RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#502
Fan controller malfunction.
Seems my fan isn't turning off like it is suppose to. I contacted DCC and told them about the problem. Without hesitation they told me to send it back so the circuitry could be upgraded to the newer style they started using after I purchased mine. As I was explained to me, the A/C diode could be bad and is spiking the Efan controller. The new circuitry will correct this issue.
This took an exchange of only two emails...awesome!
I pulled the unit and will be sending it back today. I purchased this unit last spring, why can't all customer service be like this?
Can-Back
The magnetic strip to keep the back flap/window tied to the body never really worked well. Because of this I decided I would drill and rivet proper snaps into the tailgate. I'm not too keen on drilling into the sheetmetal so I used POR-15 on the bare metal and butyl tape behind the snap. I'm hoping this will slow the rust monster down a bit. And if not, I'll just reskin it with a fiberglass one.
So now that the truck has no Efan control for the next week I'm going to start the a340 auto to r150f manual swap. Tank lift is going to happen at the same time.
Stay tuned
Seems my fan isn't turning off like it is suppose to. I contacted DCC and told them about the problem. Without hesitation they told me to send it back so the circuitry could be upgraded to the newer style they started using after I purchased mine. As I was explained to me, the A/C diode could be bad and is spiking the Efan controller. The new circuitry will correct this issue.
This took an exchange of only two emails...awesome!
I pulled the unit and will be sending it back today. I purchased this unit last spring, why can't all customer service be like this?
Can-Back
The magnetic strip to keep the back flap/window tied to the body never really worked well. Because of this I decided I would drill and rivet proper snaps into the tailgate. I'm not too keen on drilling into the sheetmetal so I used POR-15 on the bare metal and butyl tape behind the snap. I'm hoping this will slow the rust monster down a bit. And if not, I'll just reskin it with a fiberglass one.
So now that the truck has no Efan control for the next week I'm going to start the a340 auto to r150f manual swap. Tank lift is going to happen at the same time.
Stay tuned
Last edited by RBX; Jun 6, 2011 at 03:22 AM.
#504
It's all one unit, the relays are potted. Not sure what relays they use, never paid attention eventhough they have white writing on them. I honestly went purely on reviews folks had written about the controller before I made the purchase.
http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm
http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm
#505
#506
^^^ you can't see it in this picture but i reused one of the mounting holes on the fender from the old airbox. I simply took a piece of aluminum i had and bent it into an 'L' using the existing mounting holes on the AFM.
#507
Pulled Auto-tranny out...i hate automatic transmissions more now then ever. Fluid leaking from every possble seal. Taking the torque converter off is fun! The trans is massive on this truck, and super heavy even with no torque converter and the fluid drained from all three drain plugs...yes three!
I was really stoked at how easily the whole mess came out of the truck with realative ease. I used a motorcycle jack as my tranny jack, worked great.
Tank lift, after pulling the trans, i thought i would remove the fuel tank. well a few hours later and i have everything ready to bolt back in, just need to tweak my bolt hole alignment.
I'll post some pics tonight.
I was really stoked at how easily the whole mess came out of the truck with realative ease. I used a motorcycle jack as my tranny jack, worked great.
Tank lift, after pulling the trans, i thought i would remove the fuel tank. well a few hours later and i have everything ready to bolt back in, just need to tweak my bolt hole alignment.
I'll post some pics tonight.
#508
In keeping my regiment of doing atleast one thing per day/night to the truck, i replaced my Shifter Bushings i ordered from Marlin sometime ago. I used a bicycle bottom bracket tool from Park to remove the spring retainer.
Here you can see the two holes i drilled in the retainer to make removal much easier then fabbing a Toyota specific tool.


And a crappy fuzzy pic comparing the old(right) and new(left/red)

I Just noticed the Shift Lever Ball Seat i installed was actually for the W56, and not the R150f(should have been the White one, not Red). Can anyone confirm this. It felt nice and smooth when i replaced it. Not a big deal since i can remove and replace it once i get the trans in if necessary.
Here you can see the two holes i drilled in the retainer to make removal much easier then fabbing a Toyota specific tool.


