Well take the driveshaft off and see if it's still there. What's your castor at? Are you running a double cardon joint driveshaft?

 

Just the stock driveshaft at this point. Haven't checked castor, but it's not a front end wobble it seems like a driveline type of noise. The only thing that is baffling is that it goes away once I shift into fourth.

 

I was planning on having it lengthened but should I just run a double cardon?

 

It all depends on how your tcase and diff flanges align

 

What are the pros and cons for running a double cardon? I will be daily driving her for a while.

 

My Double Cardon, (cv) is working out splendidly on my rear DS.


The cv was removed from the stock ifs front drive shaft.

 

I am not aware of any cons on this setup. Maybe you have to just lube and check them more often.

 

This is why I ran a CV.

 

Thanks Teuf, good info. I think I will throw my cv on the back shaft this week.

 

Cool, look at the illustrations, you may not need the cv. It all depends on your flange alignment as BigBlue said.

 

With my rear lift i had vibration issues. My rear pinion pointed up to the transfer case flange. Not the ideal set up for U joints on both ends. So on went the CV.

 

My rear diff input flange is pointed directly at my tcase output flange, so it's just like the diagram with the double cardan.

 

There ya go. And save the U joint thats removed and you may need that on the front DS at some point.

 

Will do. Thanks again.

 

I am in need of some advice on the front driveshaft. What has everyone done to get enough angle on the driveshaft. I tried a spicer cv that had 20* flex but that was maxed in a resting position. I need some suggestions please.

 

You could try to do a little work to make the front joints flex more.. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

"Toyota driveshaft CV joints, also known as "double cardan" joints, come in several different varieties. The ones in the front of straight axle (pre-'86) Toy's came from the factory with a max operating angle of about 35 degrees. The '84 and '85 versions are especially sought-after since they will bolt right up to later model trucks and the pre-'84's use smaller, weaker bolts. The joints that come in the front of IFS Toy's can usually only go to about 25 degrees or less in stock form, and the ones that came in two-piece rear driveshafts are similar. The max angle of these later joints isn't enough for use in the front of a lifted, flexy, straight-axle rig without damaging the joint (pushing it past its max angle), but it can be modified to achieve the higher angles. And since IFS CV's are generally cheaper and easier to come by, this is modification is fairly common. Some driveline shops like High Angle Driveline can modify your joint for you, or you can do it yourself. All that needs to be done to the joint is some minor clearancing (grinding) inside, but to do that you have to disassemble the joint-- and that can be the tricky part. This article shows the method I use to get the joint apart, and where and how to clearance it for more angle."




Other options would be, lower your truck, or a transfer case drop, or a drive line built to handle the angles you need.

 

Thanks for the good info. I think I am just going to head to the local driveshaft shop and see how much they want to gouge me for a shaft.

 

It will be expensive..... Make your own. If I can anybody can.