Spacemonkee23

Those tires look fairly new but when I had my old worn out Trail Digger MTs on I thought it was wheel bearings making LOUD noise pretty much at all times loudest while turning. One blew out before I could do the bearings so I ended up getting the 31" Toyo OC R/T's plus and alignment. It was the first alignment since I owned it and apparently the whole front end was way off. Driving away from the tire shop I could barely hear any noise.

Now, when the tires get to about 5000 miles or so I start to hear the howl. That's when I know its time to rotate them, sound goes away until its time to rotate again. I'd say rotate your tires and see if the sound is the same or not. Could be an alignment issue too, how is the tire ware?

Always do cheap and easy stuff before you get into the expensive/intrusive work.

89fourrunner

Figured it out! The wiring mod worked! It was a big part of the problem. I also needed a starter, and thats what made the whole situation so confusing. With both the wiring problem and the worn starter it was clicking all the time. With just a new starter and the original wiring it clicked a lot less, but still clicked. Once I did the wiring mod with a new starter its been trouble free. Strong, quick consistant cranks.

Amazing! Thanks again!

RAD4Runner

Most welcome, I'm glad to help.

Makes sense. After you fixed the wiring problem (from the factory), and you get strong click from solenoid, but still having issue with cranking the starter (assuming good battery), this is very typical symptom of bad solenoid contacts.
Cheers!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Since I have done the wiring trick on several trucks, I have never gotten a click only start. Not once. A great fix.

RAD4Runner

Really cool to know that, Terry.

All,
I posted issue with my upper radiator hose on this thread. (Hose too short, rubs against intake air duct and has a kink). I hope you could help.

RAD4Runner

Time to flush my cooling system, but before I do it wanna gather all necessary parts and plan what other things I should do while system is drained:

1) Clean coolant temp sensors (temp indicator sender, CSI timer switch, coolant temp sensor) and connections.
2) Replace thermostat with dual-stage one (PN 90916-03070), because I like the extra protection and theoretically faster response of the dual-stage
3) Install temp gage sender in port behind the last freeze plug (here), and send to gauge that displays actual coolant temp, unlike the stock one.
4) [ADDED] Replace ill-fitting upper radiator hose.

Questions for you folks, Toyota TSB (TSB: 029032787 22R-E Engine Temperature Overshoot) that instructs to replace with dual-stage tstat mentions only some 1984 pick ups and 1983-84 Celica's with 22R-E engine.
Have you had any experience using dual-stage thermostat PN 90916-03070 on 1986 to 1988 22R-E's?

What gauge that displays actual temp are you running on your 22R-E? What temp range did you get? Are you satisfied with it? Any brand I should avoid?

TIA

two-stage thermostat

osv

i've been running the toyota factory dual-stage thermostat in my 22re, it works great: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

RAD4Runner

This is with Trucklites aimed a little too low. Haven't adjusted it yet. Will update when I do.

Halogen in Auto-Pal Housing Low:


Trucklites LED Low:


Halogen in Auto-Pal housing High:


Trucklites LED High:


TRUCK-LITES CUT-OFF


TRUCK-LITES 27450C, LOW-BEAM IN OCOTILLO, CA

AUTO-PAL H4 CONVERSION HOUSING WITH SYLVANIA STANDARD SILVERSTARS:

TRUCK-LITES 27450C, LEAVING SPLIT MOUNTAIN, ANZA-BORREGO, CA

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The kink you are showing in the other thread from what I can see is nothing to be concerned with. I would not consider it a kink. As far as the hoses touching each other, Probably most of the trucks I work on touch each other.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Terry. I'm putting that kink lower in my list of priorities, partly because...

In the past couple of months, I observed my coolant temp go higher than usual a few times. I flushed, rinsed and replaced coolant last week Then, yesterday, driving withAC on in 3-digit temps in San Fernando Valley, So Cal, it did it again. Turning off the AC brought the temp down. No big hills, just driving around 70MPH on freeway so I still think somethings wrong. Today, I removed my grille and bumper to straighten condenser coil fins, and other fins I could access, and also remove bugs, etc from the fins.
Then I noticed the condition of the radiator. The fins are corroded and crumble when I tried to pick bugs etc from them with tip of bamboo BBQ stick. Radiator was replaced by The Truck Shop in San Diego when I had my engine rebuilt in September 2013, so it was supposed to be brand-new. However, it looks worse than expected for a 3-YO radiator, used in very mild conditions in So Cal.

