Dunkin's 1990 4Runner 2DR Build-Up Thread
#124
#127
I bet the A/C would have fit, if the engine was another inch higher. I think there is still hood clearance for it too.
I got down to the shop for an hour today. Did a final install on the fuel filter and sealed that leak on the radiator.
I also got a fan and controller ordered. The temp gauge got up to 3/4 on that trip around the block. I'm sure it will be fine on the freeway though.
This is what I ordered...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-119/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31149/
Here are some pics of the updated progress and the radiator install.


Fuel filter install and lines.

Yeah the lines came out a bit long, but I was a bit paranoid and couldn't find my hose stretcher,lol.
#128
That looks SO GOOD in that engine bay, man!
Far as what you said, ... "you're not a fab guy, etc.", .... what was the biggest PITA portion of it? Did you do the oil pan like RMA, etc.? I'll read back, just curious. They seem a lil high around here for those motors, compared to back east/midwest. But MAN, if I could find a "grampa wrecked it" with 100K or so, holy crapoli, I'd step up my search for a donor-4Runner! lol.
Far as what you said, ... "you're not a fab guy, etc.", .... what was the biggest PITA portion of it? Did you do the oil pan like RMA, etc.? I'll read back, just curious. They seem a lil high around here for those motors, compared to back east/midwest. But MAN, if I could find a "grampa wrecked it" with 100K or so, holy crapoli, I'd step up my search for a donor-4Runner! lol.
#129
Hey, is this a good deal? Or, would I be into a can of worms at 175K? lol.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...276451706.html
I also saw this, ..... No idea if it would work, ect., but sounds like fun! hahaha.....
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...280147642.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...276451706.html
I also saw this, ..... No idea if it would work, ect., but sounds like fun! hahaha.....
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...280147642.html
#130
That looks SO GOOD in that engine bay, man!
Far as what you said, ... "you're not a fab guy, etc.", .... what was the biggest PITA portion of it? Did you do the oil pan like RMA, etc.? I'll read back, just curious. They seem a lil high around here for those motors, compared to back east/midwest. But MAN, if I could find a "grampa wrecked it" with 100K or so, holy crapoli, I'd step up my search for a donor-4Runner! lol.
Far as what you said, ... "you're not a fab guy, etc.", .... what was the biggest PITA portion of it? Did you do the oil pan like RMA, etc.? I'll read back, just curious. They seem a lil high around here for those motors, compared to back east/midwest. But MAN, if I could find a "grampa wrecked it" with 100K or so, holy crapoli, I'd step up my search for a donor-4Runner! lol.
Now that I look back on it, nothing has really been too tough with this whole project. It has all come together really nicely. I have had a LOT of patience with it though.
If it weren't for the KS Racing set up, I'd have been screwed. That took a ton of guesswork out of the equation. Then it was just a matter of converting to a manual transmission. Had I started with a 5 m/t to begin with, half of my issues would have been solved.
The other issue was with mounting the engine. A bit of research led me to Gloveman on Lextreme. He works for The Car Tune Company in New Zealand. They made me the engine mounts, and now we see how the factory 22RE mounts hold up. They make them for the 3.0V6 chassis too. Although their mounts are a bit too low, as I found out. But the lift spacers worked out perfectly. I bet they could have built them differently had I asked.
The wiring has not been a challenge at all. I have only hooked up the tach, water temp, oil pressure and a few main powers and grounds, starter signal and tied the circuit opening relay to an ignition switched power to turn on the fuel pump. Hell, the battery cables are integral to the engine harness, along with the entire ECU harness.
I still have to wire up the check engine light, reverse lights, 4WD indicator and then fake out the rear O2 sensors since I am not installing them in the exhaust.
If you buy an LS400 engine, you already have the oil pan needed for the swap. But you do have to switch to an SC400 oil filter housing to clear the frame as it is shorter than the LS400.
Like RMA has said, get a 2nd gen V6 power steering pressure hose, its a real bolt up, other than losing the p/s pressure switch that increases idle speed. I wonder what the LS400 power steering pump looks like. I have seen in pictures that it has an integral reservoir, unlike the remote reservoir that I have with the SC.
I'm going to have my aluminum guy make me a lift spacer for the trans mount to crossmember, I don't like the way the E-Bay one fits. But I will keep it in case I go with dual cases. It would work that way.
I don't think I could have done any better with a complete car to start with. I would look for a complete engine, uncut wiring harness (complete if you can, with underhood fuse boxes.) ECU, and accessories. The rest you will have to make or buy.
Like the Tundra 2UZ fan idler bracket and pulley, Tundra exhaust manifolds, radiator, and steering stabilizer (the stock one wont fit, and I still have to buy one.)
If I was doing it over, I'd get a new starter, and I would have done the head gaskets too. But, I'll do them when I get into a 4.7 shortblock.

