Chef - yeah my drivers CV was complete toast, I blew it up last time I went offroading, so I had to get a whole new one.

Sorry about bringing up the E-fan, guess you'll need to get one now!

I really think it will move more air across my condenser than my crappy old engine fan. I need colder AC, just a degree or two and I'll be happy.

 

Terry - pulled off my cowl and grabbed handfuls of leaves, pine needles, and strangely some insulation out of there. I think maybe there was a mouse or a bird living in there long ago. I sucked up the rest with my shopvac.



I broke one of the clips on the passenger side removing it, but overall was pretty easy to get off I didn't see where there was any real rust in there, but you really can't see all the way down in there, so I'm not sure. Just about ready to start welding patches over those holes.

 

Bet you feel better getting that stuff out of there. That is something I just stumbled into and when I checked my other trucks, they had a lot of debri in there as well. I knew a guy that restored old 50s cars and some of the things that gets in them was a real eye opener.

I am into some deep cleaning on my truck, it was filthy, but when I get done with it, it will be clean. Just part of working on old cars and trucks.

You will find having a "to do" list speeds thing up quite a bit and when you are done, it really helps you realize what you did get done even when it doesnt look like it.

I cant help on the AC, but I find that jacking the front end of the truck up makes beeding the Power Steering system off alot easier and seems to do a better job. Just get the tires off of the ground and turn side to side til you hit the stops on each side.

Your making progress. Great job.

 

Subscribed

 

subscribing

 

DAGNABBIT! ............. now I have to stop by and toss more mouse treats in there when you're sleeping! hahahaha...

DAYUMMMMMMM! that's just.... Well, it's insane! hehe.

UPDATES?

 

Thank you guys for reading and subscribing. We are buying a new house so I've been assigned to other tasks lately, and I've been prepping our old house to rent out, lots of painting, yardwork, etc. I will be getting back on the truck probably in a month or so, once we get moved in and unpacked.

Thanks Chef, no real updates just yet. Moving is consuming all my free time right now, soon though I hope to get back to spending time and money on the truck.

 

Webshots seems to have modified their photo hosting, so now I have to move all my build photos to photobucket...I am in the process of fixing all the broken photo links, gonna take me several days.

 

I have not been actively posting in the last couple months, but I have been reading all my favorite threads. We moved, so that has consumed most of my time. I did start on a couple of things and will get some photos up soon.

1. I took off my rear dshaft because I noticed a drip of diff oil on the ground. The pinion seal is not that old, so either I did not put it in well or the nut came loose, or maybe my ujoints are wobbly. Anyway, I have new u-joints so I'll be pressing and pounding on them here in the next couple weeks as I have time. The shaft is off and in the garage.

2. I FINALLY ordered the DCC 2SP fan controller for my Villager fan. I will take some pics when I receive it. And hopefully I'll get a little time to work on installing that in the coming weeks as well.

 

Your life will be turned upside down for awhile after a move, no matter how well you are prepared for it. Im not sure if I won a million dollar home if I would want to move into it, still having nightmare from the last two moves.lol.

Hope your driveshaft is just u-joints, they can be a pain to separate.

 

Hey Coryc85, What part of South Florida did you move too? I saw your listing on CL the other as i see the resemblance of the photos here on this board as well.

On the U-joints, the easiest way i found to get it off is with a large C-clamp and a socket. I welded the socket to the c-clamp, i try to post a picture of the home made tool. I needed it for the u-joint on my xterra and it worked out okay. Bought C-clamp and socket at HF for a total of $7.00.

By the way never buy a Nissan, they are trouble after a few years. My xterra Computer, tranny, ac, fuel pump, etc... the Nissan Murano, I heard that when they have to change the oil pump or something they have to drop the engine. all around bad news.

 

Junk - I moved only 6 miles from my old house, still in Broward County. The city is Coral Springs. Yeah, that was my stuff on craigslist, you have a good eye, I actually sold the engine block, intake, exhaust manifold and the y-pipe to some local guys off there.

