rustED's 87' 4Runner Build
#221
that sucks Ed, at least you made it home in one piece.
I was going to do a plate bumper on the 94 with out a upper hoop but I will be adding one just got cases like this.
I have hit 3 or 4 deer in my 30+ years of driving, knock on wood, none of the damage has been too bad...
I was going to do a plate bumper on the 94 with out a upper hoop but I will be adding one just got cases like this.
I have hit 3 or 4 deer in my 30+ years of driving, knock on wood, none of the damage has been too bad...
#222
Ouch!!! You have had some bad luck lately with trucks. You might be able to get a jack and some wood and push the core support out. If you have to replace the core support, it is not that bad of a job. I had to on my 86. I just bolted mine in and have no intentions of welding it back together. If you do have to replace the core support, get a spot weld cutter. It is a drill bit that makes cutting the spot welds easy. Dont try and drill them out. Harbor Freight has them for like $6. It looks bad and you will need to get several parts, but I dont think it is near as bad as it looks. The worse part I think is getting the inner fender lined back up.
Your trailer is looking great. Might want to consider some Mad Max bumper for the deer. I nearly hit one a few days ago. Not the way I like to go deer hunting.
Your trailer is looking great. Might want to consider some Mad Max bumper for the deer. I nearly hit one a few days ago. Not the way I like to go deer hunting.
I pulled a core support incase I need to replace mine. I did it without a spot weld cutter and it was a long process. I sure hope I can bend my current one back into place as I'm not looking forward to swapping them.
#223
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that sucks Ed, at least you made it home in one piece.
I was going to do a plate bumper on the 94 with out a upper hoop but I will be adding one just got cases like this.
I have hit 3 or 4 deer in my 30+ years of driving, knock on wood, none of the damage has been too bad...
I was going to do a plate bumper on the 94 with out a upper hoop but I will be adding one just got cases like this.
I have hit 3 or 4 deer in my 30+ years of driving, knock on wood, none of the damage has been too bad...
I'm hoping I can straighten my current one as well, but it doesn't look very promising. I think I will invest in the spot weld cutter if it comes to that.
Last edited by rustED; Sep 24, 2016 at 05:15 AM. Reason: autocorrect sucks
#227
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Thanks Tom...I'll have a post up in a few minutes with pics of my temporary Frankstein fix, lol.
#228
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Well did a little "body work" today.

^^^Body work tools of choice



^^^"before" pics of the damage...."after" pics below




^^^I Frankenstein'D some temporary repairs out of parts I had laying around. Drivers side headlight bucket is modified off of a 79' ford F250. Its a mounted a little lower than stock, but works for now. The turn signal is old LED I had kicking around. Remounted my old chrome bumper after massaging some of the dents out of it with the 3lb sledge. Also had to replace the fan belt as it was twisted and frayed from rubbing against the fan shroud and driving it home like that. Luckily I had a spare. Total cost of Frankenstein repairs...$0. The 4runner will be resuming it's dd status tomorrow. I'll start collecting parts for real repair ASAP.
Updated replacement parts list:
■ hood
■ driverside fender
■ grille
■ headlight bezels
■ core support and inner fenders (I'm thinking about possibly building my own and making it all bolt in, might swap the battery and air box to opposite sides at the same time)
■ build a bumper and grille guard
■ turn signal
■ upgrade the brakes
■ upgrade the headlights

^^^Body work tools of choice



^^^"before" pics of the damage...."after" pics below




^^^I Frankenstein'D some temporary repairs out of parts I had laying around. Drivers side headlight bucket is modified off of a 79' ford F250. Its a mounted a little lower than stock, but works for now. The turn signal is old LED I had kicking around. Remounted my old chrome bumper after massaging some of the dents out of it with the 3lb sledge. Also had to replace the fan belt as it was twisted and frayed from rubbing against the fan shroud and driving it home like that. Luckily I had a spare. Total cost of Frankenstein repairs...$0. The 4runner will be resuming it's dd status tomorrow. I'll start collecting parts for real repair ASAP.
Updated replacement parts list:
■ hood
■ driverside fender
■ grille
■ headlight bezels
■ core support and inner fenders (I'm thinking about possibly building my own and making it all bolt in, might swap the battery and air box to opposite sides at the same time)
■ build a bumper and grille guard
■ turn signal
■ upgrade the brakes
■ upgrade the headlights
#230
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Yeah, I was pretty surprised at how much I was able to straighten the hood too. I had to cut out some of the inner structure to be able to hammer out the caved in part.

The fender was a little harder to work with, it was so flimsy after pulling it forward with the come-along. I had to take a grinder and cut the fender to make the door gap bigger just to be able to open the door without creasing it.

