86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section) Post your build-ups here

DIRTCO's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #421  
Hayes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
Have you gotten a chance to get that auto shifter installed?
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #422  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Originally Posted by Hayes
Have you gotten a chance to get that auto shifter installed?
Nope, not yet. I had to order up a switch to go from manual to auto mode.

Here's a couple pictures of the Sirius mount. The screws that hold the bracket in place go through the dash pad, and into the sheet metal behind it.





Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:59 PM
  #423  
Hayes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
thanks for the pics. I need to find a good mount that I can use for my GPS. The window mount sucks.
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:33 PM
  #424  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
I got my rear shocks set up this weekend. I thought about mounting them the same way they were in the green 4Runner (like this / \), but there seems to be more body roll with that set up. It was also going to be a tight fit with the exhaust.

Instead I mounted them like Toyota does from the Factory, except both of them on the rear side of the axle housing.

I started out with the old front shock hoops from the green truck



I cut the shock tabs off, bolted them together and hit them with a grinder (to get the same shape and radius on both of them).



Then I cut a sleeve to keep the correct width and keep the tabs from moving around when welding them

Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #425  
BoostedRNR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Logan, Ut
I was wondering where you are finding info on these transfercases, I'm curious on how they work. Mines weird and sometimes won't shift into 4low till it warms up for quite a while. Did you have this problem?
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #426  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
First I had to remove the passenger side stock shock mount. I ended up welding the stud that goes through the frame solid to the frame. The frame was a little thin under the old bracket so I didn't bother trying to clean it up too much.



And the new shock mounts, I plan on bracing them some more.



Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #427  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Lower mounts





Shocks on











Reply
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #428  
phildelfino's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 872
Likes: 1
From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by DIRTCO
Lower mounts





Shocks on













Now that's clever. Good idea.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:36 AM
  #429  
Hayes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
Did you ever find out how much longer/shorter your gear driven t-case setup will be than your stock setup?
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:39 AM
  #430  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Originally Posted by BoostedRNR
I was wondering where you are finding info on these transfercases, I'm curious on how they work. Mines weird and sometimes won't shift into 4low till it warms up for quite a while. Did you have this problem?
Most of the stuff I've found is on the internet. I did a bunch of research before I deciced to keep the auto. I've had the 4 wheel drive act up on my transfer case a bunch. Last winter, to get it to be in 4wd high I would have to shift into 4low first, drive a few feet and shift back to 4 high. If I didn't do this the t-case would not engage the front wheel drive.

Also, the first time I took the truck wheeling (when it was stock) I shifted into 4 low and started to climb a hill. The truck was completly gutless and when I can up to a small rock that I had to climb over the truck would not move. I thought I messed up the transmission, but after messing with the shifter I found out I was only in 2wd and was able to get the 4wd low to engage.

From what I've heard this is a pretty common issue with the stock auto t-case. Every time I've had it in 4 low the transmission has been up to operating temp, but it could be possible that the computer will not let the 4 low engage until it's warm enough (like the overdrive). You could also be having issues with the shift linkage or solenoids. One other thing to check would be your fluid levels and how clean they are.

Originally Posted by phildelfino
Now that's clever. Good idea.
Thanks, I need to get some longer shocks for the rear now (these are a little short) but overall they seem to work good. I'll have to see how they handle on the trail

Originally Posted by Hayes
Did you ever find out how much longer/shorter your gear driven t-case setup will be than your stock setup?
I know that the entire gear driven t-case / auto trans set up should be about 1 1/2" - 2" shorter than a manual dual case set up. I have not yet measured how much length that will add to the stock auto drivetrain. Having dual cases in the last rig I have a good idea how everything should line up. As soon as I find out I'll let you know.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #431  
dam_skippy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: salt lake city ut
hay!!!cool rig is that tig welding or ark weld??? welcome to the turbo club I own one as well (pulled over by cop just caus he hurd my turbo) ha ha.. mine is an sr5 and it to has the knight rider digital dash. im in the process of changing the head gaskit and have her all torn down but hope to go to moab in the spring and do some viewing. got tired of pro's telling me what my engin needed so here i am in the school of hard knocks but it is better to have learned and lost than to not have learned at all
Reply
Old Feb 1, 2009 | 02:43 PM
  #432  
Hayes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
alright, two things for you...

