Does anyone know how many more inches clearance the front is supposed to have than the rear to sit level? Right now the front (measuring from the lip of the wheel to the lip of the fender) is at 20-3/4" and the rear is at 16-1/4"....I was thinking of lowering the front by another 1-1/2" to 2"

 

Ed,I think its all preference.I like my truck a little high in front,some guys like em jacked up in back.Do what feels good.But I would drive it to work for a month before changing it.I think it will settle enough.

 

Thanks Brian, yeah I would rather have it a little high in front... i would hate to go through all the hassel of pulling some leaves out of the front and then have it settle too much and be jacked up high in the rear, LOL, besides when I take the top off it will raise the rear some more too! Plus like you said a beefy plate bumper and winch are in the future, that'll help settle em in, LOL.

 

I was out cleaning up my exhaust with some soap and water and green scotch brite pad, some areas had heavy rust so I was using a wire wheel...anyway I know that it will eventually rust again, maybe not as fast as on the west side of the state, since we don't get nearly the rain as they do...anyway it got me to thinking, has anyone ever painted their exhaust system with high temp paint?



I have some silver left over from my intake manifold (rated at 550*) and some flat black left over from my exhaust manifold (rated at 1200*) What do you guys think?

 

Both should wrk but if u wanna be safe use black

 

found this article, I really think it may help you with this project regarding painting your exhaust...
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Temps.html

 

Thanks for the responses guys, but after working on the exhaust today and trying to get it mocked up into place, I don't think i'm going to paint it because I'll probably end up having to redo down the road. I didn't take in to consideration that the exhaust came off a longbed pickup, so I'm going to have to do alot of chopping and rewelding to get it to work (It will probably look like a hack job when I'm done, LOL). I thought that some of the hangers would be in the right spot, but they aren't. Also I was leaning toward swapping in a f150 gas tank where the spare tire used to be, but this exhaust is routed to where both exhaust pipes exit on the driverside (to avoid the gas tank on the passengerside) so it would be in the way of an f150 tank. And the mufflers are flowmasters, but they're old and burned out, when you let off the gas and are coasting, they pop alot, Anyway, I'm just going to do whatever I have to do for now to get it drivable, and probably redo the entire exhaust at a later date.



In the upper right pic, the mufflers are too far back and above the axel, I need to shorten the exhaust there and move the mufflers forward so they are under the rear seat (where the heat sheild is)


In the botom right pic the exhaust exits right behind the driverside rear shackle, and it's at a weird angle kinda pointing at the corner... it's actually hitting the shackle right now(on the pickup it exited in front of the shackle) I'm thinking of just cutting it off a foot or so after the muffler and getting some turn downs so it dumps out towards the ground.

 

Turndowns under the chassis will create a bad resonance inside the cab and super loud flowmasters do that pop nrand new out of box.... not enough back pressure i think

 

Thanks racerflea, thats good to know, I guess I'll just shorten it up and try to get it to exit out the side before the shackle, either that or lengthen it and have it run straight out the back, lol.

 

Lol np glad i could offer my opinion! Could u possibly route both exhaust to one mufler to see if that helps with pop?

 

LOL, that's what I was thinking...either that or I wonder if a H pipe or Xpipe would help between the two exhaust pipes. (it would be pretty easy to add a H pipe they are so close together before the mufflers) I really like the sound of the exhaust otherwise, just don't care for the popping.

 

Well u should have some extra pipe once u shorthen it play around!

 

nice build so far. if you havent gotten a radiator yet. i would run the automatic version with the extra trans cooler. since you wont use it for the trans, you can run your power steering thru it. free p-s cooler

 

That's true, lol. Might as well give it a shot!

Thanks Toyo Tech. That's a really good idea for the PS, I just don't think I'll have enough room up front for it, it's really tight, I'll be lucky if I can fit a radiator in there period, LOL.

 

Toyotech,thats such a great idea I think im going to steal it.Ed, it will work great for you too.The trans cooler is internal so it wont use up any room.I think im going to run a separate trans cooler,so the one in the rad will work great for power steering.RAD;-)

 

Cool, I thought it was an external cooler, that would work out sweet!

 

when i 1st heard of it i was like sweet but than im automatic so i cant haha

 

My truck is auto also.Ever had a teans cooler bust inside a radiator.It makes a mess of the cooling system and can conraminate the trans with water.If I do it im going to separate the systems and use an external trans cooler.At least that way no risk of getting water in the trans.If you get a little water in the ps pump,who cares its cheap.

 

thats true. this is common on 96-2002 4runners with 3.4 autos. not too long ago i installed a new radiator so i should be good there. if i do get an external cooler i would run my trans to the external and ps to the rad

 

I had it happen on a Jeep years ago,what a friggin mess.