vang_22re's 3rd gen pickup build thread
Jan 19, 2012 | 09:28 AM
#21
I was thinking about that.... Cuz I can't see 2 years troublefree driving with the clutch disc in backwards.... It's POSSIBLE, I suppose, since I can't remember off hand/without those threads in front of me or a clutch kit in front of me.... but I DO have pictures of my clutch kit and install....AND THIS CAME UP, IIRC! lol.
I'll be back, if I can dig up those pics/the permalink of that area of my build.
I'll be back, if I can dig up those pics/the permalink of that area of my build.
Jan 19, 2012 | 10:05 AM
#22
Here's a pic of my kit, "TM Side" clearly on the one side... Make sure it looks like that, the lip on the flange of the outside of the portion that slides onto the input shaft....
Jan 19, 2012 | 03:34 PM
#23
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Washington
What do you mean by 'lots of pressure'? There should be some, and normally the oil cap is never removed while it's running... Have you ever filled one of these with oil and forgot to put the cap on and then ran it? MESSYYYYY! lol.
The PCV should relieve some of that pressure back into the plenum.... Did you replace the PCV when you did all this??????? It might even cause some blue smoke, because if it's unable to release the pressure in the top end, it's gotta go somewhere.
The PCV should relieve some of that pressure back into the plenum.... Did you replace the PCV when you did all this??????? It might even cause some blue smoke, because if it's unable to release the pressure in the top end, it's gotta go somewhere.
Jan 19, 2012 | 03:40 PM
#24
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Very strange on the T/M side being backward and not having HUGE tail/tell! It should have been SCREAMING with 'GRINGFGRRRRRRRSHHHHHHHH' and other ugly sounds, not so poorly described as I just did! lol
.50 over?Ahhhhh, well, that would explain quite a bit. Take a dial indicator and make SURE them holes are ROUND, ya know? Measure four times in each spot as you come up from the bottom, 12/3/6 and 9 oclock, and compare. There are limits with that, and you'll find out soon enough. You've gone to all this trouble, make sure you wouldn't just be better off with a new short block, ya know, Vang? (YES< you could very well just bore this out, again.... but next up is .60 over..... Might not be optimal when you're now ordering rings all over again, right?) What I'm saying is; If you DO need another bore, which I hope you don't, ....then you're gonna probably want new pistons again, .60 ..... and why do that? For that cost you could probably find another block for cheap that will only need a 20over(.50MM)..... Usually around 80-100$..... Get to keep the crank in it, all the other innards,.....then just slap your pistons for the .50mm over motor into the next block, get the right rings and call it a day..... just sayin. Anywayyyyyy, I HOPE AND PRAY you don't need more than just a re-ring, so just know that I'm only thinking outloud.... not trying to be negative, PROMISE! lol
.50 over?Ahhhhh, well, that would explain quite a bit. Take a dial indicator and make SURE them holes are ROUND, ya know? Measure four times in each spot as you come up from the bottom, 12/3/6 and 9 oclock, and compare. There are limits with that, and you'll find out soon enough. You've gone to all this trouble, make sure you wouldn't just be better off with a new short block, ya know, Vang? (YES< you could very well just bore this out, again.... but next up is .60 over..... Might not be optimal when you're now ordering rings all over again, right?) What I'm saying is; If you DO need another bore, which I hope you don't, ....then you're gonna probably want new pistons again, .60 ..... and why do that? For that cost you could probably find another block for cheap that will only need a 20over(.50MM)..... Usually around 80-100$..... Get to keep the crank in it, all the other innards,.....then just slap your pistons for the .50mm over motor into the next block, get the right rings and call it a day..... just sayin. Anywayyyyyy, I HOPE AND PRAY you don't need more than just a re-ring, so just know that I'm only thinking outloud.... not trying to be negative, PROMISE! lol
the piston to wall clearance on a 22re should be in the neighborhood of .001 - .0018. Ill go check alldata real quick.Edit: Oops i was wrong. direct from alldatapro.com - Piston Clearance 0.0006-0.0014 in
With clearances that tight, you dont want to be any bigger because of oil consumption issues and any tighter and the piston simply wont go in. another thing to check while you are in there is ring gap. should be:
Piston Ring End Gap Top 0.0098-0.0185 in
Second 0.0236-0.0323 in
Oil 0.0079-0.0224 in
piston ring end gap is another thing that can cause oil conrol issues and loss of compression.
