And if its rebuilt it shouldn't smoke at all.

 

I'd stuff a Yota diesel if it wasn't so damn expensive, and they don't take tweaking too well.

XXX,
Yes that is blue smoke, but no it is not normal, especially if you could see it in person. I still haven't gotten around to replacing the valve seals.

Thanks guys

 

ok then yeah, if blue = not normal. Just a side thought maybe it's residual oil not being burned off from the PCV system that is laying in the intake overnight?

 

PCV is brand new. And when it sits overnight, no smoke, my be a very little, but barely. If I park the truck and start it back up in an hour or so I get a healthy dose of the blue smoke.

 

Dang RB, ....... any plan of attack? Thinking the valves are not seated properly? Did a leak down?

 

Probably the valve seals. Haven't done a leak down, and honestly if it is anything but the seals this motor is getting yanked pronto. The truck will just sit till i have a 1.9TDI ready to drop in.
On the up side, i should be getting an R150 this weekend.

 

I haven't been following this thread closely, but I'm REALLY interested in how the diesel swap goes down. I've been looking into those a lot lately, and I'm about 90% sure that's the swap I'll do someday. I'm looking forward to seeing yours, RBX!

 

RBX, Can't wait to see your runner when it's all done. It's going to be beast. Definitely subscribing.

 

gearing up to drop the MR2 alternator in, and add the auxiliary battery.
Now i need to figure out whether i go with an isolator, separator or manual switch.
I will be adding a deep cycle and eventually a winch. I'd like to be able to run the accesories from the deep cycle, but still retain the ability to 'jump' the other battery if that one drains. And i'd like to make it idiot proof(so i don't drain both batteries because i forgot to through a switch)
Opinions?
What is the differnece between a separator and an isolator...anyone with first hand experience?

thanks

 

you want an isolator with high-draw items (like the winch) on the deep cycle side. the isolator automatically cuts the connection when the batteries aren't being charged, so there's no risk of draining. likewise, when the alternator starts up again, it charges both, or just one, depending on the need (also automatic)

now that you mention it, i need one for my trailer wiring

 

OK, so what if i'm in the middle of god's country and my main battery dies. How would i jump the batteries? I know how you love diagrams.

 

edit:
Speaking with a coworker, and he claims that he had an isolator on an RV with a manual switch to jump the batteries when necessary....this is what i want. Now i just have to dig up a schematic....i wounder where i could find something like that Ian?

 

wire up the dual batteries with the isolator as per the diagram, and put a heavy line from each of the positives to a battery switch.



and the switch is something like this, whichever one has a high amp rating:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=...dc1df9b73fc1ea

 

um yeah easy for you to say. lol. No really, that looks pretty simple at least to me. WTG. Ian saves the day with another electrical diagram.

 

haha thanks brandon

the diagram will vary between isolator models, but the concept and placement of the switch is the same

 

Thanks Ian!
As we discussed last weekend, I'm going to run 1-awg cable for all the connections, didn't we agree that 1/O would be overkill? Is 1-awg enough?

 

I would assume the switch would just have to be rated for whatever the CCA of the battery is? And the CB would be rated for whatever acc's you have on there winch/welder etc etc right?

 

^^^ i think i would need to calculate a safe load draw to get a proper CB, i'm just not sure how i do that.
But this brings up another queestion.....why is there only one CB on one leg off the isolator.

 

I would look at a combiner vs just a standard isolator. I have used a yandina combiner `100 on my boat with 3 battery banks for a number of years and it is fool proof.

It simplifies the installation and gives you the abilitly via a remote swith to jump one battery off the other.

I can give more info if needd but the yandina web site is pretty good explaining the setup. You may need the larger combinder model depending on our alt output.

http://yandina.com/


Cheers,

Kevin

 

RBX as far as current draw on ACC's. If the say Winch (gonna use an M8000 for example) were to max out at 435 amps then that's your load. Trick is when it's rated in watts. If something is rated at say 480 watts. You take that 480 watt and divide it by your voltage (12V or 120V if it's plugged into a standard outlet) In which case if it's a 12V ACC then your gonna draw 40 amp. If it's a 120V ACC then it's gonna draw 4 amp.

Now lets use some off-road lights.
Say your gonna run 4 x 100 watt fogs. That is 400W. Divide that by 12 volt and those 4 lights are gonna draw 33.33 amp.

Always figure for all of your accessories on and not just the highest of the loads. Lights and winch for example. Those might need to be all on at the same time. So it would be 435 amp + 34 amp = 469 amp.