The fender was a little harder to work with, it was so flimsy after pulling it forward with the come-along. I had to take a grinder and cut the fender to make the door gap bigger just to be able to open the door without creasing it.
#231
Hey Buddy! Just trying to get caught up on your thread. Trailer is coming along nice!!
Sorry to hear about the Deer!! But I must say..... You really made it look pretty darn good with your "body work" tools!!!!
Sorry to hear about the Deer!! But I must say..... You really made it look pretty darn good with your "body work" tools!!!!
#233
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Thanks, I'll look into the deer whistle, have you used one before, and if so do you have any recommendations on a particular model?
Last edited by rustED; Sep 29, 2016 at 10:17 AM.
#236
#238
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Cold Start Issue
I haven't done anything to my 4runner since making my temporary repairs after hitting the deer. I'm still using it as my daily driver and it's been running like a top with no issues until last week. I had a week off work for Thanksgiving and parked my 4 runner and didnt drive it for the 5 days I was off. Last Wednesday I jumped in it to go to work and it just cranked over but wouldn't fire up. I tried it several times but not so much as a sputter or inclination of it trying to fire up. I haven't any prior experience with this issue, but assumed due to the recent cold weather that it was a cold start injector issue so I started researching threads on this topic.
After reading through a bunch of deadend threads I decided to check RAD4runner's build thread and sure enough, he had recently posted up some good info explaining how the cold start injector and corresponding system works, along with some other good info and some wiring schematics. After reading through his thread I ohm'd out both my cold start injector and my cold start injector timing switch and they both seemed to be in within spec. So I went on to the next easiest thing and removed the cold start injector timing switch, Temp-sensing vacuum switching valve, and the coolant temp sensor and thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled them. I was a little skeptical that this was going to make any difference, mainly because the parts didn't have nearly as much scale buildup on them as what was pictured in RAD4RUNNER'S build thread, in fact the housing threads where the switches and sensors threaded into had no scaling at all and looked clean. I checked the housing threads continuity to ground to make sure, and I was getting good continuity. Anyway after reinstalling them I tried starting it and she fired right up, and has every since. According to Rad's thread "Thorough cleaning of the CSI timer switch housing and the receiving threads is crucial because that's where CSI timer switch grounds on terminal of the CSI in order to actuate it." Just thought I'd pass on some of his info thought it might help someone else out, also here's a link to his thread, info starts on page #36 post #702 - #704.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...0/index36.html
Thanks for the info RAD4runner!
After reading through a bunch of deadend threads I decided to check RAD4runner's build thread and sure enough, he had recently posted up some good info explaining how the cold start injector and corresponding system works, along with some other good info and some wiring schematics. After reading through his thread I ohm'd out both my cold start injector and my cold start injector timing switch and they both seemed to be in within spec. So I went on to the next easiest thing and removed the cold start injector timing switch, Temp-sensing vacuum switching valve, and the coolant temp sensor and thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled them. I was a little skeptical that this was going to make any difference, mainly because the parts didn't have nearly as much scale buildup on them as what was pictured in RAD4RUNNER'S build thread, in fact the housing threads where the switches and sensors threaded into had no scaling at all and looked clean. I checked the housing threads continuity to ground to make sure, and I was getting good continuity. Anyway after reinstalling them I tried starting it and she fired right up, and has every since. According to Rad's thread "Thorough cleaning of the CSI timer switch housing and the receiving threads is crucial because that's where CSI timer switch grounds on terminal of the CSI in order to actuate it." Just thought I'd pass on some of his info thought it might help someone else out, also here's a link to his thread, info starts on page #36 post #702 - #704.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...0/index36.html
Thanks for the info RAD4runner!
Last edited by rustED; Nov 30, 2016 at 11:23 AM.
#239
I have never had a bad Cold Start Injector but have changed several CSI Timing Switches. Sometimes getting the scaling off of the sensor will fix the problem or times the sensor will not pass a resistance check and needs replaced. Anytime I am at the bone yard and see a Timing Switch, I will grab it. It is one sensor that does tend to fail. I have learned a lot on these threads.
How you making out on your Ford truck? I finally got a 76 Super Cab. It has a 460 in it. Takes up too much room and I thinking of going with a 300/6 with a manual transmission. 460 is going to be a gas hog. What would be your suggestion on the 300 with manual transmission? Think it will tow heavy loads? I not looking to win any races but want a heavy tow rig.
How you making out on your Ford truck? I finally got a 76 Super Cab. It has a 460 in it. Takes up too much room and I thinking of going with a 300/6 with a manual transmission. 460 is going to be a gas hog. What would be your suggestion on the 300 with manual transmission? Think it will tow heavy loads? I not looking to win any races but want a heavy tow rig.
Last edited by Terrys87; Nov 30, 2016 at 04:07 PM.
#240
Dang, that sucks about the deer ed. That was 80% of my motivation for a nice front bumper, i'm scared to death of hitting an animal at 80mph.
Hope you figure out the cold-start issues. seems like the electronics on the 22re are a little finicky. My DD starts up great even in below zero, but it idle's rough once warmed up. i've been trying to figure out that gremlin for a year now
Hope you figure out the cold-start issues. seems like the electronics on the 22re are a little finicky. My DD starts up great even in below zero, but it idle's rough once warmed up. i've been trying to figure out that gremlin for a year now