Sorry for the wall of text that is mostly common 1UZ swap info, but I thought I might answer some of your questions in one place.
PS -
I'd also like to thank Cebby, Smitherz, Twisty, Gloveman, RMA, Shaggy21, Yotatech, Lextreme, Supracharged and many many others for sharing their info for me to read about and put to work. This is my first 4x4, first Toyota and first swap of this magnitude. I couldn't have done it with out them.
Last edited by Dunkin; Mar 27, 2011 at 06:27 PM.
#132
I have only the Tundra manifolds on it at the moment. It is going down to an exhaust shop in Bellevue later this week to get the system built and installed.
Last edited by Dunkin; Mar 28, 2011 at 09:41 AM.
#133
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ok, it sounded wicked loud in your post. I was hoping that is what you were running, cause I was getting worried about mine sounding that loud. Ha Ha don't think the wife and kids would have been likin that.
Do you have a link for the guy with the engine mounts? I was looking at building my own at the moment. Also did you do any body lift? I think I already asked sorry, just trying to get everything nailed down.
I am going to pull the oil pan and see if I can notch the front of it with some light walled tube so it will fit the front relay rod for the steering so I don't have to run a body lift, that and with the 1" diff drop I have and lowering the front of the diff to match the rear that has been dropped, hopefully the motor just sits in there nicley.
Yours is looking so good, I am jealous and can't wait....
Do you have a link for the guy with the engine mounts? I was looking at building my own at the moment. Also did you do any body lift? I think I already asked sorry, just trying to get everything nailed down.
I am going to pull the oil pan and see if I can notch the front of it with some light walled tube so it will fit the front relay rod for the steering so I don't have to run a body lift, that and with the 1" diff drop I have and lowering the front of the diff to match the rear that has been dropped, hopefully the motor just sits in there nicley.
Yours is looking so good, I am jealous and can't wait....
#134
ok, it sounded wicked loud in your post. I was hoping that is what you were running, cause I was getting worried about mine sounding that loud. Ha Ha don't think the wife and kids would have been likin that.
Do you have a link for the guy with the engine mounts? I was looking at building my own at the moment. Also did you do any body lift? I think I already asked sorry, just trying to get everything nailed down.
I am going to pull the oil pan and see if I can notch the front of it with some light walled tube so it will fit the front relay rod for the steering so I don't have to run a body lift, that and with the 1" diff drop I have and lowering the front of the diff to match the rear that has been dropped, hopefully the motor just sits in there nicley.
Yours is looking so good, I am jealous and can't wait....
Do you have a link for the guy with the engine mounts? I was looking at building my own at the moment. Also did you do any body lift? I think I already asked sorry, just trying to get everything nailed down.
I am going to pull the oil pan and see if I can notch the front of it with some light walled tube so it will fit the front relay rod for the steering so I don't have to run a body lift, that and with the 1" diff drop I have and lowering the front of the diff to match the rear that has been dropped, hopefully the motor just sits in there nicley.
Yours is looking so good, I am jealous and can't wait....
I did install a 2" body lift and steering column spacer from Roger @ 4Crawler.
You might have an issue notching the oil pan, as I believe the sump sits right where the center steering link is. The diff clearance was not an issue on mine at all.
I got a hold of Gloverman my PM'ing him on Lextreme.
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/member.php?u=987
#135
A body lift will save some clearance issues. I have a 3in BL and im still using the SC400 oil pan. I got about 3/4" between the diff and the pan. That's enough. Also, i got more than 1" between the intake and the hood. Still, this is plenty.
But, having a LS oil pan, you can drop the engine more down there and have it leveled. Mine is tilted toward the fireway.
Some people told me that having an engine not leveled in a car can cause main bearings to use faster.
Pressing the clutch push the crank foward, releasing it the crank goes back where it was. This sounds stupid at first but thinking about it made me believe it.
But hey, Cheers on the swap man. Its not totaly finished but its only the tiny stuff left to do. Grats Brother !!
But, having a LS oil pan, you can drop the engine more down there and have it leveled. Mine is tilted toward the fireway.
Some people told me that having an engine not leveled in a car can cause main bearings to use faster.
Pressing the clutch push the crank foward, releasing it the crank goes back where it was. This sounds stupid at first but thinking about it made me believe it.
But hey, Cheers on the swap man. Its not totaly finished but its only the tiny stuff left to do. Grats Brother !!
Last edited by 4.0 Pickup; Mar 28, 2011 at 11:05 AM.
#136
A body lift will save some clearance issues. I have a 3in BL and im still using the SC400 oil pan. I got about 3/4" between the diff and the pan. That's enough. Also, i got more than 1" between the intake and the hood. Still, this is plenty.
But, having a LS oil pan, you can drop the engine more down there and have it leveled. Mine is tilted toward the fireway.
Some people told me that having an engine not leveled in a car can cause main bearings to use faster.
Pressing the clutch push the crank foward, releasing it the crank goes back where it was. This sounds stupid at first but thinking about it made me believe it.
But hey, Cheers on the swap man. Its not totaly finished but its only the tiny stuff left to do. Grats Brother !!
But, having a LS oil pan, you can drop the engine more down there and have it leveled. Mine is tilted toward the fireway.
Some people told me that having an engine not leveled in a car can cause main bearings to use faster.
Pressing the clutch push the crank foward, releasing it the crank goes back where it was. This sounds stupid at first but thinking about it made me believe it.
But hey, Cheers on the swap man. Its not totaly finished but its only the tiny stuff left to do. Grats Brother !!
Is crank walk an issue with these engines? I didn't really look at the main bearings or thrust bearing when I had the oil pan off. Now you have me thinking. Especially since they were never designed to have a manual transmission behind them...
#137
You have a welder right? Building an exhaust system isnt as hard as you would think. I did mine and its the first big thing i have ever welded.
#138
Nope, I don't have a welder. In fact, I haven't had to do any welding on this project yet.
I had a buddy of mine do the radiator, and my Uncle did the rock sliders for me.
#140
Me to!! My first welding experience is on my 1uz exhaust system. Im still impress from it. Ok I admit, I still have a few pin-holes but I can remedy that later or live with it.


