ummm... led's are diodes. (light emitting diode). another diode would be redundant. what you need to do is put the led indicator on the relay coil instead of the fan itself. that'll ensure that the indicator cannot be turned on by the "fanerator"

hope that helps

 

Thanks Ian, i know i sounded redundant(diodes and LEDs) here is a drawing of what i think i need to do so the fanerator is not powering the LEDs when the fan isn't consuming power.

 

soft top looks good, and tht bias diode should work.

 

aaahhh ok, i see

hmmm... i'll have to think about that now...

 

Hey RBX how much do you know about gears? There is a guy near you selling a set of 4.88 but he says he bought them for a 6cyl I have a 4 will that work?

 

You would need a v6 rear unfortunately. Trail Gear lists the gears for 4cyl and V6 as different part numbers. If this doesn't work for you, would you mind giving me the info for the guy selling the gears?

Thanks

 

here's my solution: bamf diodes, in series with the fan positive

here is one that can handle 100+ amps continuous, and has 2 diodes in one package


a little pricey, but not terrible. it'll also prevent damage to the controller due to back-flow of electricity

edit:
they would be in the same location as what you have in the schematic. if you need any help, i'm usually free on weekends... maybe we'll have to drag brian down, too haha

edit edit:
also need to keep them cool. the higher the temperature, the less amperage it can handle. you're fine up to 100* f, but it starts dropping off after that. in front of the radiator should work just fine

 

Well thanks for the info RBx. Here is the http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2227354459.html. I

 

Thanks Ian, i'll look into it.

And thanks for the link B-yodaful, i guess i'll contact him and see if he would sell the gears out-right, since his listing says he'll include it with the sale.

 

Yeah he will he emailed me and told me he wud

 

thanks B!

 

Let me know what happens

 

so yesterday i started the truck before heading to work and noticed a large fluid spot under the truck. This isn't normal, usually a few drops, but this was a large spot about 2'x2'. Every fluid level seemed fine, and parking it at work all day she only marked her territory with a few usual drips. I think she is telling me she wants a bigger engine sooner then later.
So i contacted the only mechanic i trust, to see if he will rebuild a 1UZF-e for me. I really want to do this rebuild myself, but i have never rebuilt an entire engine before, and do not want to risk the learning curve a few hundred or thousand miles from home.
He looked up the time, and AllData claims 59.3 hours for an engine rebuild! sooooo,
i guess i will rebuild the new heart myself, and hope i get it right the first time.
I know it isn't rocket science, so if anyone can recommend any good tips or web links that give advice on engine building i would appreciate it. I'm not looking for the usual...'get sharpie, baggies, tags pictures' this i know. I am interested in, what type of assembly lube to use, things to loctite/and not, modifications(debur), crank journal, cam journal prolems(or what to look for)...

 

Well my advice would be make sure it base some good compression. I was quoted 505 my cost on rings. You can just jump the starter with it on the stand an check compression. Or save if pennies.

 

Good to know. Thx

 

So I looked through my stuff an I guess I didn't save any of the tear down stuff all I saved is specs an what not. But ill have to send it tomorrow was a long day.

 

man the 1uz is super expensive to rebuild .. your looking at $1200-1500 in parts alone to do a complete job.
i was gonna rebuild one back when before i knew how much the parts were..
im luck that i live in the bay area, lots of parts around here tons of cars.
the pick n pulls ,for some reason started stocking these cars as of about a year ago. Right now theres 6 ls 400,s in the yards near me, and the complete engine cost about $300 .
the best thing to do is to get a complete car saves alot of money . were into this most recent swap for around $1000 thats buying the 1989 4runner ,1992 sc400,t-100 tranny , and selling the 4runner tranny ,engine and some of the sc stuff.

the thing im noticing around here is that the cars with the 1uz are selling alot faster than before , people are doing this swap more and more not only in the 4runners but in other cars .

 

I know that the 1UZ is an expensive rebuild, but it's cheap when you consider a new or remanned engine with cheaper parts and labor costs...AllData says 59.3hrs to rebuild....ouch.
And my labor is just my time.

Found i had a huge ATF leak on one of the hard lines running to the radiator. So a trip to the local yard yielded 0(zero, zilch, notta, nill) hard lines from the three 2nd Gens.
So i found an GS300 with similar lines, brought them home and cut them to size, the used my brake flare tool to reform the end, bent them to fit.
I'm swapping a 5spd in so i really don't want to do any work to this trans.
For thirteen dollars i stopped the leak.

 

for future reference you can us neoprene rubber hose and clamps. just cut out bad section and replace with hose

 

^^^Now if i did that i wouldn't have gotten any practice using my double flaring tool, or go to the pick'n pull and fine other stuff!
But yeah, could have saved some time and a few bucks. Infact, my brother asked me why i didn't do that anyhow.

thanks