Hi everyone

Looking for a 3rd gen efan conversion found some great info and items to put together a good efan conversion as I did for the 2nd gens.

Well the parts and info I found are not 100%accurate or final so any improvement is welcome
If anyone can or have the parts to do the test will be great!

The parts:

07-11 jeep wrangler efan dorman 620-055 (must include the resistor switch) or 620-052 fan assembly
VW thermal fan switch (3 pin)-this is the tricky part match the switch with the 3rd gen tsat.

3rd gens tstat is rated at 82c not sure if that rate is for start to open or fully open so any help here will be great.

Vw switches come in some rates so which one to use??? Theres a tip that vw switches have a 9-10 or maybe a 6 degree margin to open and close,so in theory it kicks at 91c and then shut off at 81c and we have a 82c tstat.

191959481C or 191959481A this one is rated at 91c-102c
This one kicks in the 1st speed at 195f and the s2nd speed at 215f

701959481 this one is colder 87-93c if we apply the 9-10 margin it will shut off the fan at 77-76c cooler than the tstat so maybe this one wont work.

1H0698481B or 1J0959481A those 2 are 95-102c rated
1st speed will kick at 203f and turn off at 86-85c (185f)
2nd speed at 215f and turn off at maybe 96c
This one feels a bit hot maybe for cold temps areas

Wahler 601795D this one is rated at 95c
Wahler 603795D 95c

ECHFS151 switch rated it says it Close At 1st 190-209f 2nd Close At 209-226f maybe this one will do the work just fine!!

ECHFS255 Circuit 1 Normally Open, Closes At 198 Deg. F.; Circuit 2 Normally Open, Closes At 221 Deg. F

Or maybe a BMW switch
61311378073 rated for 91-99c
Bmw plug 61131378410 need 1
Bmw terminal wires 61130006665 need 2
Bmw terminal wire small 61130005199 need 1 (ground)

Or JY plug ,bullet terminals or weld in
BMw switches are M14x1.5 VW swtices are M22x1.5

M22 weld bung can be found in ebay item number 201307178570
We also need a 35mm (1 3/8) hose coupler joiner to weld the bung for the switch or in the case of vw switches thers a seller on ebay who makes a saab style coupler with a m22 bung welded (pricy)the item numner is 111183467790

For the controller lets go easy with the Volvo 2 speed fan relay,plenty of them on ebay.

Well that’s it,any info or improvement will be welcome at the end this is for all of us 3rd gen owners!!

 

I just gotta ask why I have removed quite a few because the break at the worst time.

Then if you never leave Concrete and Black Top you should be fine.

Then maybe you have a engine swapped in that the crank pulley is 1/2" from the radiator and plan to mount the fan in front of the radiator.

 

What's wrong with the stock fan? Mine is still acting like a fan at 337,000 miles.



Andreas

 

the 2nd gen i owned never failed even offroading it never showed a sign of failure.

3rd gen 4runners an d tacos have 6 inches maybe a 1/4 more between radiator core and crank pulley so theres plenty of space.

 

well if you live in a flat area and cooler weather than mine theres no big issue with the stock fan but in my case i live in an island with mixed terrain and plenty of hills then you start to hate the clutch fan noise even when the cooling system is in excellent condition.

tropical weather+fan clutch=NOISE AND POWER LOSS

 

Best of luck .

I live in the flat land nothing over 2500'


and it never gets hot I don`t think it was over 100 degrees once this year .

 

another possible efan
Dorman 620-701

 

Just a word of caution, using an aftermarket fan may not last as long as a used factory fan. not sure about PR, but state side I can buy 3 eFan swaps(controller, fan relays...) for the price on one aftermarket fan.....just sayin.

I have had manual clutch fans die over the years I have owned Toyotas. If your truck never sees rush hour traffic, or sitting on the trail creeping, you will probably never know your fan clutch has died. A bad fan clutch can either lock up totally robbing the engine of power, but still cooling as normal. Or it can fail to the point where it isn't spinning as fast as it should producing a scenario for overheating.

Electronic fan swaps offer a few advantages over the manual fan...
1. Reduced noise to help diagnose engine issues.
2. Fan doesn't always run, so engine can spin a bit more freely(however the alternator will put a strain on the engine if not sized appropriately.
3. eFan can be shut off for water crossings or deep mud so to not damage the blades.
4. IF the engine is overheating, turning off the vehicle and letting the fan cool the radiator reduces time down.

 

Are you trying to go to sleep that noise bothers you?

Power loss is at most 1/4hp. If you think you are losing like 5hp that's nonsense. A 5hp fan would knock you over.

 

I see a Hater and around!!
i bet hes gattering parts around to start the efan conversion!!!
haters will be haters!!!! :l of::y ap:

 

Here is some math for you.

A typical small automotive alternator is about 50-60% efficient at converting crank power into electrical energy.

The DC motor in an electric fan is about 70-80% efficient.

So if the Taurus fan for example takes in 30amps @ 13.8v = 414 watts = 0.5 hp.

0.5 hp * 0.75 (75% efficient) = 0.375 hp real output

0.5hp * 2 (50% efficient) = 1 hp at the crank via belt to alternator

So you get a 0.375 hp fan output for 1 hp at the crank cost.

The stock fan when fully locked flows about the same as a Taurus, so you get a 0.375 hp fan for 0.375 hp fan from the crank.

All other times, the clutch fan is not spinning anywhere near full lock, so it's at roughly 1/10th of 0.375 hp = 0.0375 hp.

 

Hey get your math and facts out of here. We prefer speculation and hearsay. Also I run 13 second 1/4 miles with stock fan and no problems. Course if you have 400 crank HP, you can afford that .5 hp loss.

 

Sir your calculations are amazing!!! with that knowledge you should be working in the nasa or adidas!!!!

But if take an suv and do somes tests uphill with efan and fan clutch is obvious the truck will perform better with the efan.not a rocket but a bit faster to your usual speeds at same location. so better hp usage and less load to the engine,better mpgs but i asume you also have an amazing calculation for the mpgs!!! do you?

the only way to have proof of the amount of hp that the fan clutch robs is to use a dyno,well since we the 99.9% diy quasi engineers here dont have one in home judge your own experience or keep calculating how much you have to work,earn or whatever it takes you to buy your own dyno and post your results i bet you dont need one to realize that a fan clutch robs power when fully engaged.

Haters have calculators and know how to copy paste bs form other sites with out proving them!!

 

Do you always not believe anything you can't understand?

Like if I tell you that 1 liter of water weighs 1 kilogram, will you need to put it on a scale to believe it?

There is nothing tough to understand here, just a few basic conversions between energy units.