You guys have no idea how much of a relief it is to not have to ADD- "tear apart the harness", ....but SERIOUSLY.....GOOD LOOKING OUT! Had I never found this site, I'd NOT have had a clue in regards to "splices' and 'dices' and 'this trick and that'.....I mean it, THANK YOU, and especially for the "KEEP AT IT, YER ALMOST THERE!"

Now, to fix those leaks! My neighbor, who has some SERIOUSLY apt Toyota Tech friends, says that the flange on the wrap around pipe is most likely not flush with the intake, ....it's somehow been bent or warped, which means, "NO MATTER HOW MUCH RTV, etc., you put on that, you will NEVER seal it up right unless you file it down to plum". So, first thing, Have to pull the lower intake to JB Weld up the elbow pipe(if I can't get it out and seal it up) and then the BVSV and then THAT EVIL WRAP AROUND PIPE! I wonder, do you guys think I would just be better off buying a new pipe? It's 90$, yes, but to have it snug and plum and FORGET ABOUT IT FOR ANOTHER 23 YEARS??????, it might be worth it, no? I'll try to fix it, because I don't need to tear everything down to get it out,.....it's directly in the bottom, then behind the fuel filter, bolted to the head(OMGOSH, PITA TO THE MAXIMUS ARSIMUS!)

 

 

Well I "think" if you take the route 92 did and have the intake loose and then put the pip on and get it sung. Then attach the intake you might be alright.

 

haha nice!

and good luck chef, hopefully you get that rail cleaned out!!

 

LUMPY...my lower intake was on but not torqued...but it was as close to on as it got.


here's a thought....if we are set up the same, that little pipe goes from underside of the lower intake to the little hose coming down from inside the firewall......are you attached on the HOSE side already.....if so , unhook and allow yourself the wiggle room....much like the terrible time i had with the exhaust one to my REED valve...but i did not loosen anything up because of the gasket.

either that or , release it from the back of the head.....it may rattle but i'm sure you could do something about that.

what i'm saying is that if you start from the intake side, unless the flange is completely warped, you are wore that likely dealing with a bent pipe or something like that.

 

surely if you bolted the pipe to the intake first you would be ablr to tweak the little tab that bolts it to the back of the head.

 

You mean to get the pipe out? ....Or when putting one in?

 

When putting it back on, to help square it back up to the lower intake.

 

when putting it in ....

i would start at the intake side with the tube and then attach to the hose on the exhaust side...then if and when you could make yourself small enough to reach the tab / bolt on the back of the head i would put that bolt in....if you don't what's the worst that could happen.....rattling...eh...could figure out some way around that.

 

Reallllllllllllly poor design....there had to be SOMEWHERE else they could have bolted that mounting flange, NO????? Oh well, it is what it is, eh? lol. I think I'm gonna pull it and try to level it off, then maybe JB weld/kwik weld a smooth layer right up to the ring...then reuse the o-ring, because that's how it's supposedly best sealed. Also, for 92 and some others.....Toyota AND a Master Toyota/Lexus mechanic told me, 'please, PLEASE, do NOT use RTV on this pipe-to-intake connection, because that o-ring IS IT, and if it's not working, you'll spring a leak later, FOR SURE, because the flange is warped...


And,.........this traveling mechanic I know just called me, he's been really busy, ...but he said he's got a buddy with 100'S of 22re parts, and if he can find that pipe, and intake in good shape, he'll hook me up for 20$!!!!!!!!! Now, I would still have to get the elbow pipe out of the front of the bottom side of the intake, the one that feeds the timing cover connector and IACV, ya know? Otherwise, if it's in there, I'll still JB weld it.

ANDDDDDDDDDD, I figured out the intake leak. IT WAS THE ALLEN BOLT! When I went around, doing the pattern for torquing, I guess it loosened a lil bit and it came out by hand after 1/8th of a turn!!!!!!!!! Maybe 5lbs torque....SO THAT'S GOOD NEWS, really, meaning that my intake isn't leaking most likely. Either way, I'm pulling it, because I can't get to that pipe properly without removing the intake, nor can I get to that return hose elbow pipe on the bottom-front!

 

IT'S COMING ALONG, GUYS, AND ROB...........I PROMISE, If I can get it purring, YOU'LL HAVE YOUR VIDEO BEFORE FRIDAY, ....MAYBE BY TOMORROW!

 

Well, I got some time and came out to remove the intake and wrap around-intake water pipe. I cleaned up the pipe, most of the head surface and I'm having trouble getting the RTV off the intake side, where the gasket was against the manifold.

Still waiting for the mechanic guy to call me, to find out if I'll be getting a wrap around pipe and if I'll be using using a new intake or this one. MANNNNNNNNNNNN, I hate having to wait so often! lol.

I'm trying, guys, promise! lol

 

By the way, I figured out a way to get that mounting bolt back in on the back of the head fairly easily, so I wont have a problem getting one back on, whether it's a replacement or new or this one.

 

Well, I spent some time, tonight, cleaning off the RTV from the pipe, Lower intake to head, trying to figure out a way to seal up the CSI Time switch and that lower elbow pipe on the front of the intake/bottom, ......and to be honest, I'm concerned it's going to leak. I'm going to try to pressure test the pipe tomorrow and take the intake in for resurfacing,...just shave off a tiny bit, if I get advice as that it's a good idea......? lol.

Anyway, I'm really sore and tired and ANXIOUS, so I'm gonna crash. Hope to hear from y'all tomorrow, if you have any thoughts.

thanks again, guys,

Mark

 

Good deal Mark, probably not a bad idea to have the intake resurfaced as long as it isn't going to take forever to be done. I'll stay tuned, just keep up the good work.

 

ditto from me....i feel your frustration as I was very frequently frustrated and outright paralyzed so many times by it.

 

A long time mechanic I know said "I've NEVER had one of those intakes leak, from the head, ....musta just had a bolt improperly torqued. Get the new RTV from Toyota, just for the lower intake, you don't need any on the upper."

Another guy I know, who owns a Toyota/Lexus only shop, said "bring in the pipe and manifold and I'll tell you if it's junk or not.....maybe we can seal it up if it's level"....so I'm off. He recommended against resurfacing the intake, if I can help it, and said to bring it in and we'll check that, also. So, ...as I said, I'm off.

Thanks guys, good lookin out!

Mark

 

good luck chef......i'm hungry again....oh wait...i didn't eat yet...again!

 

EAT, JERRY, EAT! Hahahaha..........

Well, Japanese Truck Dismantlers had a PRISTINE wrap around pipe, for 20$! While I was there, I also grabbed a somewhat rusty but hopefully SEALING return pipe that bolts into the timing cover.

I have a problem, however, ......the wrap around pipe flange is not as thick as the original that's leaking......so the bolts bottom out before getting to the flange! Grrrrrr! So, instead of heading to toyota, or adding a couple washers, I found 2 studs from the Water pump pulley I have from replacing the water pump, .....they slipped right up in there! I'm planning on using those nut, along with lock washers(to keep the studs securely set), and HOPEFULLY, the pipe flange will slip over the studs without any problem, then I can spin on the nuts and lock washers, snug them down,.....and PRAY FOR NO LEAK! I JB Kwik Welded the threads and connection on the elbow, and used some Toyota RTV for the CSI Time switch and flange that bolts to the timing cover(return pipe). I'll be allowing it all to dry, overnight, and then HOPEFULLY, tomorrow, I'll close to ready.

SAY A PRAYER! Thanks,

Mark

 

Oh, also, he checked my Intake and found it was 'true'...so again, LET'S HOPE! LOL