the dragons 88 runner buildup/rebuild
Apr 16, 2013 | 09:18 AM
#581
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Phil, I hate to share my thoughts,.....but I would just go get the o-ring from yota. That is a crush seal and while a couple have fipg'd it and had no prob,....most that I've know have not. (Best chance on that is to lather it on and let it set up til firm and then secure it/ it doesnt need anything but the o-ring, ya know? Not saying not to start it up and try,....but if I was doing a break in, I would DREAD having to kill it and start over after fixing that. I have the OEM part # if u need it.
U MIGHT be able to pull the bolts and then pull it down enuf to clean it and slap on the o-ring,......the cleaning would be the hardest part/plus its gotta clear that portion of the intake. If u loosen the fuel pump bolts, side of block eye-flange bolt out and head block plate bolt it should give u a lil more play, and ur a lean guy, right?....this will help in doing it from the fuel pump access panel.
YOU CAN DO IT without removing the intake again!
U MIGHT be able to pull the bolts and then pull it down enuf to clean it and slap on the o-ring,......the cleaning would be the hardest part/plus its gotta clear that portion of the intake. If u loosen the fuel pump bolts, side of block eye-flange bolt out and head block plate bolt it should give u a lil more play, and ur a lean guy, right?....this will help in doing it from the fuel pump access panel.
YOU CAN DO IT without removing the intake again!lean...hmmmmm....225 lbs and huge hands....this will be fun....
Apr 16, 2013 | 09:26 AM
#582
Dang thing!>>>>
Can't find the pic of the part#.... but if u cant I can find it in my receipts? That is if u want to do it at all.... Not telllin ya what to do, promise! Hehehe
Can't find the pic of the part#.... but if u cant I can find it in my receipts? That is if u want to do it at all.... Not telllin ya what to do, promise! Hehehe
Apr 16, 2013 | 11:44 AM
#584
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From: Idaho
phil we used a slightly thicker Oring than the original crush seal which in my case was crumbling the kit we got was from Barbour freight
the aluminum of the head has a recess in it with the tube of the pipe in counter support the Oring is getting a good seal in there we just flat forgot it as we were going up away from it
it can be accessed from underneath via the passenger fenderwell and the access panel its not easy but pull the oil filter an that should give enough clearance to clean yours off an slip the Oring on we didnt use any sealant on it
the bolts are called Banjo bolts just FYI
the aluminum of the head has a recess in it with the tube of the pipe in counter support the Oring is getting a good seal in there we just flat forgot it as we were going up away from it
it can be accessed from underneath via the passenger fenderwell and the access panel its not easy but pull the oil filter an that should give enough clearance to clean yours off an slip the Oring on we didnt use any sealant on it
the bolts are called Banjo bolts just FYI
Apr 16, 2013 | 01:15 PM
#586
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Thanks - I'll be removing the oil filter during my break in of the cam anyway so maybe I'll give it a shot then.
So, the o ring you used went around that 1/4" tall piece of pipe sticking up from the flange in that photo Mark posted today? It is basically the same size as the small "lip" you see in the photo - the circular part that *just* sticks above the flange, at the base of the 1/4" of pipe that sticks up?
(praying that FIPG does the trick)
So, the o ring you used went around that 1/4" tall piece of pipe sticking up from the flange in that photo Mark posted today? It is basically the same size as the small "lip" you see in the photo - the circular part that *just* sticks above the flange, at the base of the 1/4" of pipe that sticks up?
(praying that FIPG does the trick)
Apr 16, 2013 | 02:07 PM
#587
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From: Idaho
Thanks - I'll be removing the oil filter during my break in of the cam anyway so maybe I'll give it a shot then.
So, the o ring you used went around that 1/4" tall piece of pipe sticking up from the flange in that photo Mark posted today? It is basically the same size as the small "lip" you see in the photo - the circular part that *just* sticks above the flange, at the base of the 1/4" of pipe that sticks up?
(praying that FIPG does the trick)
So, the o ring you used went around that 1/4" tall piece of pipe sticking up from the flange in that photo Mark posted today? It is basically the same size as the small "lip" you see in the photo - the circular part that *just* sticks above the flange, at the base of the 1/4" of pipe that sticks up?
(praying that FIPG does the trick)
the head has a recess in it to help give the seal/Oring a crush area for a seal
Apr 16, 2013 | 04:15 PM
#589
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From: Idaho
Apr 17, 2013 | 02:01 AM
#590
Congrats on getting your motor running. It sounds great and is always a something to smile about. Having to chase down things from someone elses work can make it alot slower when you arent the one that tore it down. Great job again.
^^^I use a new oring and just for good measure I do put a little sealant on as well. Once the motor is in the truck, it is nearly impossible to get to. I have had one to leak before and your vocabulary expands rapidly when having to get back to that pipe for a leak.
^^^I use a new oring and just for good measure I do put a little sealant on as well. Once the motor is in the truck, it is nearly impossible to get to. I have had one to leak before and your vocabulary expands rapidly when having to get back to that pipe for a leak.
Last edited by Terrys87; Apr 17, 2013 at 03:11 AM.
Apr 17, 2013 | 11:42 AM
#591
Congrats on getting your motor running. It sounds great and is always a something to smile about. Having to chase down things from someone elses work can make it alot slower when you arent the one that tore it down. Great job again.
^^^I use a new oring and just for good measure I do put a little sealant on as well. Once the motor is in the truck, it is nearly impossible to get to. I have had one to leak before and your vocabulary expands rapidly when having to get back to that pipe for a leak.