And a crappy fuzzy pic comparing the old(right) and new(left/red)

I Just noticed the Shift Lever Ball Seat i installed was actually for the W56, and not the R150f(should have been the White one, not Red). Can anyone confirm this. It felt nice and smooth when i replaced it. Not a big deal since i can remove and replace it once i get the trans in if necessary.
Last edited by RBX; Feb 5, 2015 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Possible wrong part
#509
your correct RBX
The Red seat is for W56-A and W56-B Toyota transmissions.
The White seat is for most other 1981 and newer common Toyota transmission applications with a direct top-mounted shift level, such as L-, G-, W-, and R-series transmissions including the new 6-speed RA60 transmission.
The Blue seat is for the forward shift style transfer case shift handle base of a transmission, such as a G52, G54, W56-C, W56-D, W56-E, R151F, and 1988-95 R150F applications with forward shifting transfer case shift bases. It also fits top shifting chain drive transfer case shift bases.
The White seat is for most other 1981 and newer common Toyota transmission applications with a direct top-mounted shift level, such as L-, G-, W-, and R-series transmissions including the new 6-speed RA60 transmission.
The Blue seat is for the forward shift style transfer case shift handle base of a transmission, such as a G52, G54, W56-C, W56-D, W56-E, R151F, and 1988-95 R150F applications with forward shifting transfer case shift bases. It also fits top shifting chain drive transfer case shift bases.
#511
This weekend:
Installed new rear main seal and oil pan gasket Permatex.
Oil pan had been leaking/wet and had atleast an entire tube of permatex all over it...nasty. There was so much...how much was there?... it had actually clogged about 60% of the screen.
Also made my own crossover bypass:


wow those are crappy pictures....cell phone.
Not pictured but i did make a heat shield as well.
Installed new rear main seal and oil pan gasket Permatex.
Oil pan had been leaking/wet and had atleast an entire tube of permatex all over it...nasty. There was so much...how much was there?... it had actually clogged about 60% of the screen.
Also made my own crossover bypass:


wow those are crappy pictures....cell phone.
Not pictured but i did make a heat shield as well.
Last edited by RBX; Feb 5, 2015 at 07:00 AM.
#512
wow those are crappy pictures....cell phone.
anyway, i looked up adjusting valves today. wow, looks like a 10 min job... guess what i'm doing tomorrow before work

and i'm out. again, good luck getting that trans in
#515
yes, once i dropped the front diff, and the oil pan...so no it didn't There was an extreme amount of RTV smeared all over the oil pan gasket, and inside the pan as well...some people need their hands broken to prevent them from ever touching a mechanical object.
I could have just popped the seal out without taking any bolts out looking back, but the seal was very brittle and shipped apart when i tried to remove it. It would have been a good idea for me to open the pan up so i could clean all the debris that would have made it's way into there.
I wasn't too concerned with the trans oil pan leak, rather more the RMS, hoping it wouldn't contaminate my clutch. I've read a few posts about RMS leaking right away after replacement....i'm hoping mine won't.
To Do:
Clutch MC mounting...cut hole in firewall, install brackets
Tab firewall for clutch line to soft line transition
Wire Clutch switch, Clutch Cancel switch, Reverse lights and 4WD indicator
Assemble transmission with Inchworm adapter, clock 10*
Fab cross-member, start with stock cross-member
I could have just popped the seal out without taking any bolts out looking back, but the seal was very brittle and shipped apart when i tried to remove it. It would have been a good idea for me to open the pan up so i could clean all the debris that would have made it's way into there.
I wasn't too concerned with the trans oil pan leak, rather more the RMS, hoping it wouldn't contaminate my clutch. I've read a few posts about RMS leaking right away after replacement....i'm hoping mine won't.
To Do:
Clutch MC mounting...cut hole in firewall, install brackets
Tab firewall for clutch line to soft line transition
Wire Clutch switch, Clutch Cancel switch, Reverse lights and 4WD indicator
Assemble transmission with Inchworm adapter, clock 10*
Fab cross-member, start with stock cross-member
#516
Great pictures. Re: changing your shifter bushings....are you supposed to change the bushings for the 4WD shifter? Is that what the blue bushing on Marlin's site is for? And does it need one of those little caps on the tip of the 4WD shifter? I need to do this.
Last edited by Nervo19; Jun 14, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
#517
Nervo,
The 4WD shifter does not get a white cap on the end, and i am not sure about the blue shift bushing. The 4WD mechanism is different then the 5 speed lever mechanism. The 4WD doesn't see as much use as the 5spd, unless you are having some issues with it, I'd leave it alone. I actually peeled the boot back and greased the shift lever ball a bit since i was in there anyhow.
In other news,
I got half the hybrid transmission together, clocked 10*. The reason it isn't fully assembled is because the top two bolts are recessed and i need to get some allen head bolts to make it work. I'll get some picks up so you can see what i mean.
The 4WD shifter does not get a white cap on the end, and i am not sure about the blue shift bushing. The 4WD mechanism is different then the 5 speed lever mechanism. The 4WD doesn't see as much use as the 5spd, unless you are having some issues with it, I'd leave it alone. I actually peeled the boot back and greased the shift lever ball a bit since i was in there anyhow.
In other news,
I got half the hybrid transmission together, clocked 10*. The reason it isn't fully assembled is because the top two bolts are recessed and i need to get some allen head bolts to make it work. I'll get some picks up so you can see what i mean.





