Holding up well. Discovered a few leaks on the side seems, nothing a little seam sealer won't fix.

 

what about insulation? how warm does it keep you in there?

 

the can-back isn't exactly air tight, it was been comfortable with the heat on, then again the weather hasn't been too bad lately other then the rain.
As far as camping, i have no idea yet. To be honest if i were going camping i would have the hardtop back on until it was MUCH warmer.

 

sounds good. you also have the insulation, which (i assume) helps a bunch. i'm sure the can-back will be muck nicer than the hard top in the summer with all that insulation. i'm going to roast in mine, unless i put in curtains and open the windows. i'll definitely have curtains for the ec4rj, and (towards the end of summer) insulate the cap so i can comfortably sleep in the fall/winter.

 

During the really cold months and the snow, my heat was not working as it should, and the cab remained comfortable with little heat from the clogged core. Now that the core is LESS clogged after a good flushing, it definitley makes a difference.
Now i just have to get the rear heater installed.

 

Yeah that's why i'm holding off a bit until i put it on. Probably come April i'll get around to it.

 

I also still need to polish the outside windows and tint the rear. Befiore i oput the top on i polished the interior of the windows to get the scratches out, figured while i had it stretched over the frame i would polish the exterior. I will still need to take it off so i can tint the rear window.

 

What did you use to polish you softy?

 

I don't have the exact name, but it was MacGuire's(sp?) kit for headlights, it has pics of the other uses on the side, and i think most of the headlight polishing kits suggest you can use them on the windows. It came with the compound and the drill attachement for buffing.
I looked for just vinyl window polish, but could only find the headlight polish..it seems to work well.

 

I am getting blue puff of smoke when i start the engine after sitting a few minutes/hours, and i believe it may be the valve seals(valve stem oil seal).
So, i want to replace the seal that is leaking, i believe it is the #6 exhaust valve.
Can anyone tell me if this can be done without removing the head? I've never done this on a typical spring actuated cylinder head, only my bikes Desmodromic style system.

thanks

 

Take the spark plug out and use a compression gauge of leak down tester hose and put air pressure to the cylinder but try an keep the engine from turning over as the air pressure will try. But the air pressure will keep the valves closed. Just don't loose the air pressure to the cylinder or the valves will fall in.

 

Thanks Shag
I have a leak down tester, and will give that a shot. I thought about stuffing some rope in the cylinder and compressing it to keep the valve up since this is a non-interference engine.

 

Yeah air works wonders. The next trick is getting Tue spring off. There is a tool that someone make for doing them in the car. But I don't know how much it is and if ur only going to be doing this once or so is it really worth it to u to buy it. Or you could make it ur self.

 

maybe my local parts store will rent the tool. I'll do a search and see if i can find it.

 

Yeah its a pretty simple tool. I think u twos the cam out pull the bucket and put the can back in audit presses against the can to compress the spring.

 

seems, the tool is pretty cheap, so ill jus buy it.

thanks

 

Yeah but u need to make sure ur getting Tue one that works for that setup I'm pretty sure there is about 5 stills of tool that's y I my self would just make the tool.

 

great build! I am sorry in advance...how did you fixed your water temp gauge? ...water temp sender(for gauge, fixed)...thank you in advance ...installed a new water temp sender?..

 

AWESOME work, RB! Love the panels, the persistence on the chasing down of dem BASTAGE GREMLINS, .....ETC!! lol. Sorry to hear bout the blue-plumes! SUCKS! Hope you get it quick with least amount of issues possible.

Read what you said about the tops, and someone saying "I'll bake in the summer"... and I hear that... But I've actually found that if I just keep the back closed up(windows LIL open for ventilation), whatever temp was in there over night seems to last a bit longer as I sleep, where as I COOKED, much quicker, in the high desert, etc., when I had the top off, etc. Even with my shells on pu's that weren't insulated, ....I noticed the same thing. I also have a nice pop up 12x12, ...WORKS PERFECT for shading the top in the morning, and then I even add an extend'o'tarp because the sun is coming straight from the side in the morns, ya know? Anyway, just like the concept of keeping the house sealed up when the air is on, .... they seem to keep it cool in there in the morn when it's 90*F by 9am, ya know? lol.

Sorry, just throwing that in there, hahaha.

 

Thanks for the kind words.
Yes i replaced the water temp sensor unit, but my guage is at halfway all the time, and i know it is the temp SENDING unit, and bad connection (corroded, loose). It may also be a combination with my gauge cluster, since my fuel gauge will read half tank and then the light comes on(ran out of fuel to figure that one out). The Oil pressure gauge is always halfway also.
I have a manual guage cluster ready to drop in when i do the R150f swap, so i will tackle those issues then if they persist.
Chef,
Most of my camping will be done in the warmer months, with the soft-top on. I'm guessing it will be fine, and if not, i'd rather be hot then cold.