That homemade tool sounds pretty good, I'll try the c-clamp method and see if it works any better. I have the press, hopefully I can get a chance to work on them this weekend, I've been busy painting the house.

 

On Saturday this past week I was up and around Bokamper Bar and grill in Plantation. Last minute trip up there all the way from West Kendall Lakes down south. Would of been a chance to get those sway bar parts from you that you offered a few weeks ago since I haven't purchased them from yet from the dealer. Oh well...

Here's a picture of that home made tool. The socket was welded so that i could tighten it up with a ratchet, but I found out one thing that the strength wasn't so great on this made in china clamp, it would open the c-clamp up as the u-joint was very tight so what I did was tighten a little and lightly hammered it. did that a few times and it pops out no problem. the same in reverse when putting it in.

 

Got some time here on Christmas Eve to work on the truck, thought I would work on the u-joints a bit. Man, that is some work. I have a press and 2 vises, but honestly, a hammer, a socket, and a block of wood seemed to work best. Anyway, after about 2 hours, I had both joints changed in the rear drive shaft and had it back on the truck.

Wanted to do a little test drive, but the truck would not start, cranked and cranked, but no start. I don't hear the fuel pump running, so I'm suspecting that. Will dive into troubleshooting that in the next couple days. Gotta check the fuse, and then power at the B+ diagnostic terminal. I don't hear it, so either it's dead or it's not getting power. Great, one more thing on my list!

 

Bummer on the no start!

MERRY CHRISTMAS, HOMIE! lol.... Hope you have a great one!

PS> Shipped today.... 8.38$ ..... ... guess I forgot Florida was far? hahahaha. (I AM NOT worried about it... Just thought it was funny, as he read it to me... so I chuckled... He asked, "What?"... I said, "I guess I'm not the quick learning newb I thought I was..... And btw, your site wasn't even CLOSE to that".......He responded, .... "Oh well..... Merry Christmas", lol.... I chuckled again. I mean, after the day I had? THAT WAS HILARIOUS!)

PSS> YES, UJOINTS ARE A PITA! lol. My machinist buddy does em in 5min.... GOTTA love having buddies like that, right? hehe.

 

U-joints can be a bigger pain then what you would think at times. Sorry to hear about the no start issue. You will get it, just hang in there.

 

Chef - thanks for the maplight, can't wait to get it installed! I owe you for the 2.38, I'll make it up to you.

Terry, thanks for reading. You've been busy from what I read. Anyway, yeah those u-joints were awful. I read thru your fuel pump posts, and that seller is apparently no longer on ebay. Oh well. Since today is Christmas, I'll probably check power to the pump tomorrow and if there is power, if power is there, I'm assuming the pump is bad. It's from around late 2006, so it's pretty old, the PO changed it right as we bought the truck from them and it came from one of the auto stores. Thank god it's a 4Runner and I don't have to drop the tank!

 

I will go back and update my link.. Here it is, just make sure the year make and model is correct, I put the correct info in but it still could of changed... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pum...30691053648%26

 

Thanks Terry!

Well I went out this morning and checked the voltage at the diagnostic terminal B+, and it was about 10.5V with ignition on.


According to the FSM, page FI-50, if there is B+ at the diag connector, then the fuses and the relay should be fine. I had long ago jumped Fp to B+ so that the fuel pump was always on with ignition. I have a little paper clip that I shove down in there. So at this point, I'm thinking the pump must be bad.

 

Terry, I *think* the one you posted is for the Turbo model, when I put my truck info in, ebay said it was not compatible. So I ended up ordering this one for $21.75, it came with a new strainer whereas the carpartswholesale one did not come with a strainer:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150824144802

I took a couple photos, first of the new ujoints installed, not really much to see:



And another thing I recently did and have not had the chance to try out b/c of this fuel pump issue is I unhooked the LSPV rod and zip tied it all the way up. I'm curious to see how the braking is, a lot of people have apparently done this.