much progress today

last time shes on the stand for a very long time



lining up the trans an engine she must like me as it nearly slipped together kris said "this is the very first time i have ever done a trans to engine connection an not cussed ONCE"


all bolted in trans torqued motor mounts tight shes IN



where we had to stop my feet aching legs hurting kris tryin to put a gasket on upside down... so alt in exhaust manifold in power steering pump hooked up not bolted to the down pipe YET new fuel filter new oil sender for the gauge filter came with new banjo washers YAY





got cold too wind chill i was seriously shivvering bolts are cold lol

whew shes IN clutch works Kris tested it just incase lol

 

done :-D

 

One of my friends had a blue caddy like you showed. Think it was a 72 and not alot changed. That was a boat of a car and had alot of good times with it. He sold so maybe it has a happier ending then your moms did.

Your runner is coming along ways of where it was at and you have done a great job on it. You have done a great job on getting the front end straightened out. It is a nice feeling to bring a runner back from the grave. You have done excellent.

I have found one tranny bolt and know I have some more laying around. I should be able to get out in the shop tomorrow and will know more then.

 

thank you terry Kris this very early AM decided to go into twinfalls an bought a bolt he wants to hear it run hugely too so now dont need the trans bolt

an my first video ever will be at the end of the post!

ok we got the lower intake in started getting things lined up to put on it an such (please note we forgot ONE little thing in the following steps an caught it as we put in coolant that darn under the lower intake water pipe that goes right up into the thing with an O-ring seal AGH)


running wiring that took the longest where'd that one go OH ok an um err ok that one there LOL REMEMBER i didnt take this apart at this stage the PO did we spent a lot of time looking for bolts an finding where things fit



next some improvements GROUNDS ... kris went a little overboard on the size he made in my opinion but!



the FLUX CAPACITOR shhh no one tell....


upper intake torquing down
OMG the vacuum lines an stuff we were all HOW the bleep does that fit..oh ok i see LOL


throttle cable goin on all the things tightened ... cept that water pipe ooops.....



her first new life blood! poured in! coolant being mixed!


an the video! initial attempt no fuel an minor banjo leak also cranking no oil pressure so Kris got his backup mechanical just to make sure an it has pressure so either the gauge is bad , sender (new) is bad, the wiring may be an issue

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

still much to do new exhaust (eventually) get the O2 sensor IN the pipe so the ECU can actually do its job tune it time it air filter, power steering new belts, AC compressor

i know the tach works, water temp, alt is charging gauge shows it just the oil press dang!
also got the 4x4 bulb in backwards it didnt light (LED)

gah im tired... flops over backwards wile eating dinner texting mark an doing this post

 

Wow Mr Dragon. I admire your work. I wish I could do this kind of stuff. Its funby how paibt makes something look much better huh lol. Your engine looks sick! Good job man!

 

thank ya redeth its not that hard to paint things its rebuilding an engine on a broken shoe string budget!

 

Haha, great to see! On her own power, maw, her own power! Hehe. .. Seriously psych'd for ya buddy!

 

oh i am too just tired now thank you oh toyota spirits

 

Sounds smooth and responsive, did u have to adjust tps or not have to mess with it??

Good work!!

Glad your oil pressure wasnt a big deal...I had a bad situation with my 88 truck 22re i rebuilt and when i got it back from the machine shop it was missing a allen plug that goes in the oil gallery by the main caps. Of course i overlooked it and had no oil pressure,had to take the engine back out and investigate.

 

i cleaned the TPS an lubed the shaft an had a screw break off had to drill it out an retap to a different screw thread but other thanthat nothing else with the tps

shes not tuned yet we just cranked her over vroom once gas got to the injectors valves need adjustment once warmed up timing set heck just to make sure its running right we still need to get the O2 sensor IN the exhaust its under the drivers seat hooked up to the harness

well its not a mechanical issue with the oil pressure its making a lot (60 at idle whew) but nothings getting to the gauge so sender-wires-gauge somethings not right in that area

 

found this tidbit deep in an old thread posted up by hadmatt54

Here's how Toyota says to test it!

Disconnect the lead from the sender. Run a 12v. lead from the pos. post of your battery. Connect a 3.4 watt 12v. bulb in series with this lead then connect the other side of the bulb to the sender. (Toyota cluster bulbs are typically 11W. and 27W. so you will have to source a 3.4w. bulb elsewhere). Check that the bulb does not light with the engine stopped and flashes with the engine running. The number of flashes should vary with engine speed. If operation is not correct replace the sender.

this is usually the wattage an volts of your standard test light

To check the gauge in the dash, you need an analog dc voltmeter, you remove the lead off of the sender and connect the pos. lead of the voltmeter to it. Then you take the neg. lead of the voltmeter to ground. Turn the ignition switch to the on position and the voltmeter needle should vibrate around the 4.5 volt position. The resistance of the gauge in the dash is approx. 44 ohms.

