No worries, no offense, lol....Yeah, Lumpy, I'm sure. I numbered them as they came off, when tearing it down. I was very anal about that.

Anyway, the home made connection would take more thought and resources than I currently have here at home. The Connector end shouldn't be a problem, but the injector end? ....that's another issue. The connector, inside, it looks to be in really good condition, and besides the boot, it's got a rubber seal at the bottom of the inside of the connector, to seal up against the injector outer housing. AIR TIGHT/WATER TIGHT.

To Rob, .......The couplers inside the connector don't seem to be moving much at all, let alone out the back, so I guess that's out as well.

I'm really stumped guys...know anyone else that might be a real pro at this stuff? I'm thinking of removing the retaining clip for now, and plugging it back in, just to check, plus, I'm going to carefullyyyyyyyy pry up the female crimps in the connector, just to be sure it's tight. I think, when rotating them, etc., they can come a lil loose, but I can't see that causing it not to fire at all, ya know?

 

Don't know what to say at this point. If the injector is getting a pulse & the plug is firing then it should work. I would almost be willing to believe that you got a bad spark plug before I would say you got a bad injector.

 

maybe you didn't have the injector connector all the way on?

 

put it back together & try to start it again.

 

Well, maybe the connection at a splice is good enough to make the light blink a bit but not enough to make the injector do what it's suppose to do. Maybe follow Yotarob and start working back the harness...

 

Well, would it even light the noid at all if it were under 5v?

Also, when you put the connector on the injector, it clicks that snap ring(PITA).

In regards to spark plugs/spark, I switched the 2 and 3 plug, and #2 pipe was still the cold one.

 

How did you check #2 for spark?

 

I'm going to attempt to connect it again, fire it up, but if it's still failing in #2, I might just have to take it to Toyota and give them 70$ to save me a day and maybe damaging something? They're really out to please right now, especially in service, .....so it might end up being the best course of action....plus, I can speak with the guy, personally, beforehand and make sure he knows, "I KNOW what I"m doing for the most part....so just find the missing link"....only problem is, it hasn't even been through the initial 20 minute run at 2000-2500 rpm's!!!!!!!!!!!! So how will they fully test it? I guess maybe this could be a ECU issue, because after having the ground off all night, I tried to fire it up, ....no bueno! lol.

 

Well, in regards to the wire?....I unhooked #2 wire, placed an old plug in it, grounded it, and 'POW', it fired hot. They're new Magnecore 8.5mm wires from LCE, too, ...but nevertheless, it arced well.

 

And, if the plug I had in #2 is firing the fuel when I moved it to #3 cyl., .....then I'd assume that plug is working.

 

All sounds good to me. I bet it runs perfect when you put it back together.

 

Ok, try this. Get it back together...start it. You should be able to feel the injectors firing if you hold a screwdriver to them. Soooo hold a screw driver to each one and see if you can feel it firing. Maybe it's clogged???

 

i'm hungry chef

 

^^ You're always hungry...

 

Hahaha, "EATIN TIME, EH?"

OK, guys, I'm going to try that, but I just noticed that it's leaking coolant pretty well, just from letting it run a minute to check the noid. Also, I really don't want to say this, but I think the lower intake manifold is leaking from the top, .....RIGHT OVER THE #2 CYL.!

I'm going to investigate more, but at this point, the front pipe that goes vertically up into the end of the intake(under the CSI time switch and behind a lil bit) is also leaking. Looks like I'm screwed on the 'having to tear it down again, guys'.....But first, I'm going to try and fire it up with the injector plugged in(clip off) and I've closed up the gap in that connector a lil bit, just for assurance of tight connection. However, if this lil pool of coolant above and behind the injector #2 is from a cracked intake or something.....that might explain why it wont fire in #2, right?

 

BTW, I just had a 1/4lb Nathans for lunch......with jalapeno's, hahaha. Oh well, what can I say, guys...i've done my best up to now, and I've hit, AS USUAL, the snags that most people WILL NEVER SEEN IN AN ENTIRE LIFETIME! So, this time, I'll put it back together with NO FLAWS, as best as possible, and with a new BVSV, ...think that's leaking a tiny bit as well.

 

Well this sucks Chef, sorry your having such a time with it, I'm sure it will be running great before you know it.

 

Thanks, Rob, ......do you think that an intake/coolant leak or crack in the intake could cause this? I'm not sure how, it never had a problem before, but it seems to be the issue at this point. I cannot see ANY POSSIBLE way that coolant could have gotten to the intake-top, right against the head. I'm already half way through the vacuum lines, and I've decided, ...it's time to tear it back down. Oh well, it happens, and I DID try my best to be thorough and specific with torque, products, etc. Pretty disheartening, but whatever, as long as I don't get this apart and find that I have BIGGER problems, like inner workings, ...then I'm ok. Just THE TIME, MAN....I've had no life for over a month, and now this? Again, .....whatchagonnado, eh?????

 

I really don't know how a coolant leak could stop that cylinder from firing, or how could the intake of cracked? It wasn't cracked before the rebuild so I'm lost. Do this though, since you are pulling it back apart, switch the #1 & #2 injectors & see if the problem follows that injector.

 

Hey Rob, I"m half apart already, and well, I'm thinking that I'm going to take the injector back in, since it's not far from here, and ask them to recheck it. Like I said, I Ohm checked it and it was 1.5-3.7, off and on...and 3.7, well, maybe it's just too much resistance? I don't friggen know at this point, lol.

The leaks? Well, I'm going to try and seal up that lower inlet(not the big pain that I had been dealing with....actually, this is ANOTHER ONE, the one right behind the CSI time switch, underneath, kind of an elbow?)....and it might be leaking cuz it was beadblasted? I have no idea. That PITA pipe?...well, that's just GOT to be some kind of wearing down thing, where in cleaning it I might have worn through a few rust spots? I'll have the intake tested for leaks(bad threads and cracks), I guess(is that possible?), ORRRR, I'll just order a new one in a few minutes for 80$ I mean, with more than one messed up threads, etc., ...is it worth it to try and tweak with it more?

I'm not sure if coolant is leaking past the intake gasket above the #2 injector, it might be pissing there from somewhere else.....But Rob, bottom line,....I can't drive down the road leaking coolant on a brand newly rebuilt semi-performance 22re, ya know? I am VERY anal when it comes to doing things "right, the first time", ...dad taught me that and POUNDED IT IN MY HEAD, LOL, and I just can't understand how so many STUPID LIL THINGS are causing me problems....but one good thing........I THINK.....it doesn't seem to be leaking any oil, and the clutch master, slave and kit seem to be working well. HAHAHAH!

Back at it, and THIS TIME, IT'LL ALL BE, as Goldmember said, "TOIGHT!" HAHAHA.