Dunkin's 1990 4Runner 2DR Build-Up Thread
#201
Yeah! Actually, I am looking for the forward center console and shift boots in blue. That would be awesome if you have them still.
#203
#204
I got to spend some time wiring today. I connected the blue and yellow wires at the position switch, so it thinks it's in neutral.
I also wired the reverse lights and 4WD light. I connected the check engine light, but it still does not come on. Not even a bulb check... I'll look into that later.
I also wired the reverse lights and 4WD light. I connected the check engine light, but it still does not come on. Not even a bulb check... I'll look into that later.
#207
So, wheel spin in the rain is getting annoying. Plus I want more traction off-road.
What are you guys using for diffs? I was thinking about ordering a Detroit Truetrac for my stock diff. Or should I source a V6 diff and put something in that?
#208
I am trying to find the front part of the center console as well. 410 wrecking didn't have any.
Funny story about the cat. Mine was cut out when I was at the super mall. It's coming along good for sure though!
#209
I'm at a loss...
I have been fighting this check engine light thing for a while now. I have been over the schematic over and over. The only wires not connected to Data Link Connector are for the fuel pump and the sub-o2.
We have used both a Snap-on Solus and a Modis to attempt to scan it with no success.
I have the L-Y wire at connector IK2, pin 9 connected to the Violet wire on the 4Runner harness at IH1, pin 4. There is continuity to the ECU, but when plugged in it does not ground, not even for a bulb check. I also grounded the Violet wire and made sure the cel bulb does work.
Is my ECU bad? Or am I missing a ground on the ECU that the schematic doesn't show?
RMA... Halp!!!!!1!
I have been fighting this check engine light thing for a while now. I have been over the schematic over and over. The only wires not connected to Data Link Connector are for the fuel pump and the sub-o2.
We have used both a Snap-on Solus and a Modis to attempt to scan it with no success.
I have the L-Y wire at connector IK2, pin 9 connected to the Violet wire on the 4Runner harness at IH1, pin 4. There is continuity to the ECU, but when plugged in it does not ground, not even for a bulb check. I also grounded the Violet wire and made sure the cel bulb does work.
Is my ECU bad? Or am I missing a ground on the ECU that the schematic doesn't show?
RMA... Halp!!!!!1!
Last edited by Dunkin; Apr 29, 2011 at 06:22 PM.
#210
how did you wire the MIL. and your engine wasnt obd2 right. if so the modis and solus wont talk to it. they say it will but i have a solus my self and i have tried and it wont talk to a obd1 car.
Last edited by SHAGGY21; Apr 29, 2011 at 06:29 PM.
#211
Good to know that it might be just a scan tool issue, but I still don't understand why the light won't work. I can't even get flash codes out of it.
#212
sorry i just looked at my diagrams and fiigured out how you wired it. my mil is pin 3 in IH1 in both my 3vz and 22re diagrams. but my strff is for a 95. the bulb is good right. i have had a fue go out when i have takeing clusters out.
#213
Oh, and yeah it's OBD1.
#214
theres another wire that grounds it in the harness i found it when trying to make sure the thing still worked in my cluster. well nevermind its the power wire. it should work looking at the diagram. so the b-r is not hooked up to b+ on the check connector
#215
looks like you have the right wires connected .. it is violet but at pin #3 not 4
try checking that your connection is good from IH1 #3 to C14 #9.
Then
at the lexus T6 (TDCL) connector put a meter from W(T6#8 L-Y) to E1 (T6#3 brown)
or at the ecu E9#6 for W and E10#69 for E1
you should have 12 volts at idle and 0-2 volts with the ignition switch on..
if it doesnt check out check grounds if not try another ecu ..
good luck bro.
try checking that your connection is good from IH1 #3 to C14 #9.
Then
at the lexus T6 (TDCL) connector put a meter from W(T6#8 L-Y) to E1 (T6#3 brown)
or at the ecu E9#6 for W and E10#69 for E1
you should have 12 volts at idle and 0-2 volts with the ignition switch on..
if it doesnt check out check grounds if not try another ecu ..
good luck bro.
Last edited by RMA; Apr 29, 2011 at 07:45 PM.
#216
Thanks for the reply! I'll get them checked tomorrow morning.
On a side note, I drove it from Kirkland to Lake Chelan tonight, going over Stevens Pass on Hwy 2. I used 7.5 gallons and drove 157 miles averaging about 50 mph. By my math, that's 20.9 MPG. Not bad at all...
On a side note, I drove it from Kirkland to Lake Chelan tonight, going over Stevens Pass on Hwy 2. I used 7.5 gallons and drove 157 miles averaging about 50 mph. By my math, that's 20.9 MPG. Not bad at all...
Last edited by Dunkin; Apr 30, 2011 at 12:49 AM.
#219
That must be the problem then. I don't have a TDCL connector and none of those wires are connected. I was using the underhood connector on the engine, which is part of the engine harness and connected properly.
Crap, where am I gonna get that. I didn't get the interior wiring with my engine...
You got an extra one? Lol
Crap, where am I gonna get that. I didn't get the interior wiring with my engine...
You got an extra one? Lol
#220
Here's another bummer...

I drove to the top of Chelan Butte, actually sitting here right now.
RMA, you were right again... This radiator is too small, or I need a hood scoop to vent more air from the engine bay. Any time I try to climb a grade at low speeds the engine gets hot. I had to stop and let it cool 5 times to climb 1500 ft. :mad:

I drove to the top of Chelan Butte, actually sitting here right now.
RMA, you were right again... This radiator is too small, or I need a hood scoop to vent more air from the engine bay. Any time I try to climb a grade at low speeds the engine gets hot. I had to stop and let it cool 5 times to climb 1500 ft. :mad:


