RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up
#501
Hi,
As you know, I have already fixed the improper wiring (by Toyota) of the starter relay and truck had started flawlessly since then. However, now I get the click-only problem once in a while. The solenoid contacts must now be very bad. I do not have time to rebuild so I just want to replace with OEM starter.
If you have ever bought OEM Toyota starter, where did you find the best deal?
TIA and regards,
Ray
As you know, I have already fixed the improper wiring (by Toyota) of the starter relay and truck had started flawlessly since then. However, now I get the click-only problem once in a while. The solenoid contacts must now be very bad. I do not have time to rebuild so I just want to replace with OEM starter.
If you have ever bought OEM Toyota starter, where did you find the best deal?
TIA and regards,
Ray
#504
I have never bought a new Denso starter. I have several in storage and just grab one of them so I cant help as far as feed back on those. Being a Denso I would trust it to be great.
#505
Refurbished Quarter Vent Louver
When rubber slats on the quarter vent louver are gone, water sprayed horizontally (such as from car wash) could get inside the body panels and cause damage such as shorting/corroding the rear window/wiper control relay module.
I used rubber sheet from Marshall's Industrial Hardware that's approximately 1/32-inch thick to make the slats...

Here I marked where to slit/poke holes for mounting...
Assembled:

Assembly detail:

I used soldering iron to remove mushroom head on plastic heat stake and re-staked after installing slats.
Here are retainers needed for First-gen MoreFunner...

It is almost impossible to remove vent cover without breaking these retainers so make sure you have some ready before starting the project.
Upper retainers are PN 62955-89101, 4 per side on first-gen MoreFunner
Lowers are PN 62955-91C01, 1 per side on first-gen MoreFunner


Louver re-installed:
I used rubber sheet from Marshall's Industrial Hardware that's approximately 1/32-inch thick to make the slats...

Here I marked where to slit/poke holes for mounting...

Assembled:

Assembly detail:

I used soldering iron to remove mushroom head on plastic heat stake and re-staked after installing slats.
Here are retainers needed for First-gen MoreFunner...

It is almost impossible to remove vent cover without breaking these retainers so make sure you have some ready before starting the project.
Upper retainers are PN 62955-89101, 4 per side on first-gen MoreFunner
Lowers are PN 62955-91C01, 1 per side on first-gen MoreFunner


Louver re-installed:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Sep 24, 2014 at 07:18 PM.
#507
Thanks for sharing info on your roof rack install. I finally competing (just 2 more bolts to do) mine.
#508
Weird but I was going to say the exact same thing. I used bike tube too and was wondering about replacement retainers. Great detective work on the part numbers. I had thought about supplementing the retainers with 3M emblem tape.
#510
Spartan Headliner and Backing Plate /Mounting of Roof Rack
LOL! Yeah got road bike inner tube from office mate and it turned out too narrow and with too much curvature.
I actually got the P/N/s from Terry. I merely photographed and noted required quantities for the MoreFunner.
I detest those hidden fasteners; I tried replacing them with expansion nut-bolt combination but because of different curvature between body panel and the plastic vent cover, lining up the expansion nuts, and bolts squarely became a challenge.
BTW thanks, RBX and Mark, for the ideas on the roof rack and headliner. I had to do them in parallel because headliner interior trim and roof rack mounts are interdependent... Will post write-up later, but here are teasers...
Anti-fatigue headliner - LOL! Idea stolen from Mark.


Orange cord is for general-purpose attachment for future accessories. It is attached to cable clamps secured to bottom end of roof rack mounting bolt.

Backing Plate of roof rack mount in front:

Test Fit:

Trim and Cord Installed:

I have since replaced the nylon clamps with more robust rubber-covered steel ones.
This type headliner reminds me of the the Troopy's here. No dusty, crumbly stufff...
I actually got the P/N/s from Terry. I merely photographed and noted required quantities for the MoreFunner.

I detest those hidden fasteners; I tried replacing them with expansion nut-bolt combination but because of different curvature between body panel and the plastic vent cover, lining up the expansion nuts, and bolts squarely became a challenge.
BTW thanks, RBX and Mark, for the ideas on the roof rack and headliner. I had to do them in parallel because headliner interior trim and roof rack mounts are interdependent... Will post write-up later, but here are teasers...
Anti-fatigue headliner - LOL! Idea stolen from Mark.


Orange cord is for general-purpose attachment for future accessories. It is attached to cable clamps secured to bottom end of roof rack mounting bolt.

