sorry guys no pink








somthing ive wanted done for awhile

 

and yes I know there is paint were there shouldnt be LOL Im not quite done yet.my imediate goal is to get this thing running again but I still have to throw the free stuff or cheap stuff in to keep moving thats why the tail gate kinda jumped ahead of plans alittle.

 

Hahahaa.... I was just messin on the pink. Anyway, ...LOOKS QUALITY, MAN! Great job!

 

Thanks mark its be a lot of work I appreciate the kind words, hoping to hear it run real soon.

 

coming along great, hope it goes great

 

looks good man i like the tailgate

 

looks good man, i dig that yellow would look good with a black top!

 

Thats quite a bit of work done. Getting it prepped for paint, and can tell you removed quite a few parts and reinstalled them. Looks good. Its one step closer.

 

Thanks twisted its Just slow going

Thanks NV I have a lot of reasons for doing the tail gate swap that will kind of come out later.

Aaron I like bright colors I wanted something that stood out but there sure are a lot of yellow 4runners out there, big plans for the top but yes it will be black.


Terry I tried to remove everything I could and still wound up with paint in places I didn't want but I'm happy with how it turned out.

 

my buddy did the truck gate to so he could mount his spare 37 to the role bar in the back and have just that little bit of room. also i have always liked kiwi green on these year runners man that and hunter orange

 

how the heck did you manage to paint that engine bay. I can't even figure out how to clean it let alone paint it. very good attention to detail. very good indeed.

 

Haha NV great minds think alike, the first time I painted mine it was orange but being in TN everyone thought it was a VOLS thing you know college colors being a NE fan that didn't cut it, my first color choice this time was kiwi green but I wanted the engine yellow and I didn't think the green and yellow went together so I settled on all yellow. The tail gate swap for what I have planed just made sense, for a lot of reasons, like I said before.

92 thanks so much for the complement I'm trying really hard to do this right but man it seems like I'm not getting much done, but its getting there slowly.

 

completely forgot about the vols man i have family that loves them and yeah i can see how people who are fans of the vols would think you are with the orange paint they take being a fan to another level sometimes

on another note antifreeze green is cool to but i can see the problem with yellow

and getting there with quality slowly is better than fast spotty work that you will have to redo later

 

ok guys I need some help/advice/opinions, I keep running into these self imposed road blocks, and Im not sure how to work around or remove them what I meen is there are alot of things I want to do but I feel like there is an order in which they should be done and some things that it only makes sense to do at certain times, am I makeing sense? for example if you look at my engine bay pics you will notice I did not reinstall my brake booster and m/c becouse I want to up grade it and it doesnt make sense to me to put the old one back on and take it back off later, another example would be my bumpers I dont want to mount them becouse I would like to do a 2 inch body lift and drive train lift but do I do this befor I put the engine back in and so on. so Im going to try and lay out a few plans and ask your advice on an orderin which to acomplish them

as mentioned bodylift/drivtrain lift
I want to run a min 33 in tire prefer 35 so Ideas on a mild lift for now
dual trans cases
regear to 4.88 and lock the rear
on the lift Im thinking bj spacers and zuk mod or and ing springs I have a spare set out of my parts truck
this is just kind of a start I really want to get this thing back were I can drive it, I just dont want to have to remove and replace the same bolts 30 times to get to the end product, I know some things will have to be done that waybut I would like to try and keep it to minamum. thanks in advance for your input.

 

ok well, lets see

on the brake booster it depends on how soon you will get the better one. do you plan on moving the truck any time soon? after the truck is painted or you gonna start driving in and if so will you have your new booster before or right after paint is done.

for the body lift, you can do it with the engine in, the only thing you will have to worry about is if you have a mechanical fan and a shroud on the radiator. and you may need the engine in the engine bay to do the drive train lift so you can figure out how to make your motor mounts

as far as bumpers you could worry about those later after you get it running and driving. sense you have to have the bumpers of to paint

as far as tires. people can fit 33's with hammering some of the inner fender and pinch weld on the firewall, so with a 2 in body lift 33's shouldnt have any problems and for 35's you can hammer the pinch weld or do something like bj spacers and a zuk mod or add a leaf, chevy springs or lift springs.

for dual cases you will want to do the body/drivetrain lift first then make your mounts for it all at one time

id say do all the interior painting now while it is gutted and then engine and wiring, tht way you can drive it and then worry about exterior paint, then body/drive lift and dual cases, lift and 35's

 

thanks twisted I dont need to move it anytime soon but it would be nice to have my shop not tied up kinda frustraiting to have to change oil brakes etc on my other vehicals out side ya know. the booster thing thing was more of an example of me starting one thing and it not getting completely put back together, but I understand what you are saying with the rest.

 

so here is an idea man do all the things you would like extra room for like any thing with the transmission and if at all possible try and do your body lift and drive-train lift before you go bolting it all together that way you have a little wiggle room and it may be easier to get the motor mount spacers in wile the motor is out and the transmission will be easier to move also and doing the suspension wile it is not under load will help to just my thought .2cents also dont get in a rush do drive it and skimp on what you want it to be or do

 

Thanks for the input NV. I have spoke to a few people outside this thread and the last thing I want is for anyone to think that I'm asking for advice and them waisting there time, that is not at all the case I agree getting it running should be first, and that's what I want to do, however I just don't want to repeat the same work. But I think my goal right now is Just to get the engine back in and at least hear it run.

 

You'll get 3.5-4" minimum out of Zuk 14"x100# coils. That, and bj spacers plus a few turns on the tbars, ...you'll clear 33's with no rubbing, I'd bet....w/out the Body Lift, etc. The diff drop, etc., is up to you, lol. 35's wouldn't take much more , if anything, Jason... I've seen many guys do it, and they're mainly the "I'm not a big fan of high center of gravity mods" type guys, ya know? lol.

Can't wait, man! Excited for ya... it's amazing how once you get going on ONE THING, ....it hits a point where it just starts to FLY back together/toward completion! i KNOW, you're not near done, ...but YOU WILL BE, before ya know it, if you just stay focused and ambitious! lol.

 

Thanks mark it Just seems like I suffer from ADD and can't stay focused lol.