Ok, good news and bad news. I got the new fuel pump yesterday. Put it in this morning. It did come with a new strainer, but the rubber cushion on the end of the pump would not fit with the new strainer, so I cleaned the old one and put it back on. I had to run out and get a piece of 5/16" fuel hose. Also I wire brushed the bracket to clean it up a bit.



The bad news is that was NOT the problem. Truck still did not start. So I measured the voltage at the fuel pump connector with IGN on and was reading 2.4 Volts. So I went back and found Chef's for sale pic of the kick panel fuse cover, and found out a couple of things. Number 1, I am missing the EFI fuse that is there in the kick panel. The terminal is a bit burned, so they must have had a short or something. I'm guessing they have bypassed the fuse block somewhere in the wiring, so I've got to sort that out. I also noticed that I am missing the Main Relay. I'm not sure what else this relay handles, but it provides 12V to the fuel pump. In place of the relay, the PO put this wire:


I touched the wire and it just crumbled, so that seemed like the smoking gun. I should have known when I measured 10.5V at the B+ in the diagnostic connector that something was wrong. Anyway, I'm ordering a new main relay,and in the meantime, I put a new wire back in it's place and the truck fired right up. So basically I replaced the fuel pump for no reason.

 

Holy Jumper Wires from HELL, C-Man!! lol.

I would pull that panel if I were you... You really need to be sure it's not all mix and matched back there... AND< you'll likely have to repair whatever burned and had caused them to do this in the first place, ya know? For now, just jumper that WITH NEW wire and see if it's more like 12.25V..... If not, then the fuse panel likely needs to be carefully cleaned up as well(or something was tampered with back there)... RAD4Runner, a guy who you'll find on my thread in the last several posts... He's posted in his threads a GREAT write up on the 'tinkering' with THAT VERY fuse block.. AND, it has pics of EVERY WIRE from the behind, how it's hooked up/joined together/fed power, etc. I'll be using his instructions to pull a 'constant hot' Deck Lamp Switch back there that'll be jumped off to another light, etc. (I got a 'DAYLIGHT' project going on back there, lol.

Wish I knew this... could probably have sent ya a main fuse, etc. (NOT bad on price... Just sucks on shipping, lol..... "MAIN" relay is like 8$ likely(the round one of 3 like it)>>> ..... but shipping is 12$????????? hahaha... MAYBE could walk in and get one at the dealer for around 12... I'm not sure.

Best wishes!

 

Thanks Chef! Hey, I got the maplight, thank you so much. I wish I had know about these issues before I bought a fuel pump, but oh well. The truck seems to be running really strong right now, don't know if it's the new wire or the new fuel pump. I'll check out RadRunners posts and see what info he's got. Your pic of the kick panel fuse cover helped me out on this one, so thanks for that.

 

while youve got the connector available to the pump just to check
put a continuity check on it from the wires in it to the body

if it beeps or shows a connection its still got a short in the line somewhere if so look around where wires go through panels a gromet might have rotted an let it cut the wires

 

Glad to hear you got it running. Sorry to hear the fuel pump wasnt an exact fit. Never tried that brand. Getting the fuse block out was a royal pain for me the first time. Here is what I sent to RAD to help him get his out.

Copied...
On the cut out just above the 15 and 20 amp fuse slide your middle finger until it stops. Your finger should kind of feel like it is inbetween 2 pieces of plastic, that is the release tab. Lift straight up on it and with your thumb and pinky or ring finger you should be able to grasp the fuse box on the sides and slide it straight off (horizontally) of the 2 tabs that hold it at the top of the fuse block.

 

Thanks Cyberhorn for the tip on finding shorts. Obviously something burned in the EFI fuse path, so I'll check those wires. I'm browsing around the classifieds and think I might have a line on a new fuse panel, mine has the plastic melted a bit around that EFI fuse.

Thanks Terry, that will come in handy. I'm trying to locate a replacement fuse block so I can just swap in a non-melted one. Gotta check out the wiring to the EFI circuitry too to make sure nothing is shorted anywhere. It's really amazing this truck even runs.

