Cyberhorn The Dragon

your too kind terry i didnt do anything with it yesterday i vacuumed the house leg is all stiff from lack of use then doing actual work lol

did find a place to get replacement core support metal as the drivers after me pulling/pushing the inner fender straight is gona be a mess an the passenger is rusted out autobodypartsonline $13 for the pass upper $15 $14 drivers side have to give um a call monday

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If you can get a spot weld cutter. It goes into a drill. I got mine at Harbor Freight and it is so worth the money. I knocked out 3 spot welds in less then 5 minutes today. Wanted to see how well it worked. Very impressed with it. I used drill bits to replace my core support and went thru several and had to keep sharpening them. I dont know how long this spot weld cutter will last but seems it wasnt that expensive.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well its harbor freight so price is usually pretty darn good

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well i got out there today, removed the hood hinge an got a bottle jack some wood blocks a big dead blow hammer an went to fixing the inner fender also pulled the bumper for better access,

still has a few spots of wrinkle but im not done yet the front radiator support was pressing on the power steering line at the box after all of the work it now is over an inch away from it

had to unbolt the corner body mount which the frame part is bent that is gona take a lot of pulling the front core support looks a LOT better the inner fender as well a lot straighter than it was

ran out of light dinner was ready an my arm was runnin outa steam LOL ill get a picture of the progress tomorrow

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

A guy I know has a truck and his son wrecked it and used my 86 Runner for parts for the front end. He bolted his on and has been that way for 5 years and it is still looking good. I used a core support off of a rusted runner that I parted out and it is rusted out in some places as well. Since I am stripping this 84 truck, I pulled the whole core support on it and will be putting it on my runner in the near future.

The core support on my blue one will be getting replaced with the 84 and I will be scrapping the rusted support out. If you look at the 86 build, you will see what is rusted out. Seems like it is the drivers lower side. If there is a piece on it that isnt rusted out that you need, let me know and I can cut off the piece you need and send it to you. You can have it and wouldnt think shipping would be too much. It could be 2 more weeks til I get it back from my dads house though. I have the next 2 days off and if all works out as planned, I might actually get it home on my days off, but that is if all goes well.

I bolted my front end on and when I get this new support on it, I have no intentions of welding it back up. Bolts will work just fine for me and it makes pulling the drive train so much easier. It could be a problem when I get the air conditioner working on and had to pull the drivetrain in it but other than that I not worried about it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, great work/build/rig.... and IT'S RED hahaha...

Looking forward to your progress,................... and CONGRATZ on the wound drain removal! MAN I hated having those and the chest drain tube for days after my accident! I have so much sympathy for you, CD! Incredible ordeal you've been through!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

wow thank you terry! mine on the drivers side is a wrinkled mess but isnt rusted its the passenger side that is due to the battery acid an terry you almost need a program to tell which core support is playin which truck! LOL! ill take some good pictures tomorrow

chef: thank you, yeah the home care nurse set me free on monday left a stack of large thick pad bandages for it the hole was less than the end of a pencil eraser no red tissues visible in the hole so it was like a nip missing from the foot so i put a sock in the end of my shoe as a filler (the right shoe has far less wear on it than the left LOL) feel like i need an alignment

enjoyed the heck outa working on the truck an yep its red gona stay red too but i might add some black to hide my rust repairs to come an give her a bit of change from all red sides

Cyberhorn The Dragon

oh an bout half an hour ago i went out grabbed the valve cover an hosed it down with degreaser stuffed it into a couple plastic bags to soak.. is very clean even inside.. i am wondering now about that engine no big ridge line at the top of the cylenders pistons are snug in them no slop no rust at all in the coolant jackets of the block

i really do need to look over that folder of papers came with her an find out is this a nearly new engine?? that just had a head gasket go Phift! i know the inside of the valve cover is cleaner than the outside!

the timing cover is asian an looks in excellent shape needs a file taken to a few spots where the timing chain nicked the aluminum when the PO was dissembling it

Cyberhorn The Dragon

heres the improvements fender line much straighter



still some wrinkles that need to be taken out to get the nose where it belongs



an the passenger side the rust is coming through from the other side darn battery acid eating through i dont know terry you think just some patch metal or fiberglass after aggressive rust removal would be best?

Cyberhorn The Dragon

another view you can see the bent body mount an how the core is bent below the headlight area anyone got a picture of the bumper /fender mount so i can see how its supposed to look, nother wrinkle just in front of that bracket i need to get out



and an overall view the drivers corner is much higher an more level now YAY! lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Buddy.... The HG going is the key to this equation.... NOT because it leads to an obvious "LIST OF THINGS TO DO", alone... Rather, also, because it can and DOES, ALWAYS lead to water and coolant settling in the main and rod bearings..... Rust developing in there, at all, is not a favorable thing.