^^^I use a new oring and just for good measure I do put a little sealant on as well. Once the motor is in the truck, it is nearly impossible to get to. I have had one to leak before and your vocabulary expands rapidly when having to get back to that pipe for a leak.
Hopefully he doesn't have any issue! Id hate that for him, it is a bit if a pita!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Apr 17, 2013 at 11:44 AM.
Apr 17, 2013 | 11:55 AM
#592
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
You guys are killing me and this isn't even my build thread!
I need to track down that o ring. Or if someone knows the size I could probably get it at the local HW store - I was shopping for some bolts for my battery tray swap and saw a drawer of o rings for $0.50 each....figure that's way cheaper than the stealer, and I don't want to go back there after last week's 4X overcharge fiasco....
Anyone know if "hardware store" quality o rings are temperature resistant enough to use in this scenario? Anyone know the size (pipe OD and thickness of o ring)?
I need to track down that o ring. Or if someone knows the size I could probably get it at the local HW store - I was shopping for some bolts for my battery tray swap and saw a drawer of o rings for $0.50 each....figure that's way cheaper than the stealer, and I don't want to go back there after last week's 4X overcharge fiasco....
Anyone know if "hardware store" quality o rings are temperature resistant enough to use in this scenario? Anyone know the size (pipe OD and thickness of o ring)?
Apr 17, 2013 | 12:15 PM
#593
Hey Phil, sorry bud, lol. I thought about that after posting, then heard the alert and KNEW it would be this message.
I have been really overwhelmed with my moms health and work, but i now have the stack of dealer receipts, I'm looking.. and I'm just feeling it's the best way to go. Mine took 25 years to fail and would not have at all had I not took it off to clean the pipe. I'm sure though that a replacement meant for high temp and coolant chemicals based stuff would work. Not sure which that is but I'm sure dragon could tell ya.
I have been really overwhelmed with my moms health and work, but i now have the stack of dealer receipts, I'm looking.. and I'm just feeling it's the best way to go. Mine took 25 years to fail and would not have at all had I not took it off to clean the pipe. I'm sure though that a replacement meant for high temp and coolant chemicals based stuff would work. Not sure which that is but I'm sure dragon could tell ya.
Apr 17, 2013 | 12:18 PM
#594
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Hey Mark, sorry about your mom's health - I haven't been following your thread as much as I've wanted to lately but will try to going forward. Appreciate all the support on my build, of course!
I just got off the phone with the dealer and ordered it. $4.00. Robbery? Yes. Peace of mind? Absolutely. He said no need for FIPG - just clean and put o ring in.
I just got off the phone with the dealer and ordered it. $4.00. Robbery? Yes. Peace of mind? Absolutely. He said no need for FIPG - just clean and put o ring in.
Apr 17, 2013 | 12:27 PM
#595
Im gonna text all the "oring" numbers and I'm sure the dealer can tell u where they come from. Doesnt say on the receipt.....
96711-24017 - ring, o - 6.24 $
90099-14090 - ring, o - 6.87 $
96711-19013 - ring, o - 5.40 $
I think these here are OEM DENSO A/C R12 O RINGS:
90099-14044 - O-ring - .96 $
90099-14046 - O-ring - .96 $
90099-14045 - O-ring - .96 $
Sorry, s' all I got......
96711-24017 - ring, o - 6.24 $
90099-14090 - ring, o - 6.87 $
96711-19013 - ring, o - 5.40 $
I think these here are OEM DENSO A/C R12 O RINGS:
90099-14044 - O-ring - .96 $
90099-14046 - O-ring - .96 $
90099-14045 - O-ring - .96 $
Sorry, s' all I got......
Apr 17, 2013 | 06:27 PM
#597
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From: Idaho
got dragged out to do a bit more on the runner my right foot dont like me an i dont like it
we checked the sender its pulsing so sender is ok either the gauge or wiring now i hope its just loose or something in the dash
got the junky exhaust attached to the header did a bit of tuning an still need to set the valve lash still need to get the O2 in the pipe too she came up to temp an wow the heater works good LOL missing a speed on my blower fan gah another piece to replace
likely gona get the power steering filled an bled then brakes would like to see her move SAFELY lol
[YOUTUBE]
[/YOUTUBE]
we checked the sender its pulsing so sender is ok either the gauge or wiring now i hope its just loose or something in the dash
got the junky exhaust attached to the header did a bit of tuning an still need to set the valve lash still need to get the O2 in the pipe too she came up to temp an wow the heater works good LOL missing a speed on my blower fan gah another piece to replace
likely gona get the power steering filled an bled then brakes would like to see her move SAFELY lol
[YOUTUBE]
Apr 18, 2013 | 06:25 PM
#599
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From: Idaho
kris made a O2 bung as the one left on the bit of pipe cut off was just far too gone used a couple studs from the extra parts box an nuts shes got an O2 sensor now (is that good? LOL)
i got the heat shield cleaned up an hit with some high temp stove paint its not cooking off the exhaust so were doing well
i dug into the dash a bit to get some of the LED's 180 turn fixed now! i have 4wd, check engine, an rear door also found the connector an wire so i can check for continuity to the oil gauge
3/12 (connector/pin out) yellow an black wire apparently the same wire for gauge or switch (as expected) as i said over on terrys thread i havent see having to move that pin for the oil guage am i wrong?
just adjusting the tach if it came from a v6