 

Hey, ..... did you ask me about tailgate latches? I can't find the message I got during the trip to AZ..... And accidentally erased TONS of PM's.... So just making sure. haha.

 

No wasn't me. I asked about the 2nd gen dome light and the main relay.

 

Ok, ..yeah, I got that down.... Just starting to think I dreamed that or something! haha.

I SWEAR I got a message... But, must have been either erased or in a Phone Call. hahaha.

 

Well, bit of a mishap on Friday coming home from work on the Florida Turnpike...



A little closer shot


Only thing I can think of is that I did not fully seat one of the c-clips that hold the cup on. AAA came to the rescue and towed me home. Good thing it was that end of the driveshaft.

 

well that could have ended far worse
if ya dont have AAA you could conceivably drive home on the front end kris my roommate did on his 76 dodge powerwagon 4x4

 

Glad to see you are alright and no major damage. You are right that atleast it wasnt the front of the shaft.

 

Thanks Cyber and thanks Terry. Yeah definitely could have been worse. As it stands, the yoke that mounts to the diff flange is pretty beat up from the ujoint pulling itself out of there, so I gotta locate a new one of those. Also, I see some drips of oil from the pinion seal, I hope my pinion bearing did not get beat up by the violent shaking.

I found that I can order a new main relay from toyotapartzone for $8.70, which is great, the shipping is the real killer, it's like $12. I think I'm gonna throw in a new pinion seal and nut too.

Still would like a replacement kick panel fuse block if anyone has one. My EFI fuse is missing and the terminals appear burned and melted.

 

the fuse block id ask mark (chef) he has a treasure hunters luck in calif with runners an parts he might beable to find you one

check with your local drive shaft shops it might be cheaper to have them do the work an rebalence the shaft versus finding another shaft just an idea

eww pinion seal i hate doing those

 

Cyber - hmm, I had not thought of checking with a drive line shop. I may just do that, thanks!

 

Man, gotta love ebay, I found a main EFI relay for $4.95 with free shipping. It is used, but supposedly tested and it is OEM. Can't really go wrong for the money. The OEM Toyota sites want $8.70 plus like $12 shipping. Part number is 90987-02004 in case anyone wants to search for one.

Also, got a couple of people helping me out on the fuse panel. Gotta look at my wiring behind mine to see if I need anything more than the panel itself.

And on the driveshaft, my dad has an old Toyota driveshaft from one of my brothers he is going to send me. I really just need the yoke that bolts to the diff end.

 

I would rather have a used OEM over a reproduction part. Alot of the things they are producing is real low quality. I have used old relays and work great.

 

Yep, I have around 10 of those, sorry, lol... been crazy... I will let them go for around that, sounds good. Got that thing packed for ya. .. Did u message me?

 

I have been accumulating a lot of parts lately to install on the truck. Since we moved at the end of October, it is hilarious the number of boxes in the garage that say "4Runner Parts" on them. Anyway, kindof making a list here myself to see what I've got and put them in priority order. All of this stuff is sitting in the garage just waiting to be installed...

1. New rear ujoint and driveshaft flange (need this one to actually drive the truck)

2. Kick panel fuse block from Terry (this will allow me to actually put a fuse in the EFI circuit and remove that stupid jumper wire)

3. Main relay (got used one from eBay, the new fuse block will allow me to use it)

4. Rear shoulder belts (bought these on the forum from someone parting out a truck, really wanting to increase the safety factor)

5. 2nd gen maplight/mirror (got this from Chef, this will be a real treat to have some good light)

6. 2nd gen dome light (probably putting this in my cargo area on the wiper motor cover)

7. Mercury villager efan and DCC controller

8. Ball joint spacers and my longer rear shackles

 

A list really helps speed things up, think you will be surprised at what a difference that it can make. I know what you mean by getting the parts and they just stack up, I keep hoping they will install themselves sometimes but hasnt happened yet.