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3VZ Help

Old 10-25-2004, 06:16 PM
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3VZ Help

I have a 1991 4x4 3VZ-E automatic. I have already replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, TPS and checked for vacuum leaks. The problem that I am having is at running temperature if I try to start the vehicle it dies, I can apply gas to keep it running. Most of the time in the morning it will run for a little bit. If I come to a stop it dies, I have to keep my foot on the brake and at the same time continue to give it gas. I have also noticed that lately if I am going and just let off of the gas I can hear a relay kick in the dash. I traced the relay down and it is located above the ECU, its labeled circuit opening relay. This problem occurs regardless if the A/C is on or off. As of right now it does not have any stored engine codes before I think it gave me 41 for the TPS, I replaced it with a supposedly good used one with no change so I put the original one back on. If anyone has any ideas please let me know!
Old 10-25-2004, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by belkin1323
I have a 1991 4x4 3VZ-E automatic. I have already replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, TPS and checked for vacuum leaks. The problem that I am having is at running temperature if I try to start the vehicle it dies, I can apply gas to keep it running. Most of the time in the morning it will run for a little bit. If I come to a stop it dies, I have to keep my foot on the brake and at the same time continue to give it gas. I have also noticed that lately if I am going and just let off of the gas I can hear a relay kick in the dash. I traced the relay down and it is located above the ECU, its labeled circuit opening relay. This problem occurs regardless if the A/C is on or off. As of right now it does not have any stored engine codes before I think it gave me 41 for the TPS, I replaced it with a supposedly good used one with no change so I put the original one back on. If anyone has any ideas please let me know!
it could be afm? is it smoking maybe its not geting fuel
Old 10-25-2004, 06:47 PM
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I don't have too many thoughts on it as I just bought my truck a while back, but my truck did it a little. I adjusted the idle and everything was cool after that...also check the o2 sensor on the exhaust. Just unplug it and see if the engine runs any better.....it'll throw a code, but the engine will run better if the sensor is bad. You'll be able to tell..then just replace the sensor
Old 10-25-2004, 06:48 PM
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possible MAF sensor problem?
Old 10-25-2004, 08:23 PM
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Replay the EFI relay under the hood ... if problem contiues ... re replace the circuit cut out relay nex to ECU. Toy fuel injection relays are dependent on the main EFI and the second cut off relay. Good luck.
Old 10-26-2004, 04:09 PM
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I was able to test the VAF meter it was at 332 ohms, in spec according to Chiltons. On the EFI relay the leads that were suppose to be open were open and the leads that were suppose to be closed were closed. Thanks for the input I'll try some of the others tomorrow. Please keep the ideas coming or else I'll have to breakdown and take it to the "stealership".
Old 10-26-2004, 04:25 PM
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I know it's not the Cat, I pulled it off and still had the same results.
Old 10-26-2004, 04:51 PM
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According to the factory manual I say it has to do with the fuel pump system circuit.
Looking at it, there is a Circuit Opening Relay involved and the fuel pump switch(volume air flow meter) activates that COR.
Try this link:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...28fuelpump.pdf

Last edited by Astralplane; 10-26-2004 at 05:00 PM.
Old 11-01-2004, 03:02 PM
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I reinstalled the TPS and used a multi-meter and feeler gauge to set it, still no change.
I jumpered the B and FP connecters and can hear the fuel pump running and can feel it on the regulator. I also try to start it like this to bypass the switch in the AFM, but still there was no change. I checked the resistance on the fuel injectors and they're in spec. Today the trunk did not start really messing up until the clutch fan kicked off. Once the truck was warm, I ran 1/3 can of SeaFoam down the PCV hose. Let it set for five minutes and ran it down the road, still no change. I don't know if the 3VZ and the 22RE's AFM are the same but Chiltons only show how to test two leads which tested good. Going off the following site http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml I did the first three tests for the fist and third the ohms were around 330. For the second test I was only getting .4 ohms, there again I don't know if this is applicable for the 3VZ. Also does anyone know how to test the Circuit Opening Relay as far as which leads should read what? Thanks for your help!
Old 11-02-2004, 06:14 AM
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Acorrding to the "KISS" method. Re-check what you have already done. My 3vze had similar problems. it was after I changed my air filter, there was a tiny gap at the bottom of the bellows. it allowed too much air in the system after the AFM. unless I kept it at high RPM's it would die..
Old 11-03-2004, 10:02 AM
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Im guessing its the MAF, Make sure you have a good ground on cable attached to it and make sure the conection going to it is all the way in and not loose. Mine drove me nuts after I put in a new motor.
Old 03-17-2011, 04:05 PM
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Just wondering...did you ever find out if the 3vz afm is the same as the 22re afm?? cuz i cant find a 22re afm at a junk yard but i fonud a 3vz afm id like to robb the guts out of to put it in my 3 in. supra afm...sry to revive an ancient thread. im searching with no results. THNX!!
Old 03-17-2011, 04:38 PM
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i have a 93 toy pick up with 3vz cant get ecu to fire ignition nor can i get check engeine light so i can run code test have put factory ecu in still no change
Old 03-17-2011, 04:57 PM
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cestes look at this thread, might be the same problem.


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-start-228230/
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