This of course assumes that your wiring from the sender to the gauge is intact, which if you are having oil pressure problems might not be!

I've never had to replace an oil sender, but I've had the wire from the oil pressure sender break on two of my Toyotas and this may be your problem. It breaks about 6 inches up in the harness from the sender on the 22re's, I can't speak on the 3.0's or the 3.4's, but it's worth a check.

This must be a problem with Toyotas, because when I did my 5m-ge conversion in my pickup, there was a piece of plastic supporting the sender wire from the sender up about 8-10 inches in the 5M-ge harness. Easiest way to check this is take the connector off of the back of your cluster and check continuity (ohmmeter with a reading of little or no resistance)from there to the sender.

I don't know what your truck is but my 86 and 89 runners used a Yellow/black wire and you should find it in the connector closest to the oil gauge in your dash, if you are not sure just follow the ground tracer in the printed circuit from the gauge back to the connector.

 

You lost me at "disconnect".....hehehehe, jk, jk. GREAT write up!

I have had 3 clusters in and in each one the coolant temp is not "right" so to speak, lol. This sparked my interest, but I think I just keep getting bad temp gauges and also my old tore up sending unit in the intake! Lol. I'm gonna unplug it and see what I it does (mine usually stays at 1/3 all the time)...

Thanks for sharing bud!

 

WHOOOAHH mark! these tests are for the ** OIL ** sender an gauge!

heres for the ecs sensor with chart from the FSM
http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?...40engineco.pdf

i havent found anything on the gauge sender yet

 

Nice work man. It really sounds great and Im loving the red on the block.

I cant tell you how many times I forget to put that o-ring on the water pipe for the lower intake. Usually dont realize it until its leaking. haha

Thats a really great VC sticker. Where did you get it if you dont mind me asking.

 

guy who has a vinyl cutter got new software an asked for volunteer's to test it said make it interesting i told him about the "skellrunner" comment my daughter made an i wanted the 22re in a bone font he made me 2 for a couple bucks after lookin at it now i shoulda went with a chrome finish on the red if you go back a couple pages you'll see a post about one of the 3 vinyl cutting people ive used all are great on price in these hard times

we had the Oring on it! just flat forgot the bolts...

 

New o ring? Mine was in good shape but within 30 min of oper temp ,......pfffsshhhhwishhh....grrr! Lol. .. New OEM seal and voila! Not a drop..... till the pipe went bad! , grrrr! Hehe. ...

Also, I ditched the bolts and went with the replacement studs for the water pump fan pulley (extras I had/Red Loctite in the intake side) and made it so much easier to get the pipe on with new oring and just start the lock nuts used on the fan pulley. ... Liked that mod, as it allowed me to pull the pipe, later, which was leaking through the bead, without pulling the intake. Just had to pull the access panel, the fuel pump bolts and slide that pipe out and new one in. (Lil bit of a pain on the head block plate bolt/pipe retaining ring flange, but was Better than pulling the intake again! Lol. )

Hope ur getting some much needed and welldeserved rest!

 

nope like nearly EVERY seal on my engine that Oring was dried out an cracking due to salt still need to replace the distributor cap oring seal it didnt come with the kits i got it crumbled to dust!

 

Great work!!

Wait, there's an o-ring where that lower pipe meets the intake??? Damn! I just used FIPG there....hope it holds :/

Question for you - for the cold start injector, the fuel line mates up with 2 copper crush washers and a bolt with a hole through it - is there a special technique to align the bolt and its hole to be in line with the fuel line? Or a certain torque setting to use? Or both?

Were you able to access the o-ring/pipe area to replace the o-ring without removing too much to get back in there again? That was a doozy to get lined up (the wrap around pipe), if I recall...

 

Phil, I hate to share my thoughts,.....but I would just go get the o-ring from yota. That is a crush seal and while a couple have fipg'd it and had no prob,....most that I've know have not. (Best chance on that is to lather it on and let it set up til firm and then secure it/ it doesnt need anything but the o-ring, ya know? Not saying not to start it up and try,....but if I was doing a break in, I would DREAD having to kill it and start over after fixing that. I have the OEM part # if u need it.

U MIGHT be able to pull the bolts and then pull it down enuf to clean it and slap on the o-ring,......the cleaning would be the hardest part/plus its gotta clear that portion of the intake. If u loosen the fuel pump bolts, side of block eye-flange bolt out and head block plate bolt it should give u a lil more play, and ur a lean guy, right?....this will help in doing it from the fuel pump access panel. YOU CAN DO IT without removing the intake again!

 

I'm a moron:



I didn't look closely at the bolt to realize that it has a hollow center and it doesn't matter what alignment the bolt has. It's 25 ft/lbs to tighten BTW I found out in my research

Still curious on that o ring