What do you guys think? It has a sticker by CSF, so I'll also ask the company if it has any kind of warranty that could cover this.

I expect a 3-YO radiator operated in mild conditions in So Cal to be much better than this. Your thoughts please?

Gevo

Only 3 years old??? I got this radiator about 2 years ago and my engine has never once gotten warmer than even slightly below the middle mark. Driven it up the grapevine (long hill) with AC... no budge. It was cheap, but it looks like the day I bought it and has worked perfectly. It is thicker than original, but eventually it fits.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-ALL-AL...dXs7RQ&vxp=mtr

old87yota

Interesting...
I have a CSF radiator in my truck that replaced the original that is now about 6 years old. I do not remember the model number but it still looks pretty new. There is only slight corrosion on the top tank lip because the upper radiator hose was leaking. I live in Oregon so I don't have any of the rust issues found elsewhere. The radiator is in my 1987 2wd truck so it might be a different radiator than yours.

What did the radiator looks like when it was put in?

Do you happen to drive through puddles of radiator rust solution often?

This seems strange for a California truck.

I will take pictures of mine and post them tomorrow.

osv

that csf radiator looks like it's been leaking for awhile.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Gevo, for the tip on aluminum radiator. Yes, temp on Grapevine is an excellent benchmark because I go on that often to get to destinations up north. Two years ago, my temp stayed normal up there. This time, I had to turn off my AC. I'll check with seller if they have one that would fit first-gen.

LOL! No rust puddle - LOL!
I do not remember how it looked like down there (where it's not hidden behind other coils), when I picked it up from the shop.

Yeah, that's what I thought. External corrosion like that seems unusually bad for a 3 year-old radiator.
I'm gonna contact shop about it. Shop was supposed to install new radiator, but I have a feeling the mech doing it may have taken a shortcut, saw the radiator was OK and left it there. God#@&$n, If you want it done right, definitely do it yourself.

ALL,
Any other recommendation for OEM or better rads?
Cheers!

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Hey Ray,

That radiator looks older than 3 years. Look at my build thread pages 17 and 18. I have had both an aluminum and csf (current) radiator, my CSF still looks new but it's not 3 years old yet.

Grego

RAD4Runner

Thanks for all the input, guys!

Meanwhile, to help minimize pebble strike and keep dead bugs off the radiator/condenser...

Nervo19

I like the Gutter Guard just because it looks good! If it helps that's a bonus.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I use the factory radiators and get them from junk yards. The Preston flush kit you get at the part stores will not get all of the build up out of the radiator. You will need to pull the radiator and take it to a radiator repair shop and have them to flush it. They have a power flusher and it basically looks like a car wash wand. They will flush the radiator from radiator fill hole down to the lower hose and then from the lower hose to the fill hole. Each time they do that, you will be amazed at how much muddy water comes out. That is some nasty stuff they flush out.

I cant tell if that is just debris from the road you have or if the radiator is just corroding away on you. It has been over 20 years ago but I had a radiator flushed with in 5 miles of 32nd street Navy base in San Diego. Not sure how far from that area you are from but they were able to do it for me when I was there.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Terry.
You're right. using the "light-duty" method with Prestone Flush does not take as much dirt out.
The back of the bottle also mentions "heavy-duty" flush procedure where flushing solution is left in system and the vehicle driven about 6 hours over a couple of days. We did that to my daughter's Corolla. When first drained, so-called "long-life" coolant was still a good, clean pink color. However, at end of "heavy-duty" flush, this is how dark the water was that I drained out:

I then rinsed over and over, both using water hose into the heater hose, and by refilling with water and running engine until the cooling fan turned on, then draining.

Will try the "heavy-duty" method on my truck, too, and will report back.

RAD4Runner

Door panel mod completed. Updated write-up here.