1. Why would you want to be spooled up front? Is it just the extra wear on the tires?

2. Have you found any information on the auto trans? I am looking to find out if the Turbo trans has different frictions, or other components. I am going to try and rebuild the trans this coming winter, and am trying to figure out whether I need to upgrade the frictions inside, or just stick with stock replacements.

I plan on supercharging or turboing the truck this summer. (I'm just looking for more power around town).
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #433  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Originally Posted by Hayes
alright, two things for you...

1. Why would you want to be spooled up front? Is it just the extra wear on the tires?

2. Have you found any information on the auto trans? I am looking to find out if the Turbo trans has different frictions, or other components. I am going to try and rebuild the trans this coming winter, and am trying to figure out whether I need to upgrade the frictions inside, or just stick with stock replacements.

I plan on supercharging or turboing the truck this summer. (I'm just looking for more power around town).
I switched the spool to the front mainly for reduced tire wear. I wanted to get some ARB's but I can't afford it for a while. With a locker in the back, I hardly ever need 4wd for everyday winter driving. Plus, my Lockright hardly ever unlocked when it was in the front. I doubt it will be much of a differance handling wise (trail and street) and with the 30 spline front axles, ARP knuckle studs, 5th stud I'm not too worryed about breaking much.

As for the internals of the transmission I really have no idea, but I would guess that there is some differances. My 4Runner has an extra transfer case cooler, while my 85 auto did not. Also the ECT transmission computer is different. I'm guessing they might have changed a few things inside as well.

Last edited by DIRTCO; Feb 2, 2009 at 04:16 PM.
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #434  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
I started getting the transmission controller installed this last weekend. I still have to finish up some of the wiring but overall everything is where it needs to be. I took a lot of pictures since there are a few people interested in how it will work out.

I got the switches and LED's from DelCity
http://www.delcity.net/

You have to use a 3PDT switch to go from manual to normal computer mode.
Here's the one I got part number 791002
http://www.delcity.net/store/search/...64.a_1.t_1.n_y

I also picked up a toggle safety cover to prevent bumping the switch.
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:39 PM
  #435  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
The plan was to install the shifter where the stock 4wd shifter was. Since I will be converting over to a gear drive transfer case I don't need it any more.

Here's how it looked when I started





With the cover removed





After I removed the cover I disconnected the 4wd linkage under the truck. I unbolted it from the t-case while it was locked in two wheel drive, that way I didn't have to worry about knocking it into 4low or any other issue's like that.







Here is all the linkage gone, I tied up the last section of linkage and will remove it once I tear apart the t-case.

Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #436  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Then I removed the 4wd shifter assy.





And started clearancing the hole for the new shifter.



Then I started building a bracket to hold the unit, it took a couple times but ended up working out well. There is no attachment provisions on the unit itself so I had to get it to fit snug in the shifter assy and there is double side tape on the the bracket. I really doubt it's going to move at all, it's in there very tight.





Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:03 PM
  #437  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Next I installed the LED's to indicate what gear I'm in. I wanted to figure out a fancy way to have each gear light a LED but it started getting complex. These two LED's are wired with the solenoids and light up in the following order.

1st gear - blue
2nd gear - blue and red
3rd gear - red
4th gear - no lights







Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #438  
83 stump jumper's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Medford Oregon
Wow man looks great!
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #439  
Hayes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
That's nice looking.


Can I have that transfer case linkage part that rotates on the end of the housing? Mine is all busted up and nasty...
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #440  
DIRTCO's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
From: Summit County, Colorado
Then I got all the switched mounted in the plastic cover. The switch on the right is for the unit itself, the switch on the left in for the torque converter lock up, along with the red LED.





And here is everything put back together, I still have to finish some of the wiring but everything is in it's new home. I did have to trim a little off the transmission shifter cover because it hit the switch, but you can hardly tell when you look at it.



Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:17 AM.