One thing I did that's worked for 6K now since my blown HG is that I immediately tore it down... Then I slapped the new HG in, cleaned all the milk shake I could out, then slapped a new HG on and ran 1qt. ATF with 4 Quarts oil for maybe 2 minutes... Then IMMEDIATELY FLUSHED and started over with fresh oil(ATF is used, I'm told, because it traps water at a molecular level inside of itself.... "It SUSPENDS h20" and keeps it from staying trapped anywhere... Ya feel me? hehe...

First I should ask... are you doing a full rebuild or hoping to do a good flush/new HG and go? Thought I remembered you having a broke off head bolt, too, no?

Lemme know with a quick summary on JUST THE ENGINE stuff's, k?

Keep up the great work, ...fender portion of the chassis is looking MUCH better! Still not quite true yet, right? Terry and others will be GREAT in that section! ME? Not at all just yet! Not worked on too many body damage resto's..sorry.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

chef: yep the PO broke a head bolt off in the block then snapped an easy out off in that so im pulling the block out i dont want to rebuild her but i might do a rebuild with her that far out of the truck

ill flush it out as it leaked water into the oil an oil into the coolant (according to PO) so far all ive done to the engine is spray some penetrating oil over the pistons an cylinder walls to keep any rust from forming as its open to the air

i have to finish removing the lower intake, alt, an anything that is in the way of lifting it out an get it on an engine stand to know anymore

no the fender isnt quite right yet still a bit more work need to get the corner up more an get the frame mount straightened

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, HATE when PO's from hell have a hold of things! (sorry if it's a family member you got it from, etc., I mean no offense! ahhahahahaa).

Actually, sounds like HE TRIED to right that stud issue... But failed. It happens.

Also, you'll really not know what YOU SHOULD do, IMHO, until you get that block broken down, crank out and rods and caps checked out.... That's all you need is to go through a bunch of work and then wind up spinning a bearing right off the bat/or soon thereafter the 'refresh', right?

Personally, knowing what you've said so far, I'd as least have the Crank turned and re-bearing and ring it... You don't HAVE to bore always... but at least a hone and re-ring. Then again, a bore over and kit for such isn't THAT steep any more... All depends on what you decide you wanna spend, etc., ..I get that, FOR SURE! At least have the head checked out as well, looking for any cracks or tracking or anything that might just leave this thing a SLUG with great potential for near future calamity, ya know?

Best wishes, Dragon! MAN, you must be EXCITED being out of that chair and into some GREASE!!!! WOOT!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

nope not a relative just a CL listing i felt bad though he had all the parts to put her back together but i didnt have the $ to offer him for the gaskets an such he ended up taking a loss on them as they didnt want to refund his $ at the parts store

nod, im gona try an break the easy out first see if i can get it out without going to a shop but if it has to i will

well so far ive tried to spin the engine by hand an its firm my 79 an her mega miles (750K an more) shes easy to turn. the runners pistons are snug in the cylinders no slop no clunking im hoping the lower end is good an wont need the crank turned maybe just new bearings an a ring job as i said theres nearly no cylinder ridge like the engine isnt that old

the head i took a straight edge to an she looks good! oil in this thing is really clean even with the HG someone took really good care of it theres no black goopy oil inside her (like my 79)

oh absolutely been sitting in my recliner so long my rear end hurts sitting in any other seat! ow..my ring gear...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha.. you crack me up, Dragon! I gotta tell ya... wish we could 'teach' others to be grateful and look at life like you're doing.... My stepfather for instance. Some just REQUIRE drama and negativism, it seems... LOVE to bring others down to that point with them, as well... It's VERY sad, as I've seen many, like yourself and even much worse than my Stepfather with such GREAT OUTLOOKS on things... And I KNOW, as I'm sure you do, having gone through some HELL in recovery myself(32 Broken bones, including Skull... Both lungs collapsed...Coma for a while and MONTHS of healing.... CAN'T IMAGINE YEARS like you've been through, man!)... we know that 'ATTITUDE IS CRUCIAL TO QUICKER HEALING' and even A CHANCE at getting back to as norm as possible in the future, ya know? VERY much enjoy reading your stuff/getting to know you a lil bit, man... You seem like a VERY solid, righteous dude!

Far as the motor not turning easy... Sounds VERY MUCH like a spun bearing... And if that's the case, I WOULD, sorry man, I would DEFINITELY have the crank turned. ANY decent machinist that's honest can take one look at your journals and caps and tell you right off if you at least have to turn the crank.... And honestly? If it spun, it can again, simply due to wearing into a space that's not supposed to be there, ya know? IF, of course, that's your issue(which seems likely to me, is all I'm saying).

