DIRTCO's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#224
I can't believe no one got it on film, that was the Grand Finale of the old 4Runner (although I did not know it at the time). I guess it's your turn ...
I'm just joking, really your 4Runner was part of the reason that I started building the Turbo 4Runner. I saw how well your rig worked, yet had doors, a windshield, clean paint/body and could cruise down the highway just fine. As soon as I got out of the V-Notch the truck was done ,it just took me a while to face that (I've been working on it for over 5 years
). Although I will not be running Carnage anymore, I still plan on running my favorite trails (Holy Cross, Chinaman's, Wheeler Lake, etc) and I don't have a problem coming down and watching you guy's run the hardcore stuff. Aaron also said something about running Blanca this Spring or Summer!How did the rear axle turn out? I also heard that you cut the back off, do you have any pics?
#225
I ended up picking up a 86-95 rear axle and I also put a full floater kit on it.. I am currently working on a partial exo cage. Here are the progress pics on the rear hatch.

And the rear tire flips up and still swings out.

The most irrritating part was how we were talking about breaking out the rear glass during the jambo and then on accident I broke it out in the garage. It would have been much cooler to do on the trail.

And the rear tire flips up and still swings out.

The most irrritating part was how we were talking about breaking out the rear glass during the jambo and then on accident I broke it out in the garage. It would have been much cooler to do on the trail.
#226
The SAS is holding me up a bit so I have been just working on the small stuff. I wanted to start the SAS this weekend, but I don't have access to the shop next weekend and I would like to have at least two or three weekends in a row to wrap up all the details.
So, today I kept working on the wiring. I got all the wiring ran to almost the firewall and the rear cargo light is done, beside's for hooking up the power wire.
I first started on the rear cargo light and worked forward. I used a connector the same size as stock, so I can unplug it if I take the top off.




So, today I kept working on the wiring. I got all the wiring ran to almost the firewall and the rear cargo light is done, beside's for hooking up the power wire.
I first started on the rear cargo light and worked forward. I used a connector the same size as stock, so I can unplug it if I take the top off.




#227
I then ran all the wiring to the front of the truck and started making mini harness for the switches.


I also went through all my connectors and found some replacement terminals for the off road light switch, I cut the original ones too short.




I also went through all my connectors and found some replacement terminals for the off road light switch, I cut the original ones too short.


#228
The wires with no terminals on them are going to go to the CB (once I get one) and the wires with termianls are going to a switch to turn off the electric fan for water crossings. The electric fan controller has a built in feature for that, it just has to be wired up.


#229
I ended up picking up a 86-95 rear axle and I also put a full floater kit on it.. I am currently working on a partial exo cage. Here are the progress pics on the rear hatch.

And the rear tire flips up and still swings out.

The most irrritating part was how we were talking about breaking out the rear glass during the jambo and then on accident I broke it out in the garage. It would have been much cooler to do on the trail.


And the rear tire flips up and still swings out.

The most irrritating part was how we were talking about breaking out the rear glass during the jambo and then on accident I broke it out in the garage. It would have been much cooler to do on the trail.

#231
Not really, the SAS is holding me up quite a bit. I couldn't use the shop this last weekend, so I took care of some other stuff. Once I start the SAS I want at least 2-3 weekends to wrap up the details. The other issue is that this is my only vehicle, so come Sunday night it has to be out of the shop and driveable. That's not a huge deal, but I want to make sure I have everything I need.
I did pick up a CB, it's cheap but it should do the job and it's really small. I plan on mounting it under the cd player, where the little cubby hole is.

I also got some new headlight bulbs. I have the IPF H4 conversion housings with some REALLY blue bulbs. They look cool but are not very bright and it can be kind of hard to see at times. One of my friends had an extra set of the PIAA Extreme White Plus bulbs, so I'm going to give them a shot and see if they make a differance.
What I have now

And the new ones
I did pick up a CB, it's cheap but it should do the job and it's really small. I plan on mounting it under the cd player, where the little cubby hole is.

I also got some new headlight bulbs. I have the IPF H4 conversion housings with some REALLY blue bulbs. They look cool but are not very bright and it can be kind of hard to see at times. One of my friends had an extra set of the PIAA Extreme White Plus bulbs, so I'm going to give them a shot and see if they make a differance.
What I have now

And the new ones
#233
I've also been doing some research on front shock mounts. I was going to re-use my old All-Pro shock hoops, but after looking at my engine bay I dont know if that's a good idea. To use the old ones I will have to cut the inner fender to get them to fit. While that does not seem like a big deal, on the Turbos there is a lot more stuff and when you combine that with a full MSD 6A ignition system (along with a bunch of other wiring, etc), it starts to get limited on the amount of room you have. After looking at where I could remount eveything, I came to the conculsion that I can't cut the inner fenders because there is no place to put all this stuff. I also would like to keep everything "some what" out of the elements.
After coming to this conclusion I started researching the Ford shock mounts. They seem cheap, easy to modify and I don't think I would have to cut the inner fenders.
Is any one else running these without a body lift? If so how did they work out and was there any clearance issues, etc?
After searching for a while, here's a couple pictures that I found. This first group has the inner fenders cut.



After coming to this conclusion I started researching the Ford shock mounts. They seem cheap, easy to modify and I don't think I would have to cut the inner fenders.
Is any one else running these without a body lift? If so how did they work out and was there any clearance issues, etc?
After searching for a while, here's a couple pictures that I found. This first group has the inner fenders cut.



#236
Those look a lot like Ford upper shock mounts. We used to use those on the front of Scouts to mount some longer shocks, might be worth a try.
Edit. Looks like there is a little blue oval on this one.
Edit. Looks like there is a little blue oval on this one.
Last edited by Junkers88; Nov 17, 2008 at 05:09 PM.
#238
I've also been doing some research on front shock mounts. I was going to re-use my old All-Pro shock hoops, but after looking at my engine bay I dont know if that's a good idea. To use the old ones I will have to cut the inner fender to get them to fit. While that does not seem like a big deal, on the Turbos there is a lot more stuff and when you combine that with a full MSD 6A ignition system (along with a bunch of other wiring, etc), it starts to get limited on the amount of room you have. After looking at where I could remount eveything, I came to the conculsion that I can't cut the inner fenders because there is no place to put all this stuff. I also would like to keep everything "some what" out of the elements.
#239
I think so. I might be able to re-use the All-Pro hoops but I think it might be more work than it's worth. The Ford mounts seem a lot easier to work with and are a lot narrower.
Here are a couple pictures of the old All-Pro shock hoops




They are Ford shock mounts, the Ford part number should be #E5TZ-18183-A. I've heard that they run about $20.00 each.






