^^^me neither, cuz when the can-back is on it means warm weather is here. Kinda like the ground hog thing

 

well, the groundhog predicted an early spring... soooo....

 

so are you still trying to run the subie brakes on the rears. i know th rotors on those thinds are very small. i have a 87 gl a 87 dl and i did have an 84gl tell my brother totled it. im looking on doing rear discs on my runner as well im in the middle of my 1uz swap now will have my runner gutted by the 5 of march im hopeing. the rear brake setup i wal looking at is a full floating chevy setup for 300 i just dont know how the e-brake works though i think its a ball and cam like the subie ones. ur build is looking good man. but yeah get rid of that auto i feel your pain on that i had an 88 3.0 auto ha then after that i was dumb enough to get a 22re auto hahahahaha i let my friend use it and he almost totled it because he didnt think it would be that slow ans pulled out in front of a truck.

 

Ian, I hope that ground hog thing is true.

Shaggy,
I am sorta all over the place with my rig sometimes, for the simple fact somestuff I can do immediately, and then sometimes something may hold me up so I switch gears to make progress somewhere else.
That said, I am going to investigate( need to order rotors) the subaru caliper idea. You are right about the rotor being small. But I have the calipers so I figure I'll try.
What full float system are you referring to that is $300?

Thanks

 

ill have to find where i saw the kit im pretty sure it comes with all the stuff for the swap. and if you want i can give the specs on the subaru rotors i have 2 87's.

 

it was LC Engineering.
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...spx?Class=1303
the only thing i just noticed rereading. it is that they are custom made rotors that they made so it may be a little hard to get replacements not through them. but they do supply a napa part number for the pads. im guessing they are 1500 4x4 brakes.

 

RBX your interior work looks freakin awesome. I'm pumped to see what you do next.

PS. What kind of Insulations did you use? Did it add allot of weight?

 

im pretty sure i will be doing the same with the soundproofing if thats a word. i know dynamat is the best but very pricey. will do it on bout my runner and my lil subie.

 

SHaggy: Have you heard about it if it adds allot of weight. everything I have read said it can get really heavy.

 

yeah it will ad some weight but i would think it wouldnt me more then the weight of putting a set of nice plate bumpers on. and thinking about it that may be a bit of a stretch saying it may weigh that much. i have never done it but as i have a very nice sound system in my runner and my subie has so much road noise i really want to do it. after i get my swap done on my runner im gonna take my subie apart and do it when i do the engine swap on that and i may even do the inside over again.

 

I didn't use dynamat, and the five rolls of 1/8" duct rape was very light, and the roofing butyl, i'd say total was under 40lbs, easy.
Something i am noticing now after driving around a bit i can say that there is a tremendous amount of noise generated from the air rushing over the truck. The little rain gutters, wipers, mirrors, vented cowl... you get what I'm saying. Now I'm not saying tit's noisier then before, but that it isn't the most streamlined vehicle. With that said, no amount of sound deadening will eliminate the drag coming off of those components. My efforts to deaden the truck has worked really well,it is definitely quieter, from engine noise, efan, road(i don't have big mud shoes) and exhaust(no-cat, cherry bomb, flowmaster 40, and 2.25" pipe from collector back).

I also added the grey SR5 seats, but no pics yet. Steam cleaned them, and they feel soooo firm, like they haven't been sat in, i know impossible. My 14 year old son was the first to remark on how nice they were compared to the other stock SR5 seats!
I still need to get the back seats in.
Once i get the rear seats in I'll get some shots , and i should have the under radio switch console started.

and i got the can-back on, tinited the two side windows, ran out before i could do the back and then it snowed.

 

how much did it end up sound proofing ur runner. i took the all the interior out of my hatch an holy balls i never heard so much road noise in my life. i guy i work with told me to use hvac insulation. he said its like dynamat but much cheaper.

 

Top looks real nice, i haven't put mine on yet. These <30* mornings are too cold for me.

 

Shag,
I used the HVAC duct wrap you can find at Home Depot (a 15' roll, 1/8" thick, by 12"). I can't really say how much it changed the interior because i didn't take any db measurements. However, compared to riding in a non-sound dampened runner, it is quite significant. You can have a normal volume conversation at highway speed, and bumps and jolts don't sound so harsh. Stop on by and i take you for a ride so you can hear for yourself. A plane ticket to Baltimore, would probably be cheaper then the Dynamat, haha.

Swim,
we had a really warm week last, uh, week. And i planned on just cleaning the top and putting it on, but then didn't want to take it off. The top is much quieter then a Heep top, and so far my tint job is holding up. I still need to polish the exterior windows, but i already did the inside so i could tint the windows on clean vinyl. Thanks

 

rb, do you get any exhaust fumes in the cab with the softopper? have you taken it on the highway yet?

 

I have had issues with fumes whenever i open the rear window. Highway speeds seem to be better, but still present. I haven't had the back window rolled up yet, to see how the soft-top does. I'm guessing it will be the same. I have a spoiler to put on my hard-top, but not sure what i will do about the soft-top as of yet. With the soft-top buttoned up i get no fumes in the cab.

 

That Soft topper looks awesome I just bought one from Fred maryland. back in nov, I haven't put it on yet but cant wait to use it.

 

^^^Thanks, Next will be some tube doors to complete open feel. I think i have a good idea how to make my power window and mirror wires easy to be disconnected from the door jam.
And when i say 'NEXT' i really mean when i can get to it because something else isn't more important or a priority.

 

Soft top looks great!

 

Thanks Rob


In other news

I finally installed my LEDs to show me when the HI or Lo speed fan is running.
Right now they are just LEDs soldered to wires, so no pics yet.
Drove down the road, light came on after a few minutes, seemed about right, then i hit the highway, and figured it would turn off`..... well.... it didn't. I am 99.99999% sure my fan is not running the entire time i am driving, especially on the highway.
So i am guessing the fan is generating enough current when air speed is enough to spin the efan. I don't know much about this, but i thinjk i need to put a diode in line so the LEDs don't pick-up the fan becoming a generator.
And here i thought i got a few things done yesterday.