Wish you were closer... I'd gladly give you a hand, man!

Whatcha all think on what I said so far? I've just not seen many instances with a spun bearing where the crank, at least, didn't need a turning... That would also help to get you to an EXACT proper bearing size... Then you'd NOT have that issue for a long time, at least a LOT less likely.

Just don't wanna see you having to 'redo' anything major, ya know? You appear to have enough on your plate with the Chassis and Body Resto?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS. As I was saying... With the crank out, easy to yoink out the pistons and then hone it right there in the block.... At least then, with a re-ring, you'd have a much better chance of bringing the compression back up, etc. ya know? IF THE HOLES LOOK FINE, and it's just a beginning to spin bearing(probably due to water down there from HG leak)... Then sure, maybe you could just keep it from rusting and forget the hone and re-ring... But I just would personally not want to do all that and then have to pull it anyway(the crank).... I guess get a really good look in there and some pics for us, eh? Any crank GOUGING, etc., ya know?


oh, .........DERRRRRRRR! lol.... I just reread you saying "Gotta get it on the stand"... So yeah, man... My guy does that crank turn for 40$! Might just need a polish... but a Crank specialist will see things we can't even obviously see....ya know?

Either way you go, I wish you the smoothest sailing through it as possible! You EARNED A BREAK, RIGHT? hahaha.

Take care, Dragon....

Cyberhorn The Dragon

Chef: im not always so pleasant LOL its where i got the dragon even my daughter shes 6 roars LOL an thank you for the help offer!

roommate an me were out in the shop looking at the 6x6 across the shop thinking it should be able to hold the block on a chain lift to get it out of the bay an on a stand

what i meant by tight is my old truck its so worn i can grab the crankshaft an turn it by hand with no plugs
the runner i grab an cant turn it an it doesnt have its head or rockers adding friction the PO said it wasnt a high mile engine the lack of rust in the coolant passages an lack of ring ridge at the top of the bores almost prove that

so im hoping it didnt spin a bearing, but we will find out! spun bearings get ugly on repairs

i planned on rings just cause its sensible while in there an with the exposure to the air the walls might rust so honing is gona have to happen

nice afternoon blowup came in rain an wind whipping dust up had to retreat back to the house

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well i had to know i slipped the harmonic ballencer back on the crank an twisted
smooth as lubed silk! pistons eased up an down gliding on the walls (id best stop there might be accused of writing something a bit risque)

gona park the roommates 53 international crawler out infront of the runner to use as a pulling point then get the chain paul or comealong on it ive gotten far as i can with a jack pushing she needs pulling now he reminds me he has an air chisel with a plenishing flat head oh NOW he tells me that with the dolly's i can make very quick work of the ripples an creases in the fender!

sorry for the dark picture but NOT bad shes still a bit low in the corner but much straighter line than before

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well i moved the runner over to near the workshop (surprising how light they are) to get closer to the air hoses an the shop radio then went to work on removing the last things in the way of the engine (PO left the lower intake, starter dangling on its wires, inline fuel filter power steering pump alternator) did a lot of cable an connector moving also lubed the nuts an bolts holding the ac evap coils to the front roommate is an appliance repairman tells me the drier is gona need to be replaced so bleh gona wash brackets an stuff for repainting while its out might as well make things look nice! (have orange stripper on the valve cover which was painted) so likely engine pull this weekend just to get it on the stand an go from there



power steering rack/box leaky thing think i found a rebuild kit on ebay for 33 not bad since the thing from HIlo auto an others is over 190
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260954790861...=p5197.c0.m619

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You got that straightened out alot. You arent to far off. Getting the body lines is a pain. I am going thru that with my hood.

On the rust I would grind it down or out and have a patch panel put in. You can get a cover or the battery will hide it. I have some holes in the floor and am going to try and get a guy over here to put in some patch panels.

As far as any Japanses motor, you will hardly ever see a ridge line. Nothing like domestic motors. I always had to deal with a ridge line. Even Hondas and Nissans is rare to see a ridge line. Even after 300k miles. Alot of the times a top end rebuild is all these motors need. A new head can be had for around $250, so if the machine work gets to high, look at buying a new one. I didnt know this and spent $210 or machine work when for a few doallars more could of had a new one.

There is a company in California that fo around $110 that includes shipping you can get a complete rebuilt motor. I have done that if the machine work is going to be way expensive. But you should be able to do your rebuild alot cheaper. 92 Toy has some good info about rebuilding as well. Probably the best thead on here for a rebuild for guidance.

I have to rebuild a steering box on my brothers truck, that is going to be a first for me. I do have a spare if I get in over my head, but am looking forward to learning something new. Seen some threads on here and it doesnt look bad.