If they don't want to answer questions all day, they should at least link their web site/forum that could help clients.
Not answering question is giving them a bad rep.

 

The link to the forums is on their home page at www.ksracing.net

That thread is under "technical support".

I did some research last night and found that the 3VZE and 5VZ-FE both use a 10.5" clutch. I'm going to order a pressure plate for both from WorldPac for comparison, then order an ACT plate for the one that is proper.

I will post all my findings...



edit:
Got the call from the exhaust shop. They have to cut the fanges off of the Tundra manifolds and weld on some universal style flanges. I'm ok with this so that I can find replacement parts in the future. Plus they can make them turn in a bit more to avoid the fuel/brake lines, torsion bar mounts and the frame.

I'm also having them install a flange and gasket just after the y-pipe so that I can remove it to make transmission removal easier later. Especially since I have to change the pressure plate out.

The are going to charge me about $1200.00 + tax for the parts and labor. It's more than I was expecting, but doing it right will make my life easier later, and on the trail if necessary.

 

Please let us know what you do find. I was looking at the KS site and unfortunatly they only sell the fork with the complete kit. I was really hoping that I could buy that seperately, and then use my own clutch set up.

After you having problems, I may just order the housing and buy the clutch for the 3.0 since its so much cheaper than the 3.4. Custom build the flywheel and fork.

You just had to go and throw a monkey wrench into the pile.

Just joking, glad to find out before I ordered the kit and had to replace the clutch again.

 

Hey 85toyman go with the 3.0 flywheel and have it cut then get a bevy duty clutch from marlin that's what I'm doing. Cost me 100 smacks to have it turned I still have to have the clutch surface turned and balanced though.

 

what did you do for the clutch fork? From what I have read the one for the 1uz bell housing is longer than the oe fork. Did you cut yours and just extend it?

By cut do you mean having the mounting holes reamed out? Your going to have it balanced as well as surfaced?

I have changed alot of clutches and have only had them surfaced. I have read that you can use the 3.0 2100 lb clutch from marlin. Can you use the throw out and pilot ect from the 3.0 or did you have to mismatch bearings to get it right?

 

All 3.0 stuff. Fork and all. U just put washers behind the pivot ball to space it out. I'm doing pretty much what 4.0 pickup did

 

What are you guys doing about the input shaft spacing?

 

I think that may be for a different tranny coz the spacer is to small. It may be for a w56 I think

 

Huh, I had to use it when I installed the R150f. At least when I measured it I thought I did, so I installed it. I wonder if I did some dumbass thing and that's why the clutch feels soft and it slips...

I guess I'll find out when I take the tranny back out.

 

Yeah I'm not sure. I haven't got that far yet. But I noticed how small it was for the size of the inputshaft.

 

Even the basic bell housing comes with the bushing from what I have seen. As well as the spacer and input bearing?

Anybody?

I was under the impression that you got those because you needed them. I am glad to hear about the fork working from my oe 3.0 stuff. I guess I can just order the housing and do my own clutch kit. This should save some money.

 

Im not sure and only trowing that. I think there is a difference between the input shaft with the r150 and the r150f. Thats why they put a spacer in the kit.
I didnt get that kit(spacer, bearing, pivot ball etc) I bought 2 pilot bearing to put them back to back in the crank. I took some measurement with a tape measure and my pirate eye. It didnt looked like i needed a spacer.
I then asked yota 3.0 if he remembered about it puting a spacer but he told me no.
Since then, i've done over 4000kms with it and hitted the rev limiter about a million time. If i needed a spacer there, problems would have popped for sure.

 

Yup, you are right. I never even looked at the contents of the basic kit.

I did not install the clutch fork spacer though.

 

Well, I may be in luck. I remember the face of the flywheel being kinda rough, like the surface of a record (remember those?) I'm guessing the clutch was just riding the peaks of those, and not getting enough friction surface to fully grab.

The more miles I put on her, the better it grabs. Next time I won't freak out so much until there is more than 8 miles on it. lol



I picked it up from the exhaust shop this morning. God damn it sounds good.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pByvoFxEkzw



I also got lucky on the starter too, I think...
I got fed up with the idea of no starter relay, as the A/T 4Runners are originally wired. So, I added one in line today, and it now starts every time, even when hot. Thank god, I was not looking forward to pulling that intake manifold again. Or, I just bought myself some time till the inevitable happens.


So far I've put 35 miles on her, just today. I love the sound, the new found power and finally having a manual transmission. This was the best thing I could have done, hands down.


If I feel motivated tomorrow I'll go get some more wiring done and see about getting the STI fuel pump installed. I'm still running a 3.0 V6 pump at the moment.

 

That is sweet sounding

 

Sounds great good job on the truck

 

thats very nice man. did you have a cat put in it. it looks like it.

 

They did an awsome job on the exhaust. It looks realy great.
Does your driveshaft is flipped or its mine? My slip is at the diff, not near the case.
Anyways, thumps up man.

 

@Shaggy, yeah I had them install a cat.



4.0, Thanks man!

I did a GIS and found the shafts installed both ways. I didnt pay attention when I pulled mine out. I just thought the splined end went towards the tcase. I could be wrong, but I wonder if it matters? I just thought to put that part higher.

 

Dunkin ur front driveshaft is in right. They came from factory with the double cardon joint at the t-case. The only way it would matter about wich way its in is if the u-joints have grease zerks in-between the caps because if they at and u put them where they are spinning backwards it can brake the u-joint. Because the hole in the joint weakens it so its ment to spin the direction that compresses the zerk when it spins the other way it pulls them apart. But if its a factory toy joint it should be on top of the joint. The rear shaft that was in my runner had a front yota joint and a spicer rear joint.