Last edited by truckman1966; Jan 19, 2012 at 03:45 PM.
Jan 19, 2012 | 07:36 PM
#25
i hate to rain on your parade chef, but pistons need to be bore matched. a good machinist wont bore a block without a set of pistons to measure. and if i remember correctly the piston to wall clearance on a 22re should be in the neighborhood of .001 - .0018. Ill go check alldata real quick.
Edit: Oops i was wrong. direct from alldatapro.com - Piston Clearance 0.0006-0.0014 in
With clearances that tight, you dont want to be any bigger because of oil consumption issues and any tighter and the piston simply wont go in. another thing to check while you are in there is ring gap. should be:
Piston Ring End Gap Top 0.0098-0.0185 in
Second 0.0236-0.0323 in
Oil 0.0079-0.0224 in
piston ring end gap is another thing that can cause oil conrol issues and loss of compression.
the piston to wall clearance on a 22re should be in the neighborhood of .001 - .0018. Ill go check alldata real quick.Edit: Oops i was wrong. direct from alldatapro.com - Piston Clearance 0.0006-0.0014 in
With clearances that tight, you dont want to be any bigger because of oil consumption issues and any tighter and the piston simply wont go in. another thing to check while you are in there is ring gap. should be:
Piston Ring End Gap Top 0.0098-0.0185 in
Second 0.0236-0.0323 in
Oil 0.0079-0.0224 in
piston ring end gap is another thing that can cause oil conrol issues and loss of compression.
That's why I went with the replacement block, Truckman(aside from the CHUNK missing in the front of the block thanks to my machinist, lol).... I was able to reuse those fairly new(5K) pistons with new Hastings-USA rings and new bearings and used the new to me crank at 10-10(woot, lol)..... 6K later, it's purring and running like a raped ape(Ok, for a 22re! hahaha). BUT, if his holes are egged out, like I mentioned, they he'd have to go even bigger and start with fresh pistons.....
Anyway, update us soon, Vang, ya heah?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jan 19, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
Jan 19, 2012 | 08:05 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, Ca
Same exact clutch just a lot more dirty haha but that side on your picture was laying against the flywheel. Flat side was twords the tranny stupid PO haha
I used sealed-pro piston rings from oriellys auto part but gona switch rings...maybe cause i still have a 90 day limited warranty hahaha
But any real update are going to have to wait till the weekends. I get off work and it get too dark around this time of year to work on the car..idid i mention the car is at my parents hahaha
I used sealed-pro piston rings from oriellys auto part but gona switch rings...maybe cause i still have a 90 day limited warranty hahaha
But any real update are going to have to wait till the weekends. I get off work and it get too dark around this time of year to work on the car..idid i mention the car is at my parents hahaha
Jan 20, 2012 | 02:31 PM
#27
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Actually, what I meant was, 'it's already bored over .50, and he only honed the block and put stock rings on the .50 over pistons... So make sure the block is clean, slap in the 'right' rings for those pistons that the PO installed and you should be ok, granting, as I also mentioned, ''that they're not egged out''.
That's why I went with the replacement block, Truckman(aside from the CHUNK missing in the front of the block thanks to my machinist, lol).... I was able to reuse those fairly new(5K) pistons with new Hastings-USA rings and new bearings and used the new to me crank at 10-10(woot, lol)..... 6K later, it's purring and running like a raped ape(Ok, for a 22re! hahaha). BUT, if his holes are egged out, like I mentioned, they he'd have to go even bigger and start with fresh pistons.....
Anyway, update us soon, Vang, ya heah?
