I've found it very hard to drop oil pan without removing front diff.

I'm not sure if I would take the engine that far apart and just put the head back on with no work done to it. I don't want to spend your money fmoneyu. I guess when you get the head off you can look at the condition, but I'd keep the option in mind to either rework that head or buy new one.

 

 

Cory, yea, I've heard you can loosen it and rotate it out of the waw though, did you have to totally remove it?

I'm prepared to replace whatever needs it once i get into it, just need to prevent myself from running down the rabbit trail and turning this into a year long project

 

I have shops nearby, what should a valve job cost on a 22re?

Gas mileage for the last fillup was 15.1. running bigger tires, but when I compared the speedo to a gps one, it was pretty much spot on, i think a previous owner swapped the gears, or at least the speedo gear. Point is i think that's accurate mileage, so yea, not great, less than I was getting 2 years ago (18)

 

Sp#2

 

Cyl 2

 

coolant

 

Progress

 

 

 

Thanks for the confirmation

What you see in the pics above + getting the diff lowered and motor mounts off is all I got done yesterday. Need to jack the engine up and put in 2x4 spacers, drop the oil pan, remove intake and exhaust, and remove head.
Unfortunately I need to work on a final homework project today, possibly much of this week. Maybe I can get the head off tonight.

Once I get the head off I'll put together a parts order, OEM wherever possible
OEM head gasket and bolts for starters. I found this kit, but I already have valve cover gasket and half moons, do I need the others? Seem to have seen plenty of threads not mentioning any other gaskets, but I could also see new exhaust and intake gaskets being useful.

Anyone have recommendations for piston rings? LCE has Hastings, . I'll obviously get a better look at the pistons when the head comes off, I need to figure out if those have a habit of failing and need replaced, or if they can be re-used.

Haven't yet begun to look at head/valve stuff.

92 Toy has an awesome thread I need to read through a couple more times.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/

 

Pulling the engine today so I can work on it properly, planning on disconnecting at the bell housing

2 noob questions
1 anything about lining up the output shaft I need to be aware of?
2 the 2 big hooks on the head can be used for pulling the engine? Or will that damage the head?
3 any other landmines to worry about?

 

 

Thanks for the reply! Just making sure they were fir the whole block, not just the head


Today i got the diff back in and everything else off, tomorrow i should just need to disconnect the fuel line and bell housing bolts, and pluckeroo, finally get a look inside

 

Just make sure you get all the bell housing (and starter) bolts out, there's some facing backwards and from memory at least one of them is a little hidden from plain sight. If you're leaving it under the truck, put a stand under it.

You'll have to wrestle the engine more than you think to break it loose, so definitely pull the radiator to protect it. Removing the lower engine mounts has helped me if it really won't budge.

Crack the fuel line with a flare nut wrench at the filter if you're gonna replace it (way easier to remove it's banjo bolts when attached to the block). About a cup of gas will pour out.

 

Good to know, i was just trying to wrestle it a minute ago
got the 2 top, 2 bottom, starter, exhaust bracket... Need to take another closer look and verify i didn't miss any

Is a putty scraper to help separate a good idea, or am i going to mess up a mating surface?

 

Don't use anything to pry it apart, check all the way around again for extra bolts, there's at least 8 of them, iirc. You can bang the sides with a rubber mallet but grabbing the engine while rocking from side to side and pulling will free it eventually. Once in a while change the height of either the engine, tranny or both. If you didn't work up a sweat, you didn't do it right.

 

Got it, thanks!
sounds like i just need to spend some more time yanking on it

100 and humid today, i worked up a sweat before I even picked up a wrench, ug

 

Oh gross, it's about 75° almost everyday here in Ecuador.

Last time I pulled an engine, it was also around 100° and humid in southern Ohio. Better too hot than freezing cold for that job, though.

 

Ecuador is beautiful, from what I've seen, would love to travel there some day!
and yea, i much prefer the heat. Once you're soaked in sweat you quickly get over it, cold on the other hand never gets better