The way I understand it and I could be wrong that your harness has to have it built into it. I could be wrong, but seemed like I read it somewhere. I had to replace my entire harness and seems like I couldnt find a couple of plugs to it so I just completely removed it.

I mentioned on Marks thread that was something else I am going to start grabbing from the boneyards is light bulbs. When I got my runner legal, just the bulbs alone added up.

Meguiars is some good stuff. I used the Turtle Wax lense restorer and it did great. It is surprising at how bad some get but with a little effort it can make a big difference. With some of the things getting hard to find for these, it is out of desperation that most of us have been able to come up with some cheap but great fixes.

 

cyberhorn Im just trying to catch up on a few threads looks like your getting tons done great work.

 

thank ya terry yeah i dont think mines gona have cruise but thats okay ive driven years without it did ohio to calif in 2 days in the 79 oh that was a mess front seal on the trany popped (too cold in nebraska) an was leaking gear oil on the clutch the rest of the way nothing like laying on frozen concrete squezing thick gear oil into the trany *shivers*

hey jason!! it looks like tons but their small steps with LOOTS of photos LOL

 

yay my engine is here! WOOT i put it right in! isnt she a beaut! lightweight easy on gas an look at that fit! oh wait reads destructions.. must add iron an aluminum for full operation.... sigh....

 

Yeah, was pretty crazy, dragon! lol.... They looked like they'd done it before... Saved them from having to buy an axle they didn't need... But for 8$? SORRY, i'm buying the axle too! hahaha...THEN i'll hit my machinist buddy and let him do it in 3 minutes for both! lol. Another guy said, "Hey, just use my huge vice and keep dropping it down on there(wood blocks to protect the backing plate stuffs) and eventually it pounds out(with the axle facing downward... Just lifting up a couple feet and dropping... The weight of itself knocks the axle right out the back)"

And, heard that you can put a puller type deal on the lugs and then screw in this rod into the axle end and push it out the other side"... But I doubt that's a tool most people have in there toolbox, right? hahaha. Something like a Steering wheel puller or something?

Anyway, I clearly wouldn't wanna try it in the yard... i'd just take the whole thing. CHEAP for the axles... it's the diffs they get you on!

GREAT WORK, buddy! Always impressed and motivated when stopping in here. YOU GUYS ROCK WITH THIS RESTO ACTION!

Why did you remove the Cruise? I LOVE having Cruise again!

 

Dude, that "Engine in a Box" is SICK! I need to do that mod.... Was gonna go 1UZ or 3RZ eventually, but this is FAR easier... THANKS!

 

I KNOW isnt it an its eco friendly TOO think of all the carboard engines an the recycling that'd happen from them

as for the cruise control it was disconnected i have no idea if it works the control box was dangling down on the peddles and the hand control was tween my feet the steering collum cover has a hole in it (covered by duct tape) that will have to be fixed eventually

 

well the runner has steering again i FINALLY got the splined shaft back into the U joint at the firewall talk about yer PITA had to use a chisil to spread open the clamp so i could pound the splined shaft back in GAH oh no i didnt pull you from that joint an clean you of the accumulated rust

ok for future reference the newer steering box is a better fit physically the shaft from the steering wheel is nearly a straight shot to the box its a half inch taller off the frame thus the Ujoint doesnt have to work so hard
""BUT""
heres the two alterations to things to make it work
1. drill out the nylon pins (toothpick sized) in the steering shaft these are for a major accident they shear an let the shaft shorten instead of shoving the steering wheel into your gut as the newer box is got the longer nose on her you need to shorten the shaft a bit OR get the newer steering shaft from the junk yard

2. add a small strip of metal to the bracket that holds the steering universal joint cover adding 1/2 an inch to it again to put the cover where it needs to be i'll take a picture of the bracket an shaft in a bit

 

Congratz.... now steer it on down here and lets take a day trail run! lol.

