I'm with Chef on this...really curious now!

Sorry RBX to hijack again, and thanks for the wiring diagram - that could help me with my current non-working dome light issue (all other lights work).

Back to you!

 

No sweat, my thread has been dead for a while, since i haven't spent any time/money recently. Although i did make a lid for my sunken box, but no pics.

anyhow, here is some info on the light

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...stions-179355/

 

Hey RB, .... bookmarked your rear dome light and what I 'saw' on the S10 Rack....... Any install info on the latter?

Thanks, man.... Using your thread again,.......'like a thief in the night!' lol. Muahahahaha. JK, .... mostly. lol.

 

Mark, i'll try to get a few pics of the rack mounting, but it really is just a few holes drilled thru the top with an aluminum plate on the inside to distribute load. Oh, and i added some sleeves to the bolts to keep them from squishing the fiberglass top when i tightened them.

And, i pretty much steal all the mods i have preformed and plan to preform on my rig, just for the record.

 

got any pics of your box lid yet? or are you gonna wait 'til it's done?

 

I have welded it together, and it's in place but it's not finished. I'll try to get a pic up of it.

 

yeah, whenever. no rush.

i still have a clutch to replace, so i have no place to talk about rushing things

 

^^^ and i still have an e-brake to finish.

 

Hey man I looked through your thread, I couldn't find a pic of your hard top roof rack.

 

jeez, stop making the rest of us look bad

anyway, if you want the parts list for the electric york compressor (the cheaper oasis), i found it. i figured there might be enough room in that box to put one. maybe.

 

Brian, there is a picture of the rack mounted but not of how i installed it. Its pretty straight forward...8 holes in the fiberglass, some bolt sleeves to limit compression when the bolts are tightened and a plate on the interior to distribute load.

ian,
I would love to see the parts list for the Faux-a-sis compressor. I got a Puma for x-mas, but the girl ordered the wrong one(AC not DC) so it went back. I still plan on using the 12v Puma, but i'd like to see the York, i'm guessing it's going to draw a ton more amps though.

 

close to 30 or 40 at full draw

mcmaster.com parts:
-1 x 6245k54 (7" pulley)
-1 x 6186k137 (40" belt*)
-_ x 6948k951 (1/0 cable)
-7 x 6926k79 (terminal lugs)
-misc. mounting hardware

dbelectrical.com parts:
-1 x ramsey winch motor
-1 x continuous-duty solenoid

other:
-1 x york compressor (smaller pulley, larger displacement preferable)

the winch motor i posted is 6hp, but they have 4.5, as well. all the ramsey winch motors turn at 2200 rpm, plenty for continuous duty air. the mounting hardware is for mounting the motor, compressor, solenoid, etc. you'll need things like a fuse/breaker, in-cab switch, and smaller wire, too. if you can find a tapered-to-non-tapered 3/4" shaft coupler with keyway, then you won't need the belt and pulley.


*take the last two digits on the p/n and add 3 to get the belt length, for lengths between 20" and 96"

 

RB, what page? I just want to see it installed, I can figure out how to bolt it down myself.

I can't seem to find it!

 

Two for you!

 

Rack looks nice! Any idea what year Blazer that came off?

 

so today on the way to work my rig started to overheat...WTH!!!!!

leave the house at 6, didn't let it warm up cuz i needed gas, it was in the teens this morning. Drove it 2 blocks to the gas station and let it run while i filled her tank. Meanwhile the truck is loping really bad, not to the point of dying, while i'm pumping.
It has done some loping before when its cold and i turn it off before it's warm, then back on(like running to the store quick) but it was much milder of a lope...like only 100-200rpm change. This morning it was more like 500-800rpm change. I always figured this issue was due to the fact that i used non-OEM sensors, and i never got any codes when i checked.
So back in the truck and on the highway the heater is blowing coooollllllddddd air, and right about now it should be TOYOTA hot. I check my temp gauge and it seems fine, but in the next mile it starts to climb into the 'oh-no' zone.
Anyhow, i limp it to work and it is puking water and steam from the overflow, actually blew the top right off of it, and the upper(large) radiator hose was sliding off due to the pressure in the radiator.
Now with that said, i have had a small coolant leak, and so i have been adding water every few weeks, not alot, the top tank is never dry, just low. So me thinks i had too much water and something froze last night, and blocked something.
So at lunch i added a gallon of 50/50, and all is good...WTH??
My leak is coming from a freeze plug i think, part of me actually was wishing the engine was busted so i could start the diesel progress. Don't get me wrong i'm not quite ready for that, but that's because i am not satisfied with my research yet.
If you have any idea, or suggestion why my rig overheated, please speak up.

thanks

 

Brian, i think the rack is from a late 90s early 00...iirc.

 

Thanks for the info.

Now about the overheating, does your water pump not come on until the rig starts to warm up? I know some cars are like that, if thats the case, maybe when the water pump tried to push the ice, it clogged and left no water circulation causing the overtemp.


I'd personally drain the coolant and add fresh properly mixed 50/50 and see if it works correctly.

 

yes the water pump is mechanical(runs off the timing belt), and brand new(about 3k mi), I'm guessing if ice was jammed in the water pump it would seriously screw up the timing belt and make a horrendous noise. I'll check the timing belt for signs of wear/fatigue.
I should probably drain the coolant and start fresh. But i think i am going to fix the freeze plug first.
thanks

 

leaky freeze-plug


drips ever so slightly