So, I hear valve chatter that needed to be addressed before heading to the smog station. I discover more neglect from the PO after removing the valve cover.

Some one missed a few oil changes would be my guess. The whole valve train was covered with carbon deposit buildup, which is noticeably visible on the inside of the valve cover.

I also decided to clean up the outside because of an oil leak which is now mended with new gasket and grommets.

 

OMG, fellow yotatech'ers, I have a super awesome update for you. I have HI-PRA on the road. I have been driving to her to work for the past two days.

Here is the pic, so it really did happen.

 

That is a great feeling finally driving a long term project!

 

Feel weird being up high again? I'm missing it something fierce. Tired of having to sit down into a car and then climb out.

 

There are a few little things I need too address, I am just glad that I can finally use my truck for what it is meant for. I did discover a output shaft leak on the T-case, and The thing really needs an aliment.
(UPDATE) I fixed the output shaft leak on the T-case today.

Yes Troy, it does feel kind of strange sitting up that high; especially since this truck is higher then the 86 was.

 

Just read your thread. sucks about the 86. But your next project looks like it's gonna be awesome once you're done!

 

once I am done? Now that its on the road I feel like I can finally begin the project!

Still more things to fix from the PO. I have been hearing a clunking sound coming from around the front passenger body mount. I have searched and searched for the cause with no conclusion. So when all else fails one must check to see what has been modified and how. Sure enough I found the cause of the clunk. The shock tabs that hold the shock to the upper shock hoop makes contact to the inner fender well. The sound from the contact travels through the sheet metal and seems to enter the cab near the body mount. Body lift plans will fix this.

I still need to re-weld the frame side mount of the steering stabilizer, so the stabilizer is parallel to the steering linkage. Currently I am running without the stabilizer; I am surprised how well the truck handles without a stabilizer. It will be even better when the stabilizer is actually stabilizing.

I have been learning about Trail Gear springs and how Trail Gear's instructions for installation are not optimum. I am toying with several idea to fix the bad shackle angle, stiff ride, and the (too d*mn high) rid height. Some of the ideas are unconventional which fallows my track record, but I have not decided yet what I want to do. I do know this much, I am replacing all the bushings with new and adding sleeves. While I have the springs out for new bushings I will be pulling some leaves and rebuilding all the slip surfaces. I will need to take measurements and pictures to document how the rid height changes.

It is certainly time to pull out the welder and metal cutting tools.

 

Sounds like you need a couple swings from a BFH on the sheet metal in your wheel well and to play around with your leaf pack. Messing with leaves might correct your shackle angle, not sure what direction you've got a bad angle?

 

Yeah, I could clearance the inner fender well easily. I am not to concerned about the noise anymore now that I know the cause.

The trail gear leafs are not long enough with regards to where they recommend the shackle tube be placed. My shackle angle is pretty vertical, and even if the springs were flat the shackle angle would not change much. The best option would be to replace the main leaf with a longer one and maybe shorten the shackle, but that option may not be easily rectified depending on whether I would have to have some main leafs made or not too do that. I am also contemplating a double shackle set up, but not a traditional double shackle. I would set it up so that the shackle connected to the frame is swung forward against the frame, and never move, it would be fixed in place. I would then bolt the second shackle to the end of the first one that is fixed to the frame. That would be easier then welding new tubes forward of the current ones.

UPDATE
I did some work today while it is not raining. I have had a Badlands winch since 2010. I was going to install it on the 86, but we all know what happened to that rig. So today I bolted her up after having the winch sitting in the garage for many years. I have not done the electrical at this time, just bolted the thing in place. I will get a battery cutoff switch and possibly finish the install this week. Here are some pictures of my progress.

 

I found something very interesting today. I replaced the T-case output shaft seal because it was leaking. Well when I went to fill up the T-case with gear oil I discovered that the T-case was way beyond full. The T-case was so full that when the oil gets hot and expands it pushes past the output shaft seal. Just another complaint I have with the PO of this truck. He must have filled the T-case through the shifter, and guessed how much oil was needed much was needed. By now I should not be surprised by what I find wrong with the truck but I can not help my self.

Thank goodness I have the truck now, because I imagine if the PO still had it the truck would be on its way to a crusher.

 

Just curious what TG lift springs you have up front. I've read that the 3" lift springs are shorter eye to eye than the 4 or 5" lift springs. If you have the 3" lift then you should be able to find a longer main leaf. What about moving your front spring hanger back to correct the shackle angle? I know it would be a PITA grinding down the welds to move the hanger, but might be a better option than adding new shackle tubes in front of the current ones. That sucks that you are continually having to fix the PO's work, but your making progress, and the trucks looking good!

 

You would be correct, the front springs are the 3" lift springs. I have also thought of changing the main leaf as well. After measuring and checking angles, it looks like the main leaf from a Jeep will be a good fit with some minor corrections.

On another note, I think I have discovered my wheel alignment issue. It looks like the passenger side of the axle housing is bent. I am betting that one of the POs came down really hard on that side or hit something that compressed the spring into not properly installed bumpstop, and somehow pushed the shock hoop into the fenderwell, which is making contact as I drive. I will be leveling out the frame on jackstands and will measure off the spindles looking for differences between driver and passenger sides.

 

Back a few years when I was researching sas, I was following Locked SR5's build and he had the same problem with TG 3" springs. He ended up using toyota rear leaf main springs, and the rest were from the TG spring pack. It improved his shackle angle, just thought I'd throw that out there, doesn't hurt to have options, lol. Sorry to hear about the possible bent axel.

Here's a link to his build:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...75/index2.html






.

 

Thanks for the link, here I was thinking that the 3" springs were 44". I will find a solution.

I have suspected that the axle house is bent for a long time now, but could not prove it to my self, as there were already so many things wrong with the front suspension. I am sure it is bent, but I still want to be absolutely certain by discovering how many degrees it is bent and it which direction. I most likely will get an aftermarket housing. I have read bad press on the TG housing, so I am leaning towards RuffStuff's housing, Plus RuffStuff is 30 minute from me.

 

Why not another toyota axle?

 

As I have been learning, the stock yota housings bend. It really does surprise me why everyone want to chop the IFS of these things, just to deal with all the headache that a SAS brings. I can say this from my experience with long travel and SAS, better ride, easier to work on, takes less time to deal with, alignments are not headaches. Long travel is a joy,and a SAS truly is a money-pit.

 

Sounds like it's time to start building the center different monster for your other frame. Then body swap it.

 

That would be nice if I wanted to dedicate the time to that, but at the moment I would just like to get out and wheel. Sit back around a campfire and B.S. about the what ifs. I will be sticking with What I have for now and make it suite my needs the best I can, even if that requires $700 for a new front housing. Only when my plans for this truck is fulfilled will I even entertain swapping frames. You know how it is Troy, you just have to make your project reflect who you are.

 

I have heard/read multiple people saying they won't use a stock Toy axle for SAS anymore.
Scott at Addicted Off Road is one. Mainly due to issues associated with 35 year old stuff possibly being tweaked.

I can respect the pros and cons of both suspension systems. On the 94 I thought about LT but am going SAS due to budget considerations, goal is to try to keep total costs (including purchase price of 4Runner) below $2k

 

Wow, $2000, now that there is a goal. Good luck and keep up the good work Dropzone.