Backing Plate of roof rack mount in front:

Test Fit:

Trim and Cord Installed:

I have since replaced the nylon clamps with more robust rubber-covered steel ones.
This type headliner reminds me of the the Troopy's here. No dusty, crumbly stufff...
Last edited by RAD4Runner; May 3, 2018 at 08:42 PM.
#513
That is a great keeping the water out. Something I will work on. I dont remember if it was you or someone else that said it is possible to save your bottom clips by prying the top and middle of the trim off and it will break those clips and then lift the trim up and that would save the lower clips. I havent got to try that yet. I tired it on my 85 but some one had installed some home made clips that I am going to replace anyways. Really no way of saving the clips that I know of as there is no access to them but that should work for the bottom clips.
#514
#515
Great thread and build!
I'm looking forward to seeing how you do your roof rack.
When you did your headlights did you think about adding a NO Relay to the highbeam circuit to power driving lights? I'm headed down that path now, as I'd like to add a small LED light bar to the front bumper.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you do your roof rack.
When you did your headlights did you think about adding a NO Relay to the highbeam circuit to power driving lights? I'm headed down that path now, as I'd like to add a small LED light bar to the front bumper.
#516
#517
Dude, .....your a great read! Miss chatting with you! Great loooovers! Lol... AWESOME in the clips! My passenger side on the donor silverback is a little wobbly and rattling around. I need to check that out!
#518
Input on Denso remanned starters:
You can get the one for the Auto transmission (part 280-0131) and it will bolt in just fine on a 22RE with a manual. That is what I did on mine. The starter for the auto is 1.4kW and the manual is 1.0kW. Just a bigger motor. Seemed like a worthy upgrade to me. It really makes the 22RE hump!
You can get the one for the Auto transmission (part 280-0131) and it will bolt in just fine on a 22RE with a manual. That is what I did on mine. The starter for the auto is 1.4kW and the manual is 1.0kW. Just a bigger motor. Seemed like a worthy upgrade to me. It really makes the 22RE hump!
#519
Input on Denso remanned starters:
You can get the one for the Auto transmission (part 280-0131) and it will bolt in just fine on a 22RE with a manual. That is what I did on mine. The starter for the auto is 1.4kW and the manual is 1.0kW. Just a bigger motor. Seemed like a worthy upgrade to me. It really makes the 22RE hump!
You can get the one for the Auto transmission (part 280-0131) and it will bolt in just fine on a 22RE with a manual. That is what I did on mine. The starter for the auto is 1.4kW and the manual is 1.0kW. Just a bigger motor. Seemed like a worthy upgrade to me. It really makes the 22RE hump!
WOW. Thanks! Really appreciate that. I had been wondering why there are the 1.0 kW and the 1.4kW. Toyota still makes the 1.4kW but not the 1.0 kW , anymore.
Best regards,
Ray
#520
Comparing Good and Worn Out Fan Clutch aka Liquid Coupling
Comparing Good and Worn Out Fan Clutch aka Liquid Coupling
Fluid coupling is strongest when fan clutch is sensing hot air = fan speed follows pulley speed more closely than when fan clutch is sensing cold air.
After stopping from a drive that brought engine to normal operating temp, leave engine idling for several minutes to make sure that fan clutch is ONLY sensing air from fan, not highway wind. Wait for engine to sound like it's straining - meaning liquid coupling is max. When you shut off ignition, the fan should stop within a couple of seconds (2-3 on my new one) like this:
When fan does not follow pulley speed as closely even when sensing hot air from radiator, this means that fan clutch is worn. On my older fan clutch, under same conditions, fan kept on turning about 6 to 8 seconds after engine was turned off.
Can be refurbished or merely replaced with Aisin brand for around $40.
Keywords:
fanclutch, liquidcoupling, liquid coupling, fan clutch, overheat
Fluid coupling is strongest when fan clutch is sensing hot air = fan speed follows pulley speed more closely than when fan clutch is sensing cold air.
After stopping from a drive that brought engine to normal operating temp, leave engine idling for several minutes to make sure that fan clutch is ONLY sensing air from fan, not highway wind. Wait for engine to sound like it's straining - meaning liquid coupling is max. When you shut off ignition, the fan should stop within a couple of seconds (2-3 on my new one) like this:
When fan does not follow pulley speed as closely even when sensing hot air from radiator, this means that fan clutch is worn. On my older fan clutch, under same conditions, fan kept on turning about 6 to 8 seconds after engine was turned off.
Can be refurbished or merely replaced with Aisin brand for around $40.
Keywords:
fanclutch, liquidcoupling, liquid coupling, fan clutch, overheat
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Oct 30, 2019 at 09:11 PM.








