Time to finish up the cooling system, so I replaced the heater hoses and clamps with OEM parts:











I filled the system with Toyota Long Life Coolant, and burped it:




Then buttoned it all up with a new OEM cap:

 

Here are some of the hoses installed, I still need to get a shot of the heater hoses:

 

So an interesting finding after replacing the heater lines - my heater now works! Woohoo! Not sure why - I had previously manually moved the water valve to the open position, and blew through the heater hoses to make sure the heater core was not clogged, and neither were the engine passages. Still no heat. I did the same thing again when I replaced the heater hoses, and voila, we have heat! No idea why, but I won't question success.

However, you'll be shocked to hear that the temperature control cable does not work. I can move the lever from cool to warm, and nothing happens to the cable inside the engine bay. So I'm guessing it's unhooked somewhere near the heater core? I think I read about that being a thing in these trucks. I have a new blower resistor on order (since it now only works on max), so I'll tackle these projects at the same time.

 

the blower resistor is easy to swap out. can be done without removing the glove box. i just swapped the blower in one of my '87s with one from my '88 parts rig. took about 20 minutes. added the toyota oem resistor at the same time, since low speed didn't work.


edit: i believe your hvac faceplate is from an earlier year (pre-1987).

 

Oh that's good to know, thanks Wally.

And yes, I remember you calling out the wrong faceplate during the auction - I have the correct one ready to put in. What holds them in place?

 

After watching this video, I figured I might as well order a new cable and clamp for the water valve, before diving into the project. There is a small chance that the cable is just disconnected, but seeing everything else on this truck, my bet is that it's broken. Might as well have the new parts on hand before tearing into it, to avoid doing it twice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7ILP...rtyFingerNails

 

here are a few close-ups of the upper lid hinge...i have one of the four possible dividers that go in the upper bin (both 4runners have the double box).






and a pic of the blower resistor under the passenger dash..remove that screw, and the resistor pulls out easily.


and the blower - this can be removed without pulling the glove box, too. only have to remove the kick panel cover to get to the three screws (and you can see the resistor/proximity to the blower).

 

Thanks Wally! I can't find these on any parts diagram, but I'll keep sleuthing.

 

The engine bay is finally looking good:




I'm still taking care of a few other miscellaneous things with the parts I have on hand, while waiting for my $700 order to ship from Amayama...

Thanks to some awesome tips from @SomedayJ about how things were originally routed under the hood, I installed this clamp to hold the two idle up hoses together:





Next I replaced the aftermarket cruise control vacuum line with an OEM piece, and used a clamp to attach it to the air hose. Before:




Hose:



Clamp:



After:

 

I didn't like the aftermarket negative battery terminal. Since the original one is discontinued, I got the next best thing, a terminal from an Avalon. Not original, but still a Toyota part!

Before:



Avalon terminal:



Comparison:



Final:

 

On to Wally's comment about the HVAC faceplate. I bought just the label sheet, and I think you can also buy the entire trim panel. I would do the latter next time, that label sheet was a project to peel off.

New label:



Comparison:



The old label was very brittle, and broke up into many pieces:




After cleaning off all the residue, it was time to install the new one. To answer my earlier question, the label has pre-applied double sided tape, so it's easy peasy:





Back to OEM look:

 

And finally for today, I installed the replacement dome light assembly, since the original one was missing the lever. My original plan was to just swap the lever, since the original assembly was gray and the replacement is black. But the lever attachments appeared to be different between the two (despite the identical part number shown on back), so I just swapped the entire assembly:





I'll leave the painting project for another day. Just as I will the sagging headliner that I noticed when messing with the dome lamp. Sigh...

 

nice replacement of the hvac panel. i need to do that on both of mine - breaks/holes in both from 37+ years exposure/use.

for the power steering idle-up hoses, the clamp you installed is one part, but there is also a bridge that attaches to the head cover (valve cover).. the clamp is visible in both of the pictures, as is the bridge, mounted just forward of one of the vsv units.

 

Thanks Wally, it does look much nicer with the correct HVAC plate.

And thanks for the point about the idle-up hose bracket on the valve cover. I'm aware that it's missing, but it's discontinued. I've been trying to find a used one, but so far no luck. Got a spare?

 

i'm missing it on one of my '87s, too.

 

OK, I'll keep an eye out for two of those then.

 

Glad I can help. Your 4Runner keeps getting better. Thank you for all the pics, OEM parts numbers and details.

 

Found out the hard (scary) way on a drive today that the horn doesn't work. Another project! The ratio of of what works on this truck vs what doesn't work is pretty sad.

 

Here's a first on this thread, a project that didn't cost any money! My buddy adjusted the clutch pedal and the neutral safety switch so that I no longer have to mash the clutch pedal all the way through the carpet to get it to start, and to change gears. Gotta love the freebies!

Before adjustment:




After adjustment:

 

Leon, your attention to detail and quality is not lost on us. Lucy is in good hands. Can't wait to see her emerge.

As far as BAT goes, I would contact them for sure with what you are finding. I have a friend that works for BAT I could ping to see what he thinks