 

lol i gotsta put my zuk springs in first!

i just ordered my freeze plugs offa ebay

 

Ahhh, ok then... You getta pass! lol.

JK, ... wow, FPlugs... NOT my favorite part of the build... BUT, they aren't REALLY trouble.. just hate how they wanna go cockeyed! lol.

BTW, I am SO FREAKING LOST, man... hahaha.... I know, what's new, right? :hillbilly: .... No, but really, I've read around 30 different threads and comments on 'how to wire the back window switch and dome light'... and it's like I lost everything I was JUST STARTING to learn! WTH is happening to me? (DON'T SAY 'getting old'..... it's not just that! lol).

Wanna just install the second deck lamp, wire all 3 together but still having 'on/off' individualy.... Maybe set up the back dome and decks to go on with the doors opening... OR, just when the back door is unlocked(even though that feature will be disabled in order to wire a constant hot switch to the back window, RIGHT? hahahahha. DANG!

 

Honestly at this point you'd be wise to junk all of the drum brakes in favor a disc setup. Theres so many options available now compared to even 5 years ago.

 

runners looking good man u keep it up and youl have a new truck keep up the good work

 

Hey Dragon, ...

Just letting you know, I'm getting close to getting it all down in the cranium(the rear lights and window safety switch thing, etc.... Wanna check with ya tomorrow.. BUT, for now, thanks, BIG TIME, for throwing in a bunch of input here and there! (oh yeah, for making me laugh, as well, ya know? hahaha)

 

My factory cruise control was the little push buttons on the left hand side of the dash if I rememeber the correct location of it. I can get a picture of it later if need be. As far as I know it was factory, but seems like I have seen the same set up in other trucks.

The Steering shaft can be a pain in the rear at times. I started soaking it a few days before I work on it and still usually have to tap on it. I disconnect it at the gear box and am able to tip it up far enough to get it to collapse in the center.

You are making progress. It does take a whole lot of little steps before the big ones happen. Keep plugging away and you will get there.

 

thank ya terry yeah one piece ata time an ow its cost me more than a dime lol seriously she came to me in rebuildable shape an that is my goal with a few mods along the way to make it better

chef, dude im watching your thread for that answer on what where an how to hookup the rear light is one of my want to do upgrades your doing some serious sherloch holmes investigating i like the video of the light now if the kid had added the wiring diagram THEN it'd been excellent

black toy, as an old friend of mine used to say yep now drive it under a new radiator cap an ya got a new truck LOL thanks for taking a look

drew, i know i even considered it an its on my list of possible future upgrades right now though limited budget im doing what i can ive got backing plates paid for just waiting on Tallt down in Florida to pull&ship them

 

ADDED only wiring diagram I saw... Sorry, it's been a lil all over the place, I apologize... But I'm TOTALLY learning as I go, starting.... well, from NOTHING! lol. Never pulled the fuse block in the kick panel before, never spliced into factory wiring really... Just a lil skeered, but AM going to do it. Also added the info on the Rear Window Switch method he took....... I LIKE IT!

Maybe you could help out on what I've posted/asked, in regards to "add pins" thingy's and such?

GREAT WORK HERE, DRAGON... keep it up!

 

well kris stopped by a couple of the local parts stores apparently several dont sell the bulbs (#74 an #196) any more they sell the them with the dash sockets permanently attached at 3.95 each the SR5 cluster i got has a few of those in it my old cluster has the replaceable #196'rs so i took a couple from it to fill in the missing larger lights for the cluster an got some T5 LED versions of the #74's for the few warning lights on the cluster (batt,brake,check engine,seatbelt 4wheel drive ect) offa ebay

knowing my luck the charge light will need a bulb or added resistance or it'll stay on ive seen a few reported cases of this

 

That will add cost up quick having to buy them with the socket already on. That is going to be my new thing of grabbing bulbs out of the boneyard. When I had to get my runner legal, I spent $16 just on bulbs. For that price, I will take the chance of them lasting or having to replace them.

 

Just letting you know I was here lol.