you shift into 4WD)
Adding manual hubs to reduce CV wear makes having ADD a redundancy. Basically you have two disconnection points from the driveline with ADD and manual hubs. You only need one.
ADD diff tubes (with actuator) and drive plates = Standard diff tubes (no actuator) and manual hubs.
The shift on the fly is a function of the T-case. The "convenience" of ADD is that you never have get out to lock your hubs. The penalty for this is CV wear since they are always turning with the ADD setup (not under load though until you shift into 4WD)
Adding manual hubs to reduce CV wear makes having ADD a redundancy. Basically you have two disconnection points from the driveline with ADD and manual hubs. You only need one.
thats what im looking for! just got in from work and figured id better check and see if anyone had commented on this. unless anyone else replies differently, the add system will be history. thank you for shedding some light on this, i was beginning to wonder if i would ever get an answer one way or the other. anyone able to rebut? willing to look at all suggestions before making a final decision.
lee
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