Ian, you do really nice set ups! Sick!.... like usual. ... and the doors DO look great. Keep it up, learning each time! Lol

 

Ian,
Sorry, I meant just the part numbers, or material list. Takes me a while to make sure i have the right relay, or LED, or switch...thanks....I have to make two of these.

 

instead of 2 dpdt relays, i used 4 spdt (standard automotive 5-pin) relays. cheap and easy replacements. to make a dpdt relay, wire the coils from 2 spdt relays in parallel. the switch is any spdt switch, and the led indicators are just 12v led's. all of this stuff can be had from ebay, radioshack, or advance-auto-zone.

the wire i got off of ebay here (relays to locker):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-wire-Heavy-Duty-Flat-3-conductor-14-ga-per-10ft-/270384235718?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3ef42804c6&vxp=mtr(or search for 3 flat trailer wire. my local rv shop had plenty of it. you'll need 2 runs/6 conductors)

and the servo wire (relays to switches/led's):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Hitec-Servo-Wire-50-3-Color-57417-NIB-/330867391013?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item4d093bba25(hitec servo wire, comes in 50-foot bundles. again, 2 runs/6 conductors)

not this weekend, but some other weekend, i can swing by and show you my setup (maybe you want some help with your front axle, too?)

 

Thanks Man!
I will certainly let you know, I'm busy this weekend also.

I was going to use the diagram from 4x4wire(i think, It has the three LEDs...lock, locking, unlocking)

 

yeah, this is the circuit i used:



and the post on wiring:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51925020


left-to-right: locker | connections to cable run | under hood | in cab
the terminals of the relay that aren't connected go to ground
wires aren't connected unless there's a -•-

 

Wow! this is one awesome set up. Love the propane tank idea. Gonna have to read back through your thread cuz you've definitely got a sick rig lol. might have to steal this idear from you.

 

Doing an awsome job as always, I got all my parts from radio shack pretty cheap, I see u have decided not to install a resistor in your setup as well. Me too

 

Very clever, I like it.

 

thanks! with the propane tank, you can find tank-to-1/4" pipe adapters easily. drill out the middle of the tank opening to just over a quarter inch (after getting rid of the "schrader" valve) and remove the middle stem from the adapter. make sure the tank is completely empty (it might smell like propane; it's just the non-flammable scent) and don't rinse with water, it'll rust the tank out! (rubbing alcohol will work fine)

this is the adapter i'm talking about:

(you'll need to remove the center "pin" and drill it out a bit for better airflow)
yeah, the locker is on for less than 3 seconds at a time, maybe 10 times a day... i don't think i'll burn up a motor that quick...
thank you

 

Ian, did you have to modify the housing for the elocker where the yellow circle is on the back of the housing. Looks like a dimple to clear a bolt on the locker.

 

When installing mmy elocker we heated tht area up and hit it a few times with a hammer to make room for thr elocker bolt

 

nope. fit right in. but i guess it depends on what gears you have, too. i have the stock 4.10's, so it's the same as the original gear. bigger gears might rub. once you get a few short studs in, put the locker in and turn the pinion. if it rubs, then you know you'll need to clearance it.

this is what's under my rig right now (plus a bit more taken out of the red areas- i didn't measure the first time, d'oh!), plus studs and a locker

 

Thanks

 

What a great Idea!! I would also love to see a writeup on this setup you have here. I never would have thought to use Propane Tanks.

 

writeup? no... more like "i need to make this compressor useful and i have a free weekend"



google search [propane air tank] and there are tons of pictures and write-ups on converting propane tanks to air storage. that, and i posted how i did it here

 

swapped in an energy suspension motor mount this evening



lots of write-ups online, so it was easy. the new mount takes all of the elasticity out of accelerating. not "more" power, rather "more readily-available" power

 

Ian,
I haven't forgotten about getting you the info for the seal adapter on the FF rear. There seems to be a machining issue we are working out at the moment.

 

cool, thanks. looks like it's gonna be a late '13 / early '14 project for me, but i'm still collecting parts.

and for my future sas, i'm now considering leaf suspension in place of links to keep cost down. i hafta think it over, but the option is there

 

Links are more $$, but I always consider two things when doing any modification....
1. Is my effort to install this going to be the same to do either?
2. What's the cost difference between the options?

Btw, anyone doing an SAS, get real familiar with a right angle grinder. You are going to spend lots of time under your truck grinding down all the factory welds(and there are plenty), I think I logged about ten hours total. That's no exaggeration, I actually tried to keep track. That is probably the worst part of an SAS. I'll gladly help anyone do an SAS, but grinding, you are on your own.

 

in this case, the effort will be close to the same, except leaves only require the rear and front frame mounts and there's no panhard (though i might add an anti-wrap bar later)

money-wise, it'll be a bit cheaper with leaves, and time-wise, i can mount some stuff on the truck while the ifs is still on, giving me little down-time.

in the end, they're both money-hungry and involved, but i think i'm better suited for doing leaves right now (it'll cost more money and time for links, and i want to get up and wheeling asap!)

though given the choice (independent of financial restrictions) i wouldn't hesitate to choose links.