bleh! who paints their engine yellow!?
hehe

there's your problem right there: "3vz"

did you ever find out what was frozen? could have been the t-stat was frozen shut, or water pump passages, or the entire radiator, or...

 

Never was able to figure it out. And the ghetto fab 3weez was in there from the PO. I have to say that so far my 3.slo isn't too bad, mpg's are lower then the 22re, but power is much higher.

 

yeah. and i know you do good work with it, too. should last until the new diesel, anyway. still looking at a veggie tdi?

 

wow youve done alot of work to the runner looks great.. like the storage box , if i didnt have a ford tank to put back there already i would be copying your idea..

as far as the overheating , maybe the thermostat went bad.

and here is a pic of the stock inspection light for the 4runners , the pic you posted is of the light for the landcruisers i think .

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161.../#post51636481..


.

and sorry for not ever getting those diagrams back to you .. every swap i do ill mark it up a little more and hopefully ill get it back to you

 

oops a little to slow in posting.. im with ian check the thermostat

 

RMA, its totally cool, i know lots of guys will appreciate the notes you've made.
Yes, it could be the t-stat, but it has been fine ever since yesterday morning, drove it last night and this morn....thanks for the compliments, i made the trunnk bolt in with a collar system so if i decide to locate a fuel-tank back there i can just unbolt the box and then i have a handy access for the fuel tank.

As for the veggie oil, i don't think i am going to go that route for the simple reason that produces more sut(sp?) and fouls glow plugs prematurly. Not to mention some injection pumps and nozzles are finicky.

 

can't you run a veggie set-up on regular diesel too? or is it one or the other? (just got me thinking about duce-n-a-halfs)

 

Yes, the way to do it is start and finish on bio or regular diesel. Which means two tanks and a heater for the veggie/waste oil. Too much stuff IMO, maintenance is much higher, I'd rather run bio from the coop near me, and when I overland it, I just run regular pump diesel from wherever. Now if we can just get the blue algae fuels going, we could all drive any engine you like on a bio derived fuel.

 

RMA - is there any way inserting a "regular" 120Volt plug into that socket, even for a moment, could foul up something in the circuit (like my map lights)?

I can't remember when, or what it was, but I did this once out of curiousity. At some point after that I noticed my map lights stopped working (door lights still work fine). Just wondering if I could have inadvertently shorted something out in the system. I really haven't spent any time diving into this with a multimeter but this has gotten me thinking about it again....

Sorry, RBX, wandering off topic again!

 

A plug in is just a plug in on both side so to speak male and female parts it's what you have hooked too the bare wire end on the male end 2 prongs and what's hooked up the the screws on the female part receptacle, if you have a 120v work light I doubt it would work, now cut off the 120v work light and put on a tail light socket from like the reverse light and put in a 12 reverse bulb or 12v rubber surround flood light and waalaa got a home made light kind of like the factory optional work light :} I'm going to do something like that for trail work light for mine, the plug in on like a bathroom medicine cabinet that's just for 2 prongs and make a bracket or mount in the dash and hot wire though like the fuse block I have with the ACC on ignition or directly to battery with a fuse in-line and for little coin and left over cord from like a alarm clock and a tail light socket or something like it and that's it :} easy peasy and a fun project to do!!!!

I've done something like this using a cig lighter plug-in, but a little tug and it will lose contact with the center spring loaded piece that sticks out on the tip...

 

So John, since the socket is rated for 12 rather than 120 volts, do you think it's possible that I shorted something in the truck's circuit when I plugged in whatever 120V device I did (I forget!)? It wouldn't have hurt the device since the voltage would be 12 versus 120, right?

 

except for the whole ac/dc thing... transformers don't play well with dc, motors are different, and there's other stuff...

 

Freeze plug leak, anyone ever replace one while in the vehicle?

 

and also got a little closer to OBA. Using a Puma PD-1006.


Disassembled and creating a mounting point in the box, with the tank(another, larger aluminum) relocated to outside the box

 

My machinist was replacing one on a 2.7L when I stopped by one time, while in the truck.... 2.7 gives a LOT more room to work with than the Veezee.... But I would bet you can do it. You'll need a REALLY strong, angled pick to take a few tries at it AFTER you work around the edges as best as you can with the proper tool(I know there's a tool just for that, but I can't remember what he used to get it started). Then, he used a type of slide hammer to begin collapsing it from the inside and then would go back and working on the edges with the pic. I know he cleaned it up REALLY well in there as best as possible and then used this "illegal" stuff on the edge of the new plug to seal it up. It smelled like an apocalypse in progress with chemical weapons going on, that stuff, ....but it "WORKS BETTER THAN ANYTHING", he told me. I could ask him for a comparable alternative if you want, Monday, if you remind me. I know they have tools for inserting the new plugs as well, and I would recommend using that, also(like a seal installer kit).... Ya know?

I think Jerry got his out on his boys 88, but not without some SERIOUS coaxing, and while it was out of the rig, too

Best wishes, RB!

 

I have done one. It was on a 5.9 durango very tight. But yes chef there is a tool for it. I bought the hole set. And that's the only time I have ever used it. Well spent 280 bucks. Haha. I can take a pic of it tomarrow at work an email it to u. It's bar that has an angle at the end and a ball on the same end where the plug installer snaps on so it can pivot when installing plugs in the car. Subarus freeze plugs are threaded caps so I haven't touched it but once in the 4 years I have owned it.

 

thanks guys, just trying to get a handle on this. Seems that some folks say you put something on the plug and some say nothing.

 

A long time ago I did a few on some SBC's. I used the type of dent puller that has a screw on the end of it. Drill the right sized hole in the freeze plug, screw the dent puller into it. And go to town on the slide hammer. Then I used a socket and extension, found a socket just smaller than the inside of the plug. Put a good amount red lock tight sealant on the plug.

 

Thanks TinMan, i have a slide hammer, maybe i could tack a chain link on the plug and snatch it with the hook attachment(i don't have a little dent-puller screw accessory). I only have the 10lb(i think, its big) slide hammer.
Thanks for the tip!

 

Yeah man that might work. Worst that can happen at this point is that you have to pull the engine and take to a machine shop if your plan doesn't work.