That's why I went with the replacement block, Truckman(aside from the CHUNK missing in the front of the block thanks to my machinist, lol).... I was able to reuse those fairly new(5K) pistons with new Hastings-USA rings and new bearings and used the new to me crank at 10-10(woot, lol)..... 6K later, it's purring and running like a raped ape(Ok, for a 22re! hahaha). BUT, if his holes are egged out, like I mentioned, they he'd have to go even bigger and start with fresh pistons.....
Anyway, update us soon, Vang, ya heah?
Jan 20, 2012 | 02:44 PM
#28
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Same exact clutch just a lot more dirty haha but that side on your picture was laying against the flywheel. Flat side was twords the tranny stupid PO haha
I used sealed-pro piston rings from oriellys auto part but gona switch rings...maybe cause i still have a 90 day limited warranty hahaha
But any real update are going to have to wait till the weekends. I get off work and it get too dark around this time of year to work on the car..idid i mention the car is at my parents hahaha
I used sealed-pro piston rings from oriellys auto part but gona switch rings...maybe cause i still have a 90 day limited warranty hahaha
But any real update are going to have to wait till the weekends. I get off work and it get too dark around this time of year to work on the car..idid i mention the car is at my parents hahaha
Jan 20, 2012 | 06:40 PM
#31
Oh I know, Truckman, and fully agree.... no need, that's what I was tellin him. I just mentioned mine cuz I 're-used' what I could, responsibly, and it ended up being cheap as heck, considering what I got, lol(Plus, well, I did do much of the work, and even that was a GREAT experience/worth it!)... I would have LOVED not having to go as far as I did the second time... but, well, the first machinist pretty much left me with a situation that it was the best choice for 'peace of mind' 
KILL IT, VANG! Can't wait for the update, hope all goes smoothly, later
KILL IT, VANG! Can't wait for the update, hope all goes smoothly, later
Jan 21, 2012 | 03:19 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, Ca
Sorry no updates today about the rebuild. It was a beautiful day so the girlfriend wanted to take the boys(dogs) to the park
Had a blast while i was there i saw a 2nd gen runner sporting a huge marlin crawler sticker. Talk to him and he was a pretty cool guy. He was also in the dog park too
Had a blast while i was there i saw a 2nd gen runner sporting a huge marlin crawler sticker. Talk to him and he was a pretty cool guy. He was also in the dog park too
Jan 22, 2012 | 11:08 AM
#35
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, Ca
Went to go pick up the new rings today but turns out they couldn't find it in the inventory 
so they ordered a new set got to give it a couple more days till it arrives 
I should just post up armor builds that's already on the truck while we wait
so they ordered a new set got to give it a couple more days till it arrives I should just post up armor builds that's already on the truck while we wait
Jan 22, 2012 | 12:33 PM
#37
Now you've joined the "HURRY UP A WAIT!" crowd.... WELCOME, here's your seat.....NO GET UP, ...no, please sit, ......NO WAIT, GET UP! lol....... SUX, but at least it's most likely going to be a relatively evasive procedure compared to rebuilding completely.... Sorry for the wait, man.
Jan 24, 2012 | 05:36 PM
#38
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, Ca
alrite all...i cant find the battery charger for the aromor camera but do have pic if the engine taken out that was on a different camera. ill post them up as soon as i find the charger. let me know if pic are too smart so i can resize
this is the garage. in the middle is an 3vz finishing rebuild but now done and far right behind the green gas tank is where my engine is
22re ready to be taken apart
dirty engine bay that im probably not going to wash haha
my buddy jason snagged a pic of me pulling off the head
and waaala!!! OIL
my work bench
T/M side on top...this side was against the flywheel
ran across this pic..no lockers yet and rolling on 33x10.50...no problem
this is the garage. in the middle is an 3vz finishing rebuild but now done and far right behind the green gas tank is where my engine is
22re ready to be taken apart
dirty engine bay that im probably not going to wash haha
my buddy jason snagged a pic of me pulling off the head
and waaala!!! OIL
my work bench
T/M side on top...this side was against the flywheel
ran across this pic..no lockers yet and rolling on